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Old 02-08-2006, 12:12 AM
Too Damn Slow
 
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front suspension rebuild questions

Sorry for asking. I'm a moron.

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Last edited by slow ride; 02-08-2006 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 02-08-2006, 05:19 AM
STUPID is as STUPID does...
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slow ride
After adding the big block and a full interior I've made the S-10 Blazer pretty freakin' portly. I'm adding some aluminum bits under the hood and doing a gut reduction, but I'm also thinking about rebuilding the 150,000+ mile front suspension and shaving a few pound while I'm at it.

For all of you hardcore "street" car guys...

What are you opinions on poly bushings vs. spherical rod ends for control arms? Will the ride quality be really ****ty? Will one bind more than the other? Are the rod ends worth the extra $100?? Or would delrin be a better upgrade for $75? I'm still debating the upcharge for Chrome moly tubing.
Rebuild your stock arms with stock rubber bushings. If you aren't into corner carving the ride harshness of poly will be a put off. DO NOT use sperical rod ends for a street driver. They will get mud and dirt in them and wear out quicker then you will believe. The harshness they induce into the suspension is okay for racing but not good for a street truck.

What is the consensus on how much more beneficial removing unsprung weight is vs sprung weight? I've read anywhere from 2:1 all the way up to 8:1
It depends on what you are planning for the truck... Reducing unsprung is good for cornering and suspension reaction. Reducing sprung weight helps everything.

Anyone have experience with QA1 Proma star 12 way single adjustable shocks?

Since I don't plan on ever "class" racing. What are the benefits to a coilover setup in the front, besides ride height adjustment?
It is possible to change spring weight and adjust ride height as yo said but a good coil spring will work fine for street use.

What about the Torrington thrust washer/needle bearing kit for height adjustment? Is it worth the extra $$$$?
Not if the truck sees any rain or mud. The bearings will quickly fill up with grit which will make them inoperable in a short time. These are good on race cars where quick adjustments need to be made but life on the streets will kill them.

Yes I will still be using the cast iron 2" drop spindles and stock type cast iron brake rotors, but with SSBC aluminum 2 piston calipers. My old 60' style 15 x 3.5" slotted mags will be on there at least one more season if I spend the cash on this suspension rebuild.

Opinions???
Do a stock rebuild. If you aren't planning to race the truck or see any real high performance driving it doesn't make sense to throw tons of money and race car parts at it. Clean and paint everything while you have it apart, put on some good shocks and poly sway bar bushings and have fun...
Mark
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Old 02-08-2006, 05:53 PM
Too Damn Slow
 
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The sway bar is long gone. The front doesn't rise much at the track as you can see. I was thinking an adjustable shock would help.

http://www.wirracing.com/photopost/d...C_0046_046.jpg
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Old 02-26-2006, 10:23 PM
Too Damn Slow
 
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Well I just ordered the QA1 coilovers and Global West upper and lower control arms. I also ordered the rest of the parts for the engine update. $2300 today plus the $1650 I already spent plus I still need my converter and master cylinder. I really blew the budget this year.
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