I vote with Deuce on this one..I think a fellow could make an IFS work fine on a fenderless 32 or with cycle fenders..once the regular fenders are installed and the upper A-arms are moved to clear the fenders then the handling goes out the window..

OMT

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If it don't work it ain't pretty!!!!

[QUOTE=Deuce
The Fat Man kit just adds about $650 to the price of doing a straight axle.....IMHO.....and actually stiffens the ride.......so I have heard. I can tell that it allows the front wheels NOT to be parallel to the ground .....unless the spring is just right and adjusted up/down correctly. The arc radius is half of what a twin I beam setup would be.

Make your own conclusions.......

[/QUOTE]

Does the Fat Man make a kit for the 31 Ford Model A? And where do I find the Fat Man? Thanks Deuce for the help.

Steve

http://www.fatmanfab.com/

If I was to go with the TCI set up, what steering gear would I use? And when you say Fat Man offers a kit, are you saying that FM offerers a straight axle or is it the MII kit.
Also as Cboy stated about the F-150 IFS, could I use a Ford Ranger twin I beam set up, I think it would be closer to the right width?

Again guy thanks for all the help, this is my first go round with a old car. Just want to do the job right the first time.

Steve

TCI and most of the other manufacturers recommend Vega steering ....or the older Mustang box ( mid 60's)




He makes both but is better known for his IFS Pinto/Mustang II kits. His split axle kit needs a straight axle and some fabricating to be done before it can be installed.



Straight axles come in different widths...TCI (and others) offers them in at least two widths. A 46" wide axle and a 48" wide axle........measured at the kingpins.
Cboy made his work BUT there is NO kits as far as I know. This would require considerable talent and skill to pull off correctly IMHO.




That is the great thing about this board.........rodders trying to help others rodders........I would consider going with a complete chassis..........if I could stand the $$$. Then you would have a basis to install your body that was built by someone who knew what they were doing. Model A aftermarket frames are inexpensive....add the cost of the parts, some labor and you are getting a deal..... Plus it adds value to the Model A when you get ready to sell it.

I bought a complete TCI stage III chassis ( for a 40 Ford coupe ) from TCI in 2000. It had everything, 9 inch rear, Stainless IFS, brake pedal, steering rack and all the brakes. Everything but the wheels/tires.

A chassis is like the foundation for a house.......it's pay me now OR pay me later. I choose to do it just once and do it with TCI.

Disclaimer.........this sounds like a TCI ad.........it is not. I have no financial interest or gain anything from TCI. I just have used their products for years and have never been disappointed with them.



DEUCE.....

__________________
I went to the school of hard knocks ...
where the tuition is high but the retention is exceptional !

The Ranger beams are shorter/narrower but personally, I don't like their looks. Ranger production began after Ford went to a somewhat different style of I-Beam which no longer looks like a traditional model A axle. The newer axles were no longer forged, they are quite a bit taller, and they also have a larger bend in them. I've never tried using a Ranger set up so don't know what other complications there might be but I think if you crawled under one and looked, you might not be too enthusiastic about what you see.

Steve,

Unless you wish to take a bunch of time and spend a good deal of cash to become a fabricator I would recommend that you just get one of the complete chassis kits from somewhere that fits your car..that saves a whole bunch of headache..and I think you would save a bunch of money as well..

Piecing and parting one of these things can get spendy..Now if one has the skills or really wants to learn then it is good to roll yer own so to speak..

Just another 2 cents..

OMT

__________________
If it don't work it ain't pretty!!!!

The man speaks the truth........



photo from the TCI web page.....


Your frame is almost 75 years old. It was designed for a whole whopping 40 horsepower. It needs boxing, and a bunch of welding. And then you end up with a bunch of stuff you do not need (stock axles, motor and transmission and ect ). Buy a good chassis and sell your stuff to a restorer.....

GO to the NATS in Louisville.
See 10,000 plus rods........check out ALL the new frames and parts available.....the trip will save you a LOT more money than IT COSTS.......and you can be better informed.......or confused...

__________________
I went to the school of hard knocks ...
where the tuition is high but the retention is exceptional !

Not sure where to put this so I'll give this a shot. I have been calling all morning trying to find lower shock bolts for a Mustang II suspension. No one seems to carry them. I tried using regular grade 8 bolts but one size leaves a little slop and the next size up won't go through. Do I have to go on-line to get these? And if so...what the heck did folks do before the internet?! Thanks

Barry

cornfieldcars...don't be so stupid. Go back and try your bolts again and see if you don't have one that will work. My guess is you're doing something dumb as you're always in a hurry and didn't check things out like you should have.

I suggest you talk to Posies. You'll like their straight axle and leaf setup. Smooooooth ride. And........ looks right.

No Excedrin or Tums here:
http://www.posiesrodsandcustoms.com..._slide_springs/


www.readershotrods.com drag cars/georges

I don't want any surprises when I install An IFS on my fat fender '48 Chebby so let me ask, which is the best? I have heard that TPI has a good set up but i don't know how it compares to the others. Since my frame supports an OEM bolt-in, is it OK to install a bolt-in IFS then spot weld the nuts to avoid loosening. What is the proper torque for these bolts. I am not a green horn as far as mechanic ability goes
BUT!!!, this is my first build so I need to hang onto the vine and ripen just a tad more.

Al

P.S. Is the IFS the same in a M2 and Cougar?

check with Heidts www.heidts.com you'll be happier

i used the heidts super ride for my 32 sedan ..i was going to use my factory 4bar and had a chance to talk to several street rodders around here and heidts had their vote ..it has coil overs with adjustable gas shocks ..they did have really good instructions with it and measurements to keep my 106 wheel base .. i used a posey leaf spring conversion on the rear so it was tricky getting everything right.. i wore out a tape measure...i did have to notch my front fender braces about 1/2 inch to clear the top a-arm nut .. this is a costly set up without a doubt.. about $2,400 when its said and done but i wanted to be able to run with or without fenders ...should be able to test it this week so i will post results

arnie

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