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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2010, 12:11 PM
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condiments

Quote:
Originally Posted by ForceFed86
Well I don't have a heater core, but I'd sure like to not destroy the new radiator!
Thanks for the input. I installed brass plugs because that is what came in the rebuild kit. Some of the larger plugs were steel.
How about a dash of black pepper?

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Old 09-10-2010, 04:28 PM
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had a leak myself. I used teflon tape for pipe threads and had zero leaks. Try it on your current brass and see what happens.
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Old 09-10-2010, 06:12 PM
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I don't understand some of the answers to this post. A lot of us up here are wearing ForceFed86 out by telling him what he should of done and by telling the way that we put in freeze plugs. The guy has already put the freeze plugs in and the engine is in the car!

The way I see it ForceFed86, taking in to consideration the one freeze plug that you will have to remove and replace this is your options:
  • Leave them alone and they should quit leaking on their own.
  • Drain the antifreeze/water mixture and fill it up with just plain water and half a can of plano black pepper (believe it or not this will work).
  • If you have access to a shallow well that has a high content of iron water, fill the cooling system with it. Iron water will help to promote the natural sealing properties of brass.
  • As a last resort you will have to pull the engine and install the plugs with permatex.

I have used the Irontite ceramic coat sealer many times with great results. You put it in the cooling system following the directions, you run it a little while and then you completley drain the cooling system and let it set over night. I like to give it a little longer usually two days. It completly coats the inside of the cooling system and all of the excess is drained out.

Last edited by Chris Kemp; 09-10-2010 at 06:26 PM.
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Old 09-11-2010, 02:12 AM
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I think using black pepper is about the worst thing anyone could do. You are not making stew... or are you? The ONLY time I would ever even consider using pepper, is if that was all I could get ahold of and I was REALLY desperate- as in stranded at a roadside dive w/a leaky radiator or some such unlikely scenario. Next it'll be "crack an egg or two and drop it into the radiator! It'll seal right up!!"

The whole high iron content well water deal is pretty funny- considering the block is made of cast iron, do you really think there's a LACK of Fe in the coolant? Nevermind that there's nothing that iron in water will do to brass to cause it to do anything- including stop leaking. What, is it going to swell the brass? Or what? This does not make any sense, sorry.

There are products like Bar's on the market that work excellent, cost very little and are NOT harmful to the heater core, radiator or anything else- IF you simply follow the directions. The Bar's doesn't work until it hits air- as in escaping to the atmosphere from inside the pressurized cooling system of a vehicle.

The OP has already lost one plug into the water jacket. He has multiple plugs leaking. Either take a shot w/the Bar's, or PULL THE ENGINE AND FIX IT RIGHT!

EDIT- All the "ceramic" "sealers" are, is waterglass- the same stuff they poured into the crankcase of the cash for clunker cars. It will seal, but requires a clean surface to work best. If you want to well and truly plug up a radiator or heater core- use this stuff the wrong way... So, bottom line- follow the directions of whatever you use, IF you use anything in the first place.

Last edited by cobalt327; 09-11-2010 at 02:19 AM.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2010, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
I think using black pepper is about the worst thing anyone could do. You are not making stew... or are you? The ONLY time I would ever even consider using pepper, is if that was all I could get ahold of and I was REALLY desperate- as in stranded at a roadside dive w/a leaky radiator or some such unlikely scenario. Next it'll be "crack an egg or two and drop it into the radiator! It'll seal right up!!"

The whole high iron content well water deal is pretty funny- considering the block is made of cast iron, do you really think there's a LACK of Fe in the coolant? Nevermind that there's nothing that iron in water will do to brass to cause it to do anything- including stop leaking. What, is it going to swell the brass? Or what? This does not make any sense, sorry.

There are products like Bar's on the market that work excellent, cost very little and are NOT harmful to the heater core, radiator or anything else- IF you simply follow the directions. The Bar's doesn't work until it hits air- as in escaping to the atmosphere from inside the pressurized cooling system of a vehicle.

The OP has already lost one plug into the water jacket. He has multiple plugs leaking. Either take a shot w/the Bar's, or PULL THE ENGINE AND FIX IT RIGHT!

