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Old 09-20-2005, 04:33 PM
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Fuel octain affects on smog testing

I've heard you always want to have premium fuel in your fuel tank when you go to smog your vehicle.

Will higher octain fuels help with emissions testing? I'm talking about the 101, 110, or 113 octain.

I've also heard that putting a little bit of alcohol in your tank will lower your emmisions (about 1 cup per tank of gas). A friend at a local dealership said this is how they get some used trade-ins to pass.

What do y'all think?

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Old 09-20-2005, 06:48 PM
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Higher oct will lower NOx but will increase HC (because it burns slower). The alcohol does 2 things to lower HC. 1) It burns cleaner than gas does 2) It takes more of it to reach a stoich. mixture so it will lean out the engine a bit.
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Old 09-20-2005, 06:59 PM
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High Octane

Doc here,

Higher octane fuel always helps..It burns better!

One thing it CAN do if you go too far the other way is raise operating temps which on the new Smog II are critical (Thermo / Vac sensors) that may trigger at the wrong time..( Range) While a "Slightly Hot" engine is preferred for testing..too warm is a curse too..

DO NOT add octane Boost under any circumstances..As it will turn your Plugs sooty BROWN..too, it will clog your O2 Sensors with the same junk...and trigger a "Check Engine Code"

It is rumored that (but I can't say for sure) that additives can be detected by the Sniffer, I'm not sure this is true , and probably is not..but why take a chance at a $100 a pull on the Dyno...??

The best course for Smog prep, is FULL tune up..plugs , Dizzy components, Induction system (varies depending on Carb or Fuel Infection<--misspell , but I like it so it stays..) Fuel filters, Air cleaner, PVC service, Wires, Vacuum Hoses, Vacuum Check, Sensor Check, EGR test (add full vacuum at idle and the engine Should die ..) Induction system tests for leaks (carb cleaner testing)

Check your static timing, must be RIGHT ON factory spec..(no fuge factor, or it's a fail..if it say's 12 degrees, it better be 12 degrees)

Set The curb idle, for spec..usually 750 Curb for MT, 950 for AT (look at your hood sticker) ..with no excursions farther then plus or minus 50 RPM (or the computer will abort the test..) and , as happened to me, may not be related to the engine at all...

Had a stuck heater switch (Corvette in avatar) That would "Cycle" and load the alternator causing rise and fall or the RPMS..had to disconnect the system in order to pass on my 13 th trip to the Referee as a GP.. $1300 in tests alone..not counting $50 pre~tests..

If your lucky enough to have a Hood diagram, Follow it out and Do your own visual..follow all the vacuum circuits out and be sure it matches the diagram on the hood..or you'll fail the visual..should be good if the system is unmolested..but always worth the check..

Change the oil and Filter..Dirty oil contributes to Hydrocarbons...

Get a NEW gas cap..especially if the old one is original..If these leak, you'll fail also..

Finally, on your way to your appointment, Take it up on the freeway and HAMMER it good..for several miles get all those op temps up!

When you get there...ALWAYS DO A PRE TEST first! sure it may cost you a few extra bucks..but if it's a GP you get a second Chance to fix the problem..

If your CAT (S) are good you should pass.....

DMV/BAR still monitors a pre inspection Does not count it against you...If you end up on a GP list..(as I did) you can spend many dollars ($6100) in my case..plus testing..to get it to pass..and (at least on mine) subsequent testing must be done at a referee station Only..(on my 2 nd test this month..both were Referee only testings Plus I was sent a notice to retest because my car was targeted as a major contributer to smog in the mid years..) California is targeting High performance cars....for random tests..

Since the onset of Smog II in California, Which now are at the very lowest end of Fed standards , plus having to pull a load while testing , Has the roughest standards in the country..Factory stock vehicles that passed prior, are not passing anymore..and the owners are wondering why..

Last year I was affiliated with a smog tech, and just for drill, monitored his smog sheet each week for a month..

On average 12 vehicles were tested per week..in the mid 90's to 00, previous passes , 7 were fails, of those 4 were HC , O2 related, of those 2 were GP's, 2 were Visual fails, and 1 abort.. 5 were passes with no repairs..

If the vehicle is new to you, And you want a smog testing history on it..you can go to BAR.gov (I think..been a while since I used it..) and type in your plate number or VIN and get a history of that vehicle smog tests..Comes in handy if your buying one too...

Good Luck!

