Front Brakes for 48 Olds - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2002, 06:47 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Pearblossom Ca.
Posts: 1
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post Front Brakes for 48 Olds

I'm looking for an economical way to install front disc brakes or even wider drum brakes,on the front of my 1948 Olds model 76,without the exspense of installing a front clip.I hav'nt found anything yet,and was hoping someone could help.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-14-2002, 01:36 AM
New Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Central California
Posts: 12
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

Go to pick-a-part, and get a Nova clip. They're very inexpensive. And all you gotta do is either fabricate your motormounts or buy some from an after market dealer.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 05-14-2002, 03:41 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Virginia
Posts: 1
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

Another possibility is "Master Power Brakes" (you can find them in Street Rodder or other good hotrod/streetrod magazines). They have kits for disc brake conversions and offer to make up kits for unusual applications.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 05-14-2002, 09:08 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: So. Ca.
Posts: 1
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

dburns , Ihave camero front clip (if) it will work for you , I'm sure the price is right, let
me know .
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 05-14-2002, 09:19 PM
New Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Lemont Ill.
Posts: 11
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

If you want to stay with the OEM underpinnings contact FatMan Products for a disc brake conversion set up. I was building a 52 Buick convert. a few years ago and they acctually gave me diagrams and specs to create my own caliper adapters and the specs on what needs to be machined on the spindles. I think they now have the caliper brakets available for the Buick and it may work on your Olds. I think you can still get king pin rebuild kits from your local NAPA store too. Did you see how they used to lower those cars? You make a deep pocket in the lower A arm for the coil to sit into. I saw it one time, and it worked nicely. Look around for different ideas, you might not have to cut up your original chassis to make a cool ride. Cutting in a Camero sub would work but I think it's more work than neccessary to get the results you want. You know, cars did drive safely on the highway at speeds in excess of 75 mph in 1948, without radial tires or disc brakes.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2011, 01:44 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Age: 65
Posts: 5
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
front brakes for 48 Olds

I've got a 48 Olds, 66, custom rod sedan with original brakes in front with a 12-bolt Chevy truck rear. I recently investigated changing to front disc with power booster brake master cylinder. Well, I found out if you go that route it's not cheap. Master Power Brakes will give you the complete kit for around $1300 if you send them your front spindles. They will machine disc brackets to fit your front spindles and will furnish all the parts for that amount. Then you have to build brackets for the booster, and maybe even have to change the pedal out. I've decided to just change the original master cylinder to a dual master cylinder, install residual valve, and be done with it. It's a lot cheaper and you don't have to modify too much to fit the master cylinder in place of the original master cylinder. Installing a power booster would entail a lot of fab work that is really not needed for good, safe brakes.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2011, 04:14 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: il
Posts: 150
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Front disc brackets are available from Scarebird for that year/model. I've bought them for some of my Pontiac stuff and would buy again if needed. Good quality stuff.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2011, 09:23 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Age: 65
Posts: 5
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Front Brakes for 48 Olds

I think when enhancing your car with such things as brakes, suspension, engine, rearend, etc., it's important to know the cost of these modifications, so it would be helpful to know when one changes things what you paid for these modifications. I would like to know.

I know when looking into changing my brakes for just the frontend, adding disc brakes would also require a power booster master cylinder, fabrication of brackets for this setup, adding a proportioning valve, residual pressure valves, replumbing the brakes lines, modifying the brake pedal, etc., which adds up really quick to the cost of such a modification.

I believe if your pockets aren't too deep that what would be the alternative to a disc brakes setup and make it just as safe is using the original brakes, upgrading the wheel cylinders, changing brake parts such as springs, shoes, etc., which are all available through aftermarket vendors, and buy a dual master cylinder to replace the single master cylinder. That way you don't have to do a lot of fabrication work and you still end up with safer brakes.

That's what I'm going to do with my ride and I will report back on what it took in cost, time, and fabrication to make this modification work for me.

I would like to hear from other members that have done modifications to their rides in the was of cost, time and fabrication also. It think it would help steer those that desire to do the same to their rides.

