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Full Bare Metal Paint Job

7K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  Toolish 
#1 ·
Ok, I know this is a bit redundant and has been covered in parts before but just to get it clear in my own head I want to list the steps needed to take a panel from bare metal to finished product (painting with acrylic).

Assuming the car is back to metal using paint stripper:

Step 1: Use plenty of water to neutralise stripper
Step 2: Pull dents etc out
Step 3: Apply body filler to get dents fully smooth
Step 4: Sand filler back to smooth it out
Step 5: Apply primer surfacer to all surfaces and sand until smooth. Reapply and resand if needed.
Step 6: Paint Colour
Step 7: Paint Clear
Step 8: Buff it

I know I have missed stuff in here, but that is what I understand so far. Any additions welcome.

Also I have heard about seam sealer and sealer. What are these?

Finally, if I am doing body preparations at what stage is it safe to drive the car as far as paint work goes. Will driving the car when it is covered in primer hurt the end result etc?
 
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#2 ·
you got almost everything, after sanding the primer, wash the car well, let air dry, go around with an air gun that has a good filter and clean lines and blow out all the seams and anything thats not flat. next use a wax and grease remover - follow the directions, usually wipe on wipe off. the next step would be the sealer it goes in just before the paint. Its job is to seal any contaminants, incompatable body filler or old paint so that it doesn't bubble your new paint job.

hope this helps.

if you have any questions on sanding or buffing like what grit to use just ask. I worked in a shop that painted mostly high end street rods, and I messed up a few of them. my job was to prep and polish the cars. the most nervous I've ever been on the job is polishing the paint on an $80,000 car while the owner was standing over me watching.

Gary
 
#4 ·
forgot, its safe to drive the car during body work, and in primer but not after you've sanded the primer, unless your going to prime it again. Just remember primer doesn't seal the metal. It will start to rust through the primer after a couple weeks. and always wash the car well after driving and before any new body work or priming. I use the blue Dawn dish soap. this is what we used in the shop and I know there was a reason but can't remember.

Gary
 
#5 ·
Revised list

Step 1: Use plenty of water to neutralise stripper
Step 2: Pull dents etc out
Step 3: Apply body filler to get dents fully smooth
Step 4: Sand filler back to smooth it out
Step 5: Apply primer surfacer to all surfaces and sand until smooth. Reapply and resand if needed.

At this point the car can no longer be driven until finished

Step 6: Final primer coat and sand
Step 7: Blow car down, use wax and grease remover (would this also be where a tack cloth gets used?)
Step 8: Apply seam sealer and sealer
Step 9: Paint Colour
Step 10: Paint Clear
Step 11: Buff it

Does that look about right now?
 
#6 · (Edited)
looks good, you can drive the car until you sand the final primer. If you do the body work well you shouldn't have to prime again as long as you don't sand through the primer. I like epoxy primer because its extremely durable and you can do body work over it. buy a cheap spray gun for the primer. Before you sand the primer get some black spray paint and lighty mist the entire car, this is called a guide coat . when you start sanding it will help you see any low spots like bubbles in the paint. If you do end up sanding through the primer you should recoat that panel and sand again. The best way for a beginner to get quality body work is WITHOUT power tools. Use a wood planer to rough form the bondo just before it hardens completely, then sand with 80 grit, but don't go nuts or yo will end up sanding to far with finer grits just trying to get the 80 grit scratches out.

Gary

tack cloth after you blow dry but before wax and grease remover. use some quality paper towels or a lint free cloth for the wax and gease remover so you don't leave any thing behind. Make sure not to touch the car after this, be careful of hand placement when doing the roof and hood. any oil from your hands will cause the paint to bubble. Usually when you see paint flaking off a car its because of a bad prep job.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Primer First

Slickriffs just said exactly what I was going to write after reading top-down. I never apply filler directly to metal, there is no etching at work, and no metal-sealing either. Use a good epoxy primer/sealer, such as Dupont DTM (direct-to-metal). Some guys (including me) use POR15, which works pretty well when brushed-on, but expect nibs&specs in it (and the POR15 can't be sanded down).

Check out some of my other posts, you'll see the same questions answered.

-Kustomizer

Oh, and don't waste your money spraying a sealer-type of primer until the just-before-color coat. I don't know how well the rest of you have your first-attempt at leveling down-pat, but I still haven't mastered it after 20+years. I generally shoot 3-5 sandable primer coats before I even start to sand, and I guess I'd be close to 15-coats by the time I'm done. THEN, I seal it.

-Kustomizer
 
#9 ·
Hey all! I just stopped in to check out the suggestions. Kustomizer- The suggestions you gave me are coming along really well. I hope to be back into primer again soon. The rear apron is coming slow, but sure and I found a spot where there was some old plastic (not mine) that chipped off near the front fender...GRRRRR.

grind, sand, fill........repeat....
 
#10 ·
Revised list - take 2

Step 1: Use plenty of water to neutralise stripper
Step 2: Pull dents etc out
Step 3: apply epoxy primer/sealer
Step 4: Apply body filler to get dents fully smooth
Step 5: Sand filler back to smooth it out
Step 6: Apply primer surfacer to all surfaces (4-5 coats+) and sand until smooth. Reapply and resand if needed.

At this point the car can no longer be driven until finished

Step 6: Final primer coat and sand
Step 7: Blow car down,
Step 8: Tack cloth car
Step 9: wax and grease remover
Step 10: Apply seam sealer and sealer
Step 11: Paint Colour
Step 12: Paint Clear
Step 13: Buff it


I think this covers everything people have said in previous posts. I know a lot of this is repeated from other parts of the board etc. But this really helps to get it all clear in my head and will hopefully lead to a good result.

Thanks everyone for your help. Again, further comment is welcome.
 
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