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alignment
as long as the camber isn't way out of whack just set the toe. take a tape measure and measure at the back of the tires then on the front of the tires on the same ribe of each tire remeasure and adjust so that your numbers are the same that will get you close enough to drive the car to the shop.
jesse |
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Can't you loosen the two top bolts on the upper A-arm axle and slide them to let the wheels stand fairly vertical and the spindle axis is tilted back slightly at the top? Then adjust the tie rods so the tires are about 1/8" closer in the front than the back. This should keep you pretty much on the road 'til you get to the front end shop.
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Thanks for the replies. That is pretty much what I am thinking of doing, except I have one question. When you slide the upper A arm bolts to get the wheels to straighten up to say about a 90, and you do this with the front of the car up on stands, should you then adjust the A arms so the wheels turn in slighlty at the bottom. I am thinking you should compensate for the transfer of weight, or am I being to anal? It sounds like eyeball the camber and use a tape for toe in and drive it to the shop??????
Ron |
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Caster (tilt back of king pin) and toe-in (tires narrower in front thatn rear) are the most important items that will keep you on the road for 8 miles. Camber (angle of the wheels from vertical) has more bearing on tire wear which shouldn't be a problem in 8 miles. Yes, you are being anal!!
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