EDIT- All the "ceramic" "sealers" are, is waterglass- the same stuff they poured into the crankcase of the cash for clunker cars. It will seal, but requires a clean surface to work best. If you want to well and truly plug up a radiator or heater core- use this stuff the wrong way... So, bottom line- follow the directions of whatever you use, IF you use anything in the first place.
Barr's is definitely not the way to go on a late model cooling system. Pour that stuff out on the shop floor and look at it. Then try to clean it up. It's great stuff for old cooling systems and to help you get by, but I would not put it in a new engine. It has been known to reduce the flow capacity of radiators. Half a can of pepper in clear water would stop the leak and allow time for the natural sealing properties of brass to take place. Pepper will not hurt anything. And if you want to be a smart a s s and poach an egg in it, go ahead but you could do that in any radiator. If you don't believe me about the natural sealing properties of brass when mated to iron then just ask an old plumber. Can't be a young one cause all he knows is PVC.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2010, 08:54 AM
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Never heard of using eggs, huh?

Click THIS. The first result that popped up (of some 85,000 hits) said the following:

Quote:
Broken down on the road is not a good place to be. These handy hints will get you going again, at least as far as the radiator repair shop. While these fixes are but temporary, they might just get you out of a fix.

Steps
1 Locate steam from radiator indicating a pinhole or ruptured seam. You will need to watch this area to determine if leak has stopped.

2 Let the car engine cool off enough to take off the radiator cap otherwise you could be scalded by hot water or steam.

3 Pour one regular sized container of ground pepper in the radiator. The pepper will flow to the split or pinhole and will harden like a rock and plug the hole.

4 If the hole is a bit larger, an egg or two will also work to fix stop the leak. The egg will cook in the hot water and get forced into the hole by pressure. Pressure will work to your benefit in plugging the hole.

5 Remember to install the radiator cap so pressure will build and force the pepper or egg into the leak.
So your pepper is right there w/the "smart arse" egg.

Last edited by cobalt327; 09-11-2010 at 09:20 AM.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2010, 09:05 AM
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Bar's INFO- http://matrixsyntheticoils.com/store..._products.html

Says in part:
Quote:
Bar's Leaks is factory installed in 3 out of 4 new cars made in USA by such as General Motors, Ford, and Chrysler...
So, you might want to argue w/THEM, not me.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2010, 10:21 AM
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If it's a minor seep or two just a partial bottle of Bars leak will work just fine. As far as waiting for the iron/brass interaction - yep, it too will work. Eventually .

I often don't agree with Cobalt, but this time - I do. A small bottle will go into my '31s cooling system as soon as I put the anti freeze in - and the radiator, that's a brand new $550+ Walker, the heater, a brand new $200+ Vintage Air, and the engine, a brand new $3500+++ Ford crate engine. I've used Bars in everything I've owned when I change the antifreeze - and never ever a problem.

Other stuff - why change from something you know.

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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2010, 04:27 PM
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Emeryville <Did I spell that right?< Anyone old enough to know?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duntov
How about a dash of black pepper?
I know I said a dash of pepper before and it does work for a few days, but it's hard to get the smell out of it. I've done it in the past on the road. Back in Seventy and Seventy-One I drove big trucks for a freight contractor. We had a bunch of old Diamond Ts, B Macks, and old Emeryville tractors. They were all in the neighborhood of a million miles and as many of you know the vibration of all the heavy diesels in those days was not your friend. So the head mechanic had a big tin of black pepper in the chain box of every one of them. Said he wanted to save a road trip while not having anything permanent in the cooling system. My experience it is very temporary but the rust from the block IMO is what will seal your plugs anyway. Clean water in the cooling system for October will do the same thing.
We use either copper spray or catalyzed auto paint or Indian head. Not sealing a big hole; anything does it. Don't remember ever seeing one put in clean, that didn't seal itself up pretty quick anyway though. Might take a while with just antifreeze. So once you get your one plug back in you don't really have a problem either way.
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Old 09-14-2010, 02:10 PM
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Drove a new plug in with some sealer and went with some radiator sealer. So far so good. I broke in the cam for 30 mins or so this weekend and no leaks yet. Do you all think I should drain the radiator now? Or continue to run the sealer for a while?
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2010, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForceFed86
Drove a new plug in with some sealer and went with some radiator sealer. So far so good. I broke in the cam for 30 mins or so this weekend and no leaks yet. Do you all think I should drain the radiator now? Or continue to run the sealer for a while?
What do the instructions say? I think you're suppose to drain.
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Old 09-15-2010, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 Super Beetle
What do the instructions say? I think you're suppose to drain.
Instructions don't say a thing. So I'd assume this means you can leave it in. I was just curious iof anyone has any issues with it before.

Thanks!
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Old 09-15-2010, 01:01 PM
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Just leave it in there - which is what the OEM's do.

When you install new anti freeze, then you can remove it and/or install new.
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