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Old 06-24-2005, 08:48 PM
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Fresh paint marred on side of boat

Hey got the boat painted the other day, had to put it back on the trailor.. I used a strap underneath the boat to pick up the front and wrapped towels around it to keep from messing up the fresh paint.. Well it did not work and it balled up the paint on the top edge of the boat and on the botom where the roller is at.. You can easily see it in the pics.. I have got to get this boat out of here this weekend... I am not a great blender, I always go the extra mile so that I dont cut clear in the middle of a panel... There is no way to fix this without painting the entire top edge and still having a tape line, so I am going to lightly sand the area and clear all around it... Normally I would search around and see what has already been posted, but due to serious time constratns I dont have the time... does that sound like a good way to try and fix it??

What will be the quickest way to fix these two area's??? I had thought about just masking around it a bit larger and then clearing, and wetsanding and try to buff, but thought it may stick out, but if I do a larger area will it do any better... Again I think in all the years I have painted I only blended clear on a panel once or twice and did not like it... I was not able to feather the edge in and make it disappear... The messed up paint is at least on the edge itself and above it.. Someone please help me here, I was thinking it would be better to wait until the morning and see if one of you guys who are good at blending clear could help me out on this one.. Like I said normally I would have painted a whole area but on this one there really is not a break point.. The other side of the boat is barely messed up in comparison to this spot and the top of the bow at the roller

Thanks boys

Matthew
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Old 06-24-2005, 09:05 PM
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the only way i know of is; to sand down the bad spot tack and spot it in ...but it could very much alligator on you i don't think you could polish it with compound. i know of painters that can do it but never done it myself.
is it in a very noticeable spot?

good luck

sr66
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Old 06-24-2005, 09:17 PM
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Yes it is very noticable, sticks out like a sore thumb on that paint... All the surface has been sanded and buffed back slick, now I have this rolled up clear on the top edge right where the "cockpit" is.. Compound wont work because it peeld back the clear but left the pearl underneath untouched... Quite amazing how it only affected the clear... I should have waited maybe a few more days and perhaps it would not have happened

Matthew
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Old 06-25-2005, 01:26 PM
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That really sucks Matt.......

Well I sometimes burn through an edge or corner with cutting/buffing.

I used to do a full panel clear repair, but I've gotten good at spot repairing with my air brush.

Sand the area smooth
clean
blend in the color with the airbrush.
one wet coat of clear with the airbrush right over the repair
flash
one more wet coat of clear slightly past the repair
Followed right after with reducer to melt the edge.

Since it's done with the airbrush it there is virtually no orange peel......and the repair is virtually unnoticeable.

The more I do this the better I"m getting at it........I don't do full panel clear repairs any more, this has saved me lots of time. The last 3 times were completely unnoticeable.
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Old 06-25-2005, 02:33 PM
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i knew some one would have a trick up the old sleeve thats good to know

next time you do a boat look into the gel coat ing i have no clue what it entails
but i do know one its hard it f***ing hard like throw your polishing wheel @ it hard
jab your wheel @ full speed on the edge and not do a thing to it
i always wanted to do a car with it but i dont know any thing about the process i figure it might crack let us know how you make out ok

sr66
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Old 06-25-2005, 08:47 PM
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Mathew, it looks like you've got a pretty large curl of clear on that spot, hopefully the clear is adhereing well to the base. If it were me I think I'd trim off the edge of the curled clear with a razorblade, mix up a minute amount of clear and then dab it in. Let her dry overnight then come back and sand it smooth, then load your airbrush or touch up gun and spot some clear on it and melt the overspray edge with blending solvent. If you try and sand it down like it is you may cut into the basecoat and make a bigger job of it. Hope you get it corrected. Bob
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Old 06-25-2005, 11:38 PM
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Well just when things were going ok, I get my shorts leg caught up in the throttle on the drivers side of the boat as I was exiting and damn if I did not fall out of the boat on my arse and with screw driver and rivet gun in hand... Oh yeah the screw driver and rivet gun added to the marks on the top rail... lol.. I stood up and knocked over my fresh glass of mountain dew I love this work... so rewarding and so easy to do

Here are a few more pics of my beautiful paint job that is becoming a mess!!! If I get this thing straight I will post up pics of the whole boat.. I did an overall including the engine

I think I need to attach bungee cords when ever I am off the ground.. seems like I lose my balance to much these days... Must be the Iso's

Hey Bob I dont have any blending agent.. isnt it just a super slow reducer?? Do you spary that over the area after your last coat of clear or does it mix in??

Matthew

BTW I was doing as most of you have said.. I sanded the area that was rolled up down and actually had to apply more base, intercoat with the pearl and then clear to get the effect.. It had a white edge around it that stood out and looked bad when I just tried to add clear over it... Thanks for the replies ya'll
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Old 06-26-2005, 12:49 AM
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Yes, that white edge after the clear is normal, but thats why you would go over it with reducer to "melt" the edge in.........or blending agent.

