just finished my buddy's 46 chevy. we were having that problem to. the first thing we did was the spindles. but if you don't have to go to high to clear then you might want to just put adjustable shocks on the frontend. we installed some on the 46 and it gives us a 3" adjustment in either direction. when we show it we drop it down and we lift it to drive. hope this helps.

All good thoughts. But like somebody here said....the controling factor is the lower a-frames have to be level to the ground with the car completely together....ever nut bolt and ounce of fluid. Also as was said if you cut the coils only cut them a 1/2 a coil at a time and allways leave it a 1 to 2 inchs higher than you want. When it settles also realign it....I know its a pain in the *** but 1 inch of drop changeseverthing on a IFS. From toe to camber.

that may be true in most cases but you need to get the car to the ride hieght that you want. from there you can control the sai angles through your adjustments on your springs and shocks. we haven't had the first problem with the 46 nor my irocz. yes raising and lowering afect your alignment. the best way to adjust for that is to align the vehicle to the height that you want to drive it and only lower it to show it. lowering can be done at the preshow so the alignment won't be a factor. when the show is done you simply raise it to where it was. if this is done very often then the algnment will have to be adjusted more often.

that may be true in most cases but you need to get the car to the ride hieght that you want. from there you can control the sai angles through your adjustments on your springs and shocks. we haven't had the first problem with the 46 nor my irocz. yes raising and lowering afect your alignment. the best way to adjust for that is to align the vehicle to the height that you want to drive it and only lower it to show it. lowering can be done at the preshow so the alignment won't be a factor. when the show is done you simply raise it to where it was. if this is done very often then the algnment will have to be adjusted more often.

that may be true in most cases but you need to get the car to the ride hieght that you want. from there you can control the sai angles through your adjustments on your springs and shocks. we haven't had the first problem with the 46 nor my irocz. yes raising and lowering afect your alignment. the best way to adjust for that is to align the vehicle to the height that you want to drive it and only lower it to show it. lowering can be done at the preshow so the alignment won't be a factor. when the show is done you simply raise it to where it was. if this is done very often then the algnment will have to be adjusted more often.

I have a 39 Plymouth coupe with a stock (sheet metal type) 74 Pinto/Mustang 11 front end, drop spindles and airbags. I have come to the conclusion that the crossmember was welded to low on the rails causing the hats to be too low also. I can raise the front and lower it with the bags, but it starts to look like a "gasser" I am getting a new crossmember from Jim Weimer Inc. and I am going to grind off the stock front end and position the new one where it should be. I have heard about this problem from a lot of guys and it all boils down to the correct height of the installation.

I have a 36 sedan. I talked with Tom and streetrodengineering before I bought my suspension. (glad I did) His kit had channels that weld under the frame rails to lower the suspension/raise the car. This seems to be a common problem. Check out the photos on his site. http://www.streetrodengineering.com...dr/36%20ply.htm
I don't know a good answer after everything is installed. Wish I could be more help on this.

John

[QUOTE=johnhalabama]I have a 36 sedan. I talked with Tom and streetrodengineering before I bought my suspension. (glad I did) His kit had channels that weld under the frame rails to lower the suspension/raise the car. This seems to be a common problem. Check out the photos on his site. http://www.streetrodengineering.com...dr/36%20ply.htm


Adding a spacer between the upper and lower a-arms moves the control arm pivots farther apart. That changes the camber curve of the front suspension. When cornering you want the suspension on the outboard side to pull the tire/wheel negative. Pulling the tire negative increases traction on that, more loaded tire and increases cornering performance. I hope whomever did these mods tested for camber gain and bump steer. The upper arm in the photos appears to be parallel, or nearly so, with the lower. Typically, the upper a-arm is angled down laterally, toward the centerline of the car a few degrees.

If your suspension is installed too high in the chassis, there are only minor things you can try, like stiffer or taller springs (or both) to get it where you want it.

Instead of trying to level the lower a-arm. Set the front end to the height where the tie-rods are level. That will give you the most "balanced" steering. You will be in the middle of the bumpsteer arc that way.

You are correct, the top of the frame rails have to be cut also 4" up from the bottom of the channel (and capped so the top and bottom are parallel) or your camber will be out. I was fortunate to discuss all of this with Tom before I purchased a front end. He said a lot of people just buy kits and install them and with the upward bow in the frame rail where the axle is, this causes the car to sit too low to drive if not corrected. After installed it becomes an expensive problem to correct.

Thanks for the input and correction of the detail I left out.
John - Chesapeake, VA