Doc
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Old 09-20-2005, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docvette
If the vehicle is new to you, And you want a smog testing history on it..you can go to BAR.gov (I think..been a while since I used it..) and type in your plate number or VIN and get a history of that vehicle smog tests..Comes in handy if your buying one too...
Link:
http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/vehtests/pubtstqry.aspx
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Old 09-21-2005, 12:52 AM
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The vehicle I need to smog is my 76 K5 Blazer. I took all the smog stuff off after the last smog bacause it was supposed to go exempt this year. Well, California changed the law this year and now I have to smog it until 2011, when it is supposed to go to a rolling 30 year exemption. They'll probably bump it back again and I'll still be up a creek.

I also installed a little bigger cam (it's not smog legal but I think it may squeek by), edelbrock performer intake, Holley truck avenger carb, and headders.

I can get a shop to hook the stock manifolds to the flange for $160. So I can run the smog pump.

I can run an adapter to get the q-jet back on but I don't think the adapters are C.A.R.,B./S certified. And I'm afraid of how the carb will perform after sitting on the shelf for a while.

Put the old cam back in, I'd rather not.

Here's a cam comparo.:
crane's 206/218, .432/.459, 112* is smog legal
comp's 210/218, .447/.462, 111* is what I have

I have no idea what the specs are on the old cam. It's probably a stocker.

Do you think I'm pushing it with the cam?
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Old 09-21-2005, 04:06 AM
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Smog..long options

Doc here ,

That engine Isn't gonna squeak by...not at all...Not under the new Tougher Standards..

and there is talk of adding more for 06..such as bringing back the Vehicle inspections in conjunction with smog, AND an Exhaust limit (I think 120 db , not sure ) and NO Tampered with exhaust systems FOR ALL Motor vehicles, Motorcycles, Motorhomes, and Vessels..(yes..BOATS Too..) Which means NO HEADERS!

Should you make it past the visual, (which I doubt..) you will still have the Dyno to face.

You'll also need to replace the Cat...

According to stats I looked up for your truck..you'll need an A.I.R. system, which means ported Exhaust Manifolds must be put back on..and an EGR valve..

So if you did a custom Manifold you'll need to change that back to stock..

You'll need the Purge canister hooked back up...

And (which you shouldn't have disabled, since there good for non smoggers) The PCV system will have to be there..

I also think that Engine had an Exhaust divrter in the right manifold , not sure, kinda year dependent, to raise cold start temps in the engine faster and run more cleaner..

All your Thermo Vac switches will need to be reinstalled..

Also I believe you will need the stock air cleaner with the Vacuum operated heater doors and manifold heater hose and it's complimentary manifold piece..

If that Cam is real lopey,(and/Or won't run well at Factory Timing..) you'll not pass the excursion RPM test..the Smog computer will abort the test (jeeze..I JUST figured out why they do that in Smog II...Cams..DUH!!)

THEN>>>>You need to make it all Play to standards...which means more testing..

Jay Leno Introduced litigation last year when the BAR said they were dropping the rolling exemption and raising the bar on standards..Because 99% of his Collection would be affected in some way or another..That suit against the State is still in litigation..and will probably be there for years...

Personally, You would be farther Ahead to Buy a Passed, smogged engine and install it and get your tags..then swap it Back out for the next 2 years, and pickle the stocker for the next test...

I actually did this once 100 years ago for a different reason..had a 40 Ford set up for 283, and a 57 Chevy with a 283 that smoked so bad the CHP had to use the siren on a Saturday high noon because I couldn't see the cruiser's red lights..I'd swap the engine between the two cars when I wanted to drive them..Dumb kid that I was..I should have rebuilt the smoker..for the time I had in swaps..

There is a second alternative...And I avail myself to it .. I have a LEGAL business address in Sparks Nevada..and you'll need to prove that by Utility bill or rent/mortgage receipt etc..if you have to go to court in California..

Nevada has a Category for Exempt smog For "Street Rods" (the actual classification) 25 years or older..

The plate last time I registered was 36 bucks..

YOU MUST insure with a local Carrier/Broker within Nevada before they will take your application..Oh, and yeah the are computer linked to NDMV so if you let your policy go.. they know it in the field..via MDT or radio, they pull the plates and impound the car..unlike California..(just show your proof of insurance card, even slightly expired they cut you slack..) so you don't want to miss the renewal date if you plan to travel in that state..

You don't need to, but it's advisable to, get a Nevada Driver's license..(helps when, and you will frequently..get pulled over here..)

Some county's in Nevada are totally Exempt all together..

The Law here is Out of state Vehicles registered and operated in this state longer then 6 months MUST be registered here..So be prepared to be pulled over a lot...and you must prove residency to the court here that you live/work there..

Since My Vehicles are registered there and I reside here..The Vehicle is "company owned" personal transportation..Which makes it legal on the 6 month rule..