I had always done thise with medium reducer and works great.

Next time I have to do any thing like this I will take step by step pics.
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Old 06-26-2005, 07:31 AM
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You've got some good bodylines to work off of there, and all of the damage is on one plane, I would do a roll back with your tape off of one of the lower lines and keep your repair concentrated to the top area. Apply your color then clear out farther, then while the clear is still wet pull the tape off and mist some blending solvent on the clear edge to melt in the overspray. Regular reducer will work but blending solvent works much better- it is a hot solvent. I keep a gallon of Dupont Chroma blender on the shelf at all times, of all the blenders I've ever used Dupont's seems to work the best- haven't found a paint that this stuff couldn't level. When you are done spraying let the repair dry good before any rubbing/buffing. If there's any buffing needed sand the repair area lightly with 2000 and let it set open in the sun for awhile before buffing. Good luck, Is this a candy? Bob
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Old 06-26-2005, 04:21 PM
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Bob thanks for the advice, between you guys and the phone conversation from Barry this morning and Jim Clark who came over and helped me work on it tonight I think I am going to get it.. I had to put expoxy on the places because after I sanded down the area's and buffed it looked like crap and you could see it 10 feet away and I went all the way through to the original gelcoat/fiberglass.. This guy is super picky and I knew he would not pay me a cent until it was perfect in his eyes... so he wont know it ever happened.... I am going to take pictures every step of the way and maybe this will be a help to some others.. Jim brought over a quart of that Dupont blending agent you speak of and I am going to try it out when I get that far.. Right now the expoxy is drying and it started lifting too.. I guess all the chemicals underneath that are not dried or cured and I keep messing with it and adding more stuff all the time.. Its been an hour since I sprayed it, I have some lights on it now and hope in an hour from now I can sand it smooth or maybe add one more coat to cover it up. This is going to be an all nighter boys... I only have 3 days now to do 3 jobs soooo Matty is under the gun.. Here are some pics of it taped off ( to keep epoxy etc from getting all over everything else).... and some with the epoxy and if you look close you should be able to see where it is lifting on one picture... it looks like it has texture in the photo but is where it is lifting..
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Old 06-26-2005, 04:23 PM
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some more.. The last one is what it used to look like before all of my accidents


Bob it is not a candy, it is HOK Ice Pearl #Ipo5... it is small flakes and pearl mixed together I believe.. It is not hard to paint, but I am wondering how hard it is going to be to repair.. I just added a second coat of expoxy after sanding... the rolled up edges are coming through the epoxy and it feels smooth...I sanded until I hit old boat and sprayed more expoxy. No matter what the "crinkles in the old clear are showing through and I sanded the area with 400 allot.. It was smooth and down to the old boat the first time... I think I should have sprayed 2k instead it dries faster and fills much better too...
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Old 06-26-2005, 05:14 PM
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Allow me to point out to many of you as I go back and re read my post I am noticing that I am repeating myself in the same paragraph... It must be the sleep deprevation that this thing is causing me!!!!
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Old 06-26-2005, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BondoKing
Allow me to point out to many of you as I go back and re read my post I am noticing that I am repeating myself in the same paragraph... It must be the sleep deprevation that this thing is causing me!!!!
, Been There.

Epoxy takes a long time to dry and really doesn't offer much fill but will work as a good solvent barrier once it does set up. Using a urethane surfacer would have been faster. Whatever you do- make sure when you put the color on that it goes down in light thin coats with a lot of flash time between coats and also before putting your clear on. That fresh surface is going to be really suseptable to solvent penetration even with the green epoxy on it, this will make a wrinkling nightmare if you hammer the stuff on. Put a light coat on and cross your fingers for the next half hour or more, then another light coat till she's covered, wait, then blend your color out from the repair area. Let it set for awhile and apply the clear.
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Old 06-27-2005, 06:42 AM
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You sure are right Bob, after I sprayed the epoxy, I thought to myself I should have used a 2k and it would be done this morning.. but........ I called Barry and he said wait until this morning to let it set up good because I also hammered on a heavy coat.. just like we are not supposed to do... It sanded out nice this morning.. I am applying coats right now waiting for them to flash off... It should be done in a few hours.. Also you are dead on about it wanting to wrinkle everything you put on it.. That is really the primary reason I thought to use epoxy instead of reg primer, I was hoping to have it sealed up more in that area, I did not want this thing to set out in the sun ( and it does 24/7) shrink and ring around the repair area, not the clear but the repair area.. It will be worth waiting just to get it out of my shop... Me thinks I will never paint boats again Better change my business cards

Matthew
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Old 06-27-2005, 07:35 AM
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I bet your business card doesn't say Bondo King
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