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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2013, 11:23 AM
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Your Trans and rear axle are out of sync. If it IS an M21 and not an M20; you have a 2.20 1st gear. You should IDEALLY have a 4.11:1 rear gear; I would say for practicality, a 3.73 would be do-able.

If you have an M20; you are much closer with your 3.42; however you'd be better off still for a 3.73:1

However, having a soft 1st gear could possibly help you alleviate wheelspin.

The cheap way out is to buy a NEW M20 input and cluster and rebuild the gearbox.
Keep an eye on the cluster gear shaft, if it starts to weep oil out of the hole in the front of the case...you're going to have to replace the case.

Technically you're overpowered for a factory case and light duty gearset.
An M22W gearset, Supercase and Iron midplate would solve most of your problems. You'd be good with that combo into the 500ft pd range. Any more than that and you'll need an M23 gearbox or you'll have reliability issues

A 3rd option would be a 2.98 1st gear custom gearset for the Muncie. Again the 500ft pound rule applies. This would give you a much harder hitting 1st gear, and you can keep the 3.42s for 'economy'.

A lot of guys are running this combo or similar (2.98 M23Z with 3.31/3.42/3.08) and they're in the high 10s - low 11s for the drag guys and the street guys love it because it feels like they have 4.11/4.56/4.88s in 1st gear in an 85 pound package that fits like a glove

Oh...run your M21 with 1 quart of 75w90 NON synthetic (like Sta-Lube SL24229 from Napa). It'll run cooler and have less chance of pushing oil out the gland-nut on the input gear.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2013, 11:56 AM
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Is the camdegreed?
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Old 05-02-2013, 11:43 AM
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more cfm

thanks old bogie straight shooter as always,and thanks to everyone else .
I'm going to fully rework the heads look at my distributor set up and swap manifolds then go from there. I'shall keep you all posted in the comin weeks as to the results .
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Old 05-02-2013, 11:45 AM
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more cfm

The cam was installed straight up
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