My Aircraft is based at Stead (Reno/Sparks Nevada) And the air worthiness Certificate is registered through my business address up there as Base of operation to avoid the local County Tax assessor, who walks the ramp here and takes down tail numbers..In California you get a tax from that county if they get your tail number, EVEN if your only tied down for the day...Sucks!

This is border line legal...right up to the line..but still legal and I offer it as an Idea..for you..I don't advocate it..I consider it self preservation in a sea of red tape..and high fees..


On your Smog stuff..I am not a smog guy..but gained most of what I know from the referee and the 13 trips I made there 2 years ago..and also from affiliation with a smog tech in business here.So It may not all be gospel , however I found about 90 % of what I was told was correct..

Just some food for thought..

Doc
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Old 09-21-2005, 01:04 PM
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This must be a Cali only thing, here in STL MO wehave emissions too- and I worked at a certified repair center, and there wasn't one car that we couldn't get passed. You can make damn near anything pass a sniff test- the other crap you can see on the OBDII's or on a visual test, but all you really need to worry about here if you ahve a pre '95 car is the sniffer. And I've driven some pretty worn out POS's through the sniffer and fast passed.
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Old 09-21-2005, 04:30 PM
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Emissions

Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72
This must be a Cali only thing, here in STL MO wehave emissions too- and I worked at a certified repair center, and there wasn't one car that we couldn't get passed. You can make damn near anything pass a sniff test- the other crap you can see on the OBDII's or on a visual test, but all you really need to worry about here if you ahve a pre '95 car is the sniffer. And I've driven some pretty worn out POS's through the sniffer and fast passed.
Doc here,

Yes, In fact it is...

California has the Most aggressive pollution standards in the country...ESPECIALLY in San Francisco and Los Angeles area...

They are at the very bottom end of the Federal standards (and in some cases, Are Specific To the State..(I.E. Calif. Only, All Exc Calif.. .. on parts..) and have little leeway between Pass and fail..

The Testing Procedure is such that not only do you have pass the lower standards, You MUST do it while pulling a load on a Dyno..at certain speeds, plus or minus a few..If fact, If the Tech exceeds the speed, or fails to meet the speeds on the Dyno ..The test will abort..

Very Few Speed parts are Allowed to be used UNLESS it has been approved for California Emissions by The State B.A.R.

Here is a Quote from the dca state Bar website...and I don't know if other states do it...but I have a pretty good idea why they do here..

Quote:
Some vehicles are exempt from the Smog Check program

Legislation enacted during 2004 made several changes in motor vehicle Smog Check exemptions that will become effective next year. Following is a summary of the revised exemptions and the effective date of each change:

Beginning January 1, 2005, vehicles 6 or less model-years old will be exempt from the biennial Smog Check inspection requirement. For vehicles with registration renewals due in the 2005 calendar year, this exemption includes model-years 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 and 2005.
The feeling here, and you couldn't prove or disprove it by me..but it makes sense.. is that In California, FACTORY Vehicles, Between 2 and 6 years old , and bone stock , unmolested, and still under warranty, Still can't pass the tougher standards here...making it a nightmare for dealer warranty...SO to keep the Auto manufactures happy, and Vehicles rolling into California....just exempt them for 6 years...

The laws Concerning Smog testing and Tech became so aggressive That Techs are afraid to make an Honest mistake much less than trying to fraud the test..The penalty's are so high the most include 4 digit fines, and REAL JAIL time..and they prosecute EVERY case they find..In fact they have monitors going around to check on the percentage of Pass/Fails in the area...If you exceed that percentage, Either way... They look at you REAL close...frauding the State or frauding the public...

When Smog Check II came into Effect in 2004 it required that EACH official testing station upgrade their equipment to the Dyno and new Software package..at $80.000 to $150,000 a pop, many testing facilities went under...not wanting to, or not being able to, afford the upgrade..making it very hard in Certain areas to EVEN get an appointment to get a smog check..like in S.F. area...most will tell ya..."Leave it here a few days or so, and well try to get at it.."Gone are the days of pop in get a check and pop out..

There is current legislation out there NOW for 06, that will toughen these standards even farther..some Including unmodified Exhaust systems..(If it ain't Factory stock, ..don't bother...you will fail) and a Db level of 120 Db or less for all Vehicles and boats..(except large trucks and Busses) and it's only going to get worse at least here..

Doc
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Old 09-21-2005, 09:39 PM
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Do any of you know how stringent the smog laws are in Souther Utah? My dad's in Utah.

Maybe I'll start a post and see if anybody has a junk (or just the tub) 73-75 Blazer/Jimmy that has a clean title or is non-oped.
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