front end "wobble" - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2014, 03:35 PM
31ROC's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 270
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
front end "wobble"

Cant figure this one out.....I get a front end "wobble" at same speed....front wheels/tires have been balanced twice and have come out perfect. I have the leaf spring front end...SuperSlide, and unisteer steering set-up. I installed a set of the little chrome shocks, thought it could be those? Almost feels like a motor vibration up thru the steering column, but after swapping with new motor, I get same thing....I doubted the driveshaft being out of balance, since I thought that would not affect front end wobble???
Could it be these shocks aren't strong enough to hold the car down to the road?
Front end/car only has but 3600 miles on it....

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2014, 04:25 PM
killeratrod's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,279
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 169
Thanked 416 Times in 372 Posts
have you hit any pot holes, bumps etc. i am thinking more like spindles , wheel bearings , rotors. have you gotten on it and maybe tweaked the frame.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2014, 04:30 PM
31ROC's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 270
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by killeratrod View Post
have you hit any pot holes, bumps etc. i am thinking more like spindles , wheel bearings , rotors. have you gotten on it and maybe tweaked the frame.
No hammering, as the new motor only has about 3 hrs on it, no potholes or bumps to speak of....maybe should pull the rotors and check for run-out? I suppose I could just change out the wheels bearings even though they have minimal miles....I feel it at about between 35-40 mph, maybe up to 45 mph, they seems to smooth out at a higher speed. One other thing, SEEMS as though it is amplified at those speeds when hitting a bump in the road?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2014, 05:35 PM
OneMoreTime's Avatar
Hotrodders.com moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Health and safety in the shop or garage
Last journal entry: Yard Dog pic
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Age: 69
Posts: 7,374
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 47
Thanked 151 Times in 143 Posts
How much castor are you running..?? we shoot for 5-7 degrees with those kind of front axles.. Since the car has all new parts that eliminates a lot of the culprits as shimmy typically shows up with worn steering parts..try about an 1/8 of toe as well..

Sam
__________________
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2014, 06:31 PM
31ROC's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 270
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime View Post
How much castor are you running..?? we shoot for 5-7 degrees with those kind of front axles.. Since the car has all new parts that eliminates a lot of the culprits as shimmy typically shows up with worn steering parts..try about an 1/8 of toe as well..

Sam
you may have something there.....I bought car as a roller, and have no clue if car is set up correctly. I did in the past ask around if anyone locally could do an alignment with no luck. I wouldn't know a thing about caster/camber or toe....is there something that could be done at home in the garage?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2014, 06:42 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: New Rev wheels and BFG KDW II tires
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2013
Location: South Central MN
Posts: 498
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 84
Thanked 106 Times in 99 Posts
Yes you can do it yourself at home. You just need a caster camber gauge. A few different companies make them at varying prices. Not super cheap but can easily pay for themselves after a couple uses.

It's best to have a turn plate to check the 20 degrees when you turn the wheels. They can be made fairly easy with a couple of steel or aluminum plates and some grease between the two to make them slide easily.

Caster / Camber Gauge w/ Magnetic Adapter

Instructions

Digital gauge.

http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...Level%E2%84%A2
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2014, 08:12 PM
OneMoreTime's Avatar
Hotrodders.com moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Health and safety in the shop or garage
Last journal entry: Yard Dog pic
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Age: 69
Posts: 7,374
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 47
Thanked 151 Times in 143 Posts
this is the one I have..... works for me

Economy Caster/Camber Gauge - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

Check and see if all the fasteners in the front end are tight and properly torqued.. If you did not build the car all that needs to be gone over to see that it is all good..

Sam
__________________
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2014, 04:24 AM
31ROC's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 270
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
I will check into this gage. All fasteners have been gone over and tightened and torqued.
Thanks
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2014, 12:16 PM
delawarebill's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: delaware
Posts: 1,271
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 16
Thanked 68 Times in 68 Posts
shimmy

also check the toe in.. about 1/8" with a drop axle. what kind of wheels u running. if they are weld's and have that loose spacer inside ????? if so u have 2 choices.. pull wheel & center all lug openings and use a split pin to keep floating center from moving then get them balanced.. drill small hole on back side and install split pin.. or pull rotors, attach wheel get the whole thing balanced.. mark a lug to put back on exactly how came off.. those floating centers are a major pain..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2014, 12:26 PM
techinspector1's Avatar
Senior Curmudgeon
 
Last wiki edit: DynoSim combinations Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hemet, California, USA
Age: 72
Posts: 12,947
Wiki Edits: 326

Thanks: 760
Thanked 1,013 Times in 849 Posts
Here's a pretty good article on straight axle frontends, should help those who are unfamiliar with them....
Solid-Axle Suspension - History & Technical Specs - Rod and Custom Magazine
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2014, 02:39 PM
31ROC's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 270
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by delawarebill View Post
also check the toe in.. about 1/8" with a drop axle. what kind of wheels u running. if they are weld's and have that loose spacer inside ????? if so u have 2 choices.. pull wheel & center all lug openings and use a split pin to keep floating center from moving then get them balanced.. drill small hole on back side and install split pin.. or pull rotors, attach wheel get the whole thing balanced.. mark a lug to put back on exactly how came off.. those floating centers are a major pain..
wheels are American Racing torq thrust style.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2014, 11:18 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boise Idaho
Posts: 44
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Wheels

What type of lug nuts? Are they tapered seats or the straight type with large washer?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2014, 03:26 AM
31ROC's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 270
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 38project View Post
What type of lug nuts? Are they tapered seats or the straight type with large washer?
tapered seats, but I has same issues with chrome reverse wheels,,,,
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2014, 09:19 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boise Idaho
Posts: 44
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
I have had this type of problem before. One of the things that I found very useful was put a sanding drum (coarse) in my drill motor and then jack up one wheel at a time and spin it with the sanding drum. This will show you any type of tire issue or mounting issue.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2014, 09:39 AM
31ROC's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 270
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 38project View Post
I have had this type of problem before. One of the things that I found very useful was put a sanding drum (coarse) in my drill motor and then jack up one wheel at a time and spin it with the sanding drum. This will show you any type of tire issue or mounting issue.
Kind of a neat idea....however, as I mentioned previously, I had same issue with other tires, and other wheels....
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Front end alignment: When is "close enough", enough? scrot Suspension - Brakes - Steering 4 08-29-2009 05:40 PM
"soft" front end oldguy829 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 9 12-19-2007 02:43 PM
89 Durango front-end "bounce" Roddin Rob Suspension - Brakes - Steering 3 07-10-2005 04:22 PM
"Serious Suspension" bolt on front end jayjayjamez Suspension - Brakes - Steering 6 09-01-2004 10:29 AM
"T" Bucket front end reclusej Suspension - Brakes - Steering 2 02-27-2002 05:06 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:09 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.