Don
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2011, 11:38 AM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: General Motors transmissions Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: near Yellowstone park
Posts: 4,458
Wiki Edits: 27

Thanks: 13
Thanked 284 Times in 264 Posts
check out other GM pieces.

usually you can adapt later family parts, Later olds that had the king pin suspension and bigger drum parts might fit.. and how much difference in your olds to 49 chevy style spindles that have a lot of disc kits available.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2011, 12:03 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 56
Posts: 13,433
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,566
Thanked 1,318 Times in 1,144 Posts
Read this thread on frame clips before you break out your torch. Grafted '03 frame to '37 Buick Frame

Do you REALLY need disc brakes? I have driven many, MANY miles without disc brakes. Do you really need them? Yes they are MUCH better than drum, but do you REALLY need MUCH better brakes? How do you plan on driving it?

A lot of people think that these old cars are just impossible to drive in todays world or something. I have seen what drum brakes lack, if you coming down a long windy road off a mountain, oh yes you see that disc brakes are a big improvement.

But me personally right now, I don't need the extra stopping power of disc in my daily driver. I don't plan on running it around an autocross course and I don't plan on pulling a trailer and I don't plan on running it over the near by mountain range. If I do one of those things I will do it conservatively and for that one trip over the mountain range I will put up with the drums and drive slower. I am not going to put discs on it for that one trip out of the other 365 days a year I am driving it where I don't need the discs.

Personally, drum brakes can do the job very well if you have them properly adjusted and maintained. If you let them go a little and the drums have been turned too thin and that sort of thing sure they suck. But if they are working properly, think of all those MILLIONS upon MILLIONS of cars that used them up until the late sixties when they started showing up on cars, did that stop those people from doing what they wanted to do?

Growing up we towed a two horse trailer all over the state with a 55 F-100 with drum brakes, we survived.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2011, 01:29 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Age: 65
Posts: 5
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Front brakes for 48 Olds

I'm with you on drum brakes. I think it's overkill for upgrading to disc, but that's just my opinion. A well-maintained drum brake system with dual master Cylinder, for safety's sake, is just as good as a disc/drum or disc/disc, with the only exception of getting your brakes wet, which discs are definitely what you would want. I never drive my vintage ride in wet conditions unless I'm just caught in it, and then they only become week if you are actually driving in deep water conditions. I'll be posting the progress on my dual master cylinder installation with photos as I can, giving every step of the way a post or two with photos and costs. Wish me luck.
Don
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2011, 07:36 PM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: General Motors transmissions Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: near Yellowstone park
Posts: 4,458
Wiki Edits: 27

Thanks: 13
Thanked 284 Times in 264 Posts
olds brakes

A few questions ? is yours the flat head six chassis and does it have smaller drums than later year V 8's. NAPA online didn't list brake parts when I searched older than 1970, You might be able to use larger backing plates, and brakes from later year gm cars that still used the king pin suspension or even chevy wagon rear 12" drums. I did a drum upgrade on my willys by using ford station wagon backing plates and redrilling mounting holes, willys hubs with longer studs and Ford drums, they had the same wheel bolt pattern. Some GM trucks used the 5 on 5 bolt patterns, I don't know if the fronts are drum or disc.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2011, 08:54 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Age: 65
Posts: 5
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Olds brakes

I've got the Model 66 with the flat six chassis, of course running a 305 GM V-8, 700 R4 tranny, and a '86 Chevy 12-bolt rear. I can get any Olds brake parts from Fusick Automotive as they deal in vintage Buick & Olds parts. I'm just going to replace the wheel cylinders all around, change out the other brake parts, springs, adjusters, etc., and install 10 lb. residual pressure valves along with a dual master cylinder. I'm going to get all of that installed and adjusted and see how well they work from there. I have no problem with the original front brakes as I have driven it this way for 13 years but I want to go with a dual master cylinder for safety's sake. The 10 lb. residual pressure valves will keep the wheel cylinders from bleeding out because of the master cylinder being below the wheel cylinders. That setup should work just fine.

Don
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:09 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.