[edge]

No sooner than I convert my 94' Suburban to the TPI, my 4L60E gives up.

I put the new (re-manufactured) trans and converter in this past week. I filled it with fluid today and all seemed well. It went into reverse, drive and park very smoothly and there were no leaks. I let it warm up and got the fluid to the add cross hatch. Put it in reverse and soon saw a trail of fluid. Pulled it back to the garage and it was dumping fluid from the converter dust cover.

I know the converter was seated properly for it was able to free wheel and only had to be drawn up to the flex plate about 1/8", which was the same as the last transmission/converter.

I just pulled the trans back and removed the converter and I don't see any signs that the front seal is damaged (torn or the spring). What else should I be looking for? It only leaked when I moved the vehicle.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Ed

[Crosley]

you could have a seal problem,


the pump bushing may have moved into the seal causing a leak (un likely)..


The converter could have a crack at the hub , where the bolt pads are welded on , or in the main welded seam of the converter halves.

[tnsmith10]

atc has had problems in the past with the welds on the yoke on some converters leaking., either way, if its new, have them warranty and try again.
i agree with crosley,where the pump bushing goes on a 4L60E/700r4, it has a lip in the pump to seat the front bushing. if im not mistaken, it installs from the inside of the pump... so its not likely to come out...

[Chazmac]

Be sure to pry/push the converter all the way to the flywheel. If you use the converter bolts to pull the converter forward, the converter will pull the bushing forward when the engine is started, causing a leak. Not real common, but it will happen. Ask the shop you bought the trans from if it was dyno tested. Front seal leaks should be caught on any dyno test.

[edge]

The converter that came with the transmission was a re-manufactured Dayco unit. One of the three bolts must have been drilled and tapped at a slight angle, but the converter pulled up to the flexplate square and flush. I say this because it hand threaded half way with no problems, so I do not think I damaged the threads. The only problem was that the head only partially contacted the flexplate, but the converter tab was flush on the backside.



Although I may be wrong, I do not think that this contributed to the original leak because the converter "free-wheeled" and bolted up normally, except for one bolt that was slightly cocked.

I replaced the seal and converter (with a Carquest re-manufactured unit, since I had it out anyway), and gave it another try. But it still leaked when I put it in R or D.

The fellow who built the transmission for me decided to rebuild the core that I gave him. I put it in this weekend with the Carquest converter and so far so good, no leaks.

It appears that the pump housing must have had a hairline crack in it that the naked eye could not see. Ed