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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2014, 09:05 PM
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use bigger diameter line. I use 1/2 inch. return line is good

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Old 08-13-2014, 09:12 PM
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Common problem on alot of vehicles is vapor lock usually caused by a faulty vented gas cap or blocked and/or poor functioning e-vap system. The vented gas cap is designed to vent small amounts of air into the car gas tank line. The vented gas cap has a one-way release valve that is pressure-activated. When the pressure reaches a certain point (defined by so many pounds per square inch) the valve opens by a very small amount, relieving some of the pressure. In this case, the pressure is formed on the outside of the tank, due to the vacuum formed from the displacement of fuel on the inside. After the pressure inside the line equalizes, the pressure valve closes. The valve is set to balance the pressure with the surrounding atmosphere. Air is allowed in, but no fumes are allowed out of the gas cap, because of environmental concerns.
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:28 PM
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pumpin

You can run both pumps together if you have a fuel pressure reg between the two of them.
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mud.man.rj View Post
You can run both pumps together if you have a fuel pressure reg between the two of them.
what will happen if I run the electric pump to the mechanical pump? I was told the Mechanical pump will act as a regulator
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:04 PM
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pumps..

Why hope for that and put all the load of an electric pump on the mechanical, what if it starts to leak thru one of the 2 diaphrams, one leaks out and one leaks into the engine into the oil, not worth trusting the secondary pump, run a pr reg, then forget about it.
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Old 08-13-2014, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
The Carter P4070 electric pump does the same job and does not need a regulator.
With it you can keep the mech pump or remove the mech pump for more consistant performance in hot weather.

On the mech pump the rubber joint connecting hose between the frame and pump, on the pump feed side is probabily collapsing/kinking under heat.

The P4070 needs no regulator and easily feeds this motor thru a 3/8" fuel line.

The Carter P4600HP pump will also feed this motor by itself, with a fuel pressure regulator at the carb.
You can remove the mech pump, either way.

If you get creative and correctly fabricate a rubber isolation mount these carter electric pumps they are pretty quiet.
I made sure that the rubber hose has no sharp bends and is wrapped in DEI Heat Sheaths, you think this Carter P4600HP electric fuel pump will feed my BBC 439, its only a street car Carter P4600HP and redline set at 6000 RPM

the pump came with some rubber bushings and installation kit to install, I had to buy separately was a Summit Racing Fuel Pump Relays #SUM-890023
I have read some stories lately of guy's forgetting to shut there electric pumps off once the car is shut down and destroying the engine from hydro lock, will Wiring the Relay to an ignition source prevent from forgetting that the pump is left on?
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Old 08-13-2014, 11:23 PM
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fuel problem

If I was going to use an electric fuel pump I would run a 100 micron filter leaving the tank and before the pump. See attachment for diagram of fuel system.
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Old 08-14-2014, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by cdminter59 View Post
If I was going to use an electric fuel pump I would run a 100 micron filter leaving the tank and before the pump. See attachment for diagram of fuel system.
so do I have to run a return line? I have a wix 10 micron filter would that work? and also a brand new sock on the pick up in the tank
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Old 08-14-2014, 12:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Why don't you flow test the system on the car and find out the flow volume for
yourself.
A good $10 paper element 3/8" in out common fuel filter is fine.

Two 110" holley needle seats are the same as a .156" flow test orifice (5/32")

the Carter electric pumps do not need a return line. The P4070 does not even need a regulator.
I appreciate all the help you guys have been giving me its frustrating figuring out this fuel issue, I have a brand new drivetrain and can't drive the car anywhere on a hot day

How can I do a flow test?

I'm running a Edelbrock 800CFM AVS carb

ok good to know about the return line
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Old 08-14-2014, 12:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
The edelbrock carb is fine. But needs a regulator when using a pump with 8psi. P4600HP.
Cut the pressure to 5.5psi. The Carter P4070 does not need a regulator atr all.
The text book eddy float height setting is a good start. You can +/- it a bit to find the best.
8psi is too much pressure 5.5psi is just right.

Eddy carbs like a wood carb heat spacer under the carb. Split divided if dual plane manifold.
since I have already have the carter P4600HP, I will use it, I do have a holley regulator


Is it possible that since I'm going to run the electric pump close to the tank and get rid of the Mechanical pump that the pressure will drop once the fuel gets to the carb and I will not need a regulator?
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
The pump does not need to hang down below the fuel tank. Level or slightly above the tank is fine.
take the sock off. The 3/8" inch paper element common fuel filter is fine.
Be sure the pick up tune is 3/8" and flair the end of it a bit, to max flow into the tube. Or slash cut the end.
Tube needs to be deep in the tank near the bottom of the tank but not right on the bottom or it will such up dirt.
I appreciate all the advice you are giving me, I will probably mount my fuel pump just above the pick up tube, here is the regulator I have its a Summit brand but says "Holley" right on it unit
will this reg work for me?

http://www.summitracing.com/dom/parts/sum-g3131-1
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2014, 07:56 AM
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Make sure you are not boiling fuel in the carb. I don't think anyone else has mentioned it but those liquid filled gauges are not dependable at all and tent to fail in a hot environment. I would first check at the carb inlet when you think you have no fuel pressure to see if there is fuel there. Edlebrocks are more temp sensitive to engine temperature and it is not unusual for them to boil fuel in the bowl.
before you go tearing everything apart, check the fuel pressure at the inlet when you gauge reads zero, I would be willing to bet there is pressure there. If so get or make a carb spacer/insulator and see if the issue goes away.

As a side note, if you are using the electric pump there is no reason to also push the fuel through a mechanical pump, eliminate it.
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Old 08-14-2014, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1981zapper View Post
I have the steel line coming out of the frame to fuel pump wrapped in DEI Heat Sheaths ( a few inches) and my line off the fuel pump to the carb is wrapped in the same DEI Heat Sheaths

I have a Brand New Carter Universal Rotary Vane Electric Fuel Pump #P4600HP 100GPH max 8 PSI, I was told I can run the Electric pump and Mechanical pump together and it will help with my issues what do you guy's think? I have also bought a Relay for it
You can run an eletric and mechanical pump if you use a regulator otherwise the presure will be more than the carb's bowl valves can shutoff against. The return type regulator is best as it keeps fuel flowing through the pumps and the lines keeping them cool. Especially good for an electric pump as it is kept from dead heading when fuel is not moving or moving slowly like at idle.

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Old 08-14-2014, 10:38 PM
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the best site found for efi was Kinsler fuel injection and down load the handbook .. and please do some reading a great deal of info there
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Old 08-15-2014, 09:01 AM
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I never run mechanical and electric pumps together. My buddy had his mechanical fail on his truck in a similar situation back in the late 70's, and it did fill his engine with gasoline! When he started having problems losing power, he pulled the dipstick and found it was a couple quarts high from the excess fuel mixed in!
Your Summit/Holley regulator will work great. I use them all the time. Just be sure to initially set it with the engine at idle, and then don't forget it and expect it to stay exactly where it initially was set. They seem to beak in or change a little from new, and I've always had to raise or lower the pressure setting after a little driving. Once they're in use for awhile they wont need anymore adjustments. But mount it away from any high heat source, or it will cook the regulator.
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