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06-26-2012, 06:36 AM
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Engine has prob 45 min run time. And only drove it prob 5 miles. No tags no insurance. I have flat top srp pistons and dart pro 1 64cc heads. Should have around 10:1 compression some where around there.
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06-26-2012, 06:40 AM
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Oh yeah and to freshen it up I went they the whole motor all new bearings rings gasket oil pump. Everything new
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06-27-2012, 05:05 AM
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was it bored or honed or the bores checked for straightness?
what cam? ring sealing should improve with more miles.
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06-27-2012, 06:36 AM
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It was bored years ago. Has two sleeves in the block. Haven't had it checked for straightness since bored. It has a Lanati voodoo cam. 600 lift 110 love separation. Can't remember duration off top my head. My compression test I ran is all over the board. Goes from lowest cylinder being 110 and the highest being 145 and the rest inbetween. From what I hear there shouldn't b that much of a difference. And I checked my blow by. When I first crank it up it has no blow by. After it warms up it's has a little at idle but if raise the rpm to say 1500-2000 rpm there is no blow by. Im stumped. Maybe bad rings. Maybe worped cylinder. Idk. Besides it blowing the intake gasket it runs great in my opinion.
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06-27-2012, 10:58 AM
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383 manifold gasket
I have always used the cork gaskets at the front and rear of the intake. I use 3M Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive, 5 oz. Tube - Yellow to glue the gasket to the block and a thin layer of Permatex Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker between the gasket and manifold. Be sure and put a bead of Permatex at the gasket ends. I let it set about 24 hours. I always had problems with leaks when I used the rubber gaskets on the front and back.
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06-27-2012, 11:49 AM
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It's not just a leak it's literally blowing the gasket out the back of the intake. But if I had enought crank case pressure to blow it out I should have major blow by. But I don't. ??????????????????i just don't know
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06-27-2012, 12:46 PM
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manifold gasket
Clean everything again and set the intake manifold in place with no gasket. Check the gap in the front and back. The gap should be smaller than the thickness of the gaskets. Like I said I tried glue with the rubber gaskets and they would always slip back out. I would throw them away and use Permatex. Are you torquing the bolts in sequence? Do the bolts have flat washers installed with them? Also after warm up re-torque bolts again.
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06-27-2012, 01:00 PM
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I used permatex the last time and let it set for a day and a half. But I'm going to pull it apart again and see what happens. Yes I have bolts with washers. Wish me luck.
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06-27-2012, 02:53 PM
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The Right Stuff
The best trick i have for sealing the front and rear of the intake manifold is to use a spring loaded punch and punch about 100 or so holes throughout the length of the front and rear walls then use the Right Stuff (1/4" bead) and that seems to seal up the best and prevents blowouts. Good luck that is a weird issue.
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06-27-2012, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
120 to 145 is a big differance on a freshened eng a 20 percent difference isn't except able take a wet compression check and see if pressures increase and level out, my guess is your rings are shot. And the blow by is pushing your gasket out! Jester
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06-27-2012, 06:32 PM
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You're doing the compression test with the throttle blocked open, right? Just had to ask, it's about the only thing that hasn't been mentioned.
__________________
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. Midnight Sun Street Rod Association
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06-27-2012, 08:03 PM
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I've done the compression test both ways throttle opened and closed and came up with the same numbers. How do u do a wet compression test?? Never done that b4. But one of my buds just brought me a leak down tester. Should I do the leak down or wet test?? Which is better
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06-27-2012, 08:06 PM
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And the motor only has little blow by at idle none after I rev it up. And when I plug my PVC valve back in and leave my other hole in valve cover opened the PVC sucks it all up and I don't see any then. So I'm thinking if it's got enough blow by to push a gasket out then it should b pouring out the breather hole
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06-27-2012, 08:38 PM
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The wet test is squirting a couple shots of oil into the cylinder and take the test. I give a test 5 compression strokes, or until the needle stops climbing.
The throttle has to be at WOT for an accurate compression test.
__________________
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. Midnight Sun Street Rod Association
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06-27-2012, 08:46 PM
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This may be a dumb question but from researching does the motor need to b warm to perform a compressiontest???I've only done the compression test when my motor hasn't been running all day. I have custom exhaust bc I have this motor in a mustang and there's no way of running a compression test on my motor while hot unless I burn my wrists to blisters????FORD TOUGH WITH CHEVY STUFF
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