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Old 08-13-2006, 02:13 AM
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Frigging Foiled By My Forpar!

Hey Guy's, I am kinda of a new guy, so to be Good, I will follow Doc's criteria for posting in this section.

* What Make Is the Vehicle?/ What Model Is The Vehicle?
* What is the Year of the Vehicle?
1957 Ford F-100 Custom Cab
What Engine Displacement is the Vehicle? HERE IS THE STRANGE PART Mopar RB Motor, 440 CuIn
* What type of Transmission Do you you have?
Autoflite 727
* What Is the EXACT nature of the problem? (include everything you have noted, even if you think it won't apply)
1. I re-routed the coil and ignition and starter wiring all to the passenger side fender panel. I then re-placed the Starter Solenoid, with a new Neihoff OEM model, and the coil with a Neihoff Coil. I then tried to start the truck, and all I get is a loud grinding clicking noise from the new neihoff starter solenoid

* Include Type Ignition, HEI or Electronic aftermarket, or Points type (if applicable)
I replaced the old points distributor with a new Mopar Performance Distributor electronic ignition conversion kit.

* Include things that may apply, (remote starter systems, Charging systems 1 or 3 wire or generator, Internal or external regulator, Computer controlled for both engine and Transmission or not, EFI, TBI, Multi-port induction systems, any Aftermarket ELECTRICAL components added.)
I am not sure how to answer this one, don't know the meaning of the terms

* Include any recent work that may have been performed Including wire changes or new harness's which may help to narrow the field down.

Did redo some of the wiring, but actually managed to turn the motor over after don't know what I did, must have been during the solenoid or coil change I mis-wired something. I will post pictures of everything tomorrow.


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Old 08-13-2006, 02:56 AM
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Doc here,

First as always, we assume the battery is good and full charge, and cables are clean and properly bonded, and you have a Proper ground buss system.

If not, Ground buss MUST be set up as such:

Run a properly gauged Ground cable from the battery to any handy bolt at or near the starter, From that same bolt get a Battery cable at the parts store, that has two 3/8 ring terminals on each end and attach it there and to the Frame.

Next get some 10 gauge wire and ring terminals and run that from your bolt on the block to the Firewall, and another to the Alternator bracket or mount bolt.

Next get some Wire Braid, (Radio Shack) and install braid from the radiator support to the frame, Fenderwells to frame , hood to firewall, Doors to door posts, gas flap to body, tailgate / Trunk to body.

At each point the wire is grounded, Burnish ALL the paint and grease off to bare metal. Use a proper star-washer and lock. Use sheetmetal or Tech screws where no screws are available.

It sounds like a lot of work, but after you assemble all the parts, it's only a few hours to do..and you'll end up with a system that will work reliably for many years to come..and can eliminate that from your troubleshooting list.

Be sure the Foot on the solenoid ( I assume you are using the Ford type solenoid..) Is grounded properly.

Check the "S" and "I" wires are NOT reversed..

If that does not solve the issue, have the solenoid checked at auto zombie or just replace it..and if it still persists, you may have a defective Bendix unit...

Oakland is my home town...Born and raised there...Great old town! Had some good times there..then again..that was 50's and 60's..A lot has changed.

just upside From the Caldecott!
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Old 08-15-2006, 08:03 PM
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Thanks Doc!

Thanks so much Doc, I am gonna send some pictures of the rats nest I have for an electrical system this coming weekend, your description of the the buss system sounds familier to what I have going on, my ground cable comes off the battery and goes right into the passenger side firewall. Then, from the Solenoid, a long ground cable goes under the block to the frame near the starter. Then from the wiring harness there is three cables that go to 1. the solenoid, 2. the alternator, 3. the coil fuse (actually I think the fuse this is for the mopar electronic conversion module).

I'll send you a map of pictures, its easier to understand than my babbling

thanks again man and let me know if I can buy you a thank you beer sometime since your right over the hill!

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