Fuseable link on power block connector? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Electrical
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2011, 05:17 PM
sqzbox's Avatar
My pipes are my music
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: indiana
Age: 64
Posts: 2,938
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Fuseable link on power block connector?

Went out, got in my truck, turned the key and NOTHING! Everything that used switched power was dead. After 25 min of being PO'd shaking wires, tapping the solenoid, and probing the system with a continuity tester I found the fusible link to the power block on the firewall was cooked (the wire inside the insulation just before the fuse). This isn't the first time it's happened and the last time I replaced the link with the biggest one I could get my hands on at Napa but I think it was still under rated for the job as it didn't appear to be as large and I don't know exactly what the requirements are for the link.
My Q is does anybody know what size or where I can get the right replacement for it? It's a 76 3/4 ton chevy W/O air con. Right now I have it bypassed but I don't want to run it like this very long in case there is another problem and end up cooking the electrical system all together. Thanks.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2011, 07:19 PM
richard stewart 3rd's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: 351W rebuild
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: tremont, pa.
Age: 69
Posts: 2,217
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 15 Times in 14 Posts
Hi
The link is for circuit breakers, one is self resetting the other is manual. You'll need about a 40Amp one.
Rich
Looks like something is wrong with the link thing, I guess you'll need to copy & paste

http://www.delcity.net/store/Mid!Range-Circuit-Breakers/p_741291.a_1
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2011, 09:46 PM
sqzbox's Avatar
My pipes are my music
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: indiana
Age: 64
Posts: 2,938
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by richard stewart 3rd
Hi
The link is for circuit breakers, one is self resetting the other is manual. You'll need about a 40Amp one.
Rich
Looks like something is wrong with the link thing, I guess you'll need to copy & paste

http://www.delcity.net/store/Mid!Range-Circuit-Breakers/p_741291.a_1
The link is hot on the post notice, no problem.

I checked out the site and what it shows is nothing like what I have now.
The wire that goes from the starter solenoid to the connector on the firewall has an in line fuse link that looks like this thumbnail and is barrel shaped like a piece of tootsie roll with wire coming out of both ends. Would the breakers your talking about replace the link that's gone bad? This is not connected to the main fuse block but a separate block with another larger ga. wire on the same post. Thanks for the response.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	fuse link.jpg
Views:	56
Size:	1.4 KB
ID:	54348  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2011, 03:54 AM
EOD Guy's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 1,996
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 119 Times in 110 Posts
That looks like a diaode..... hear are the ones I normally use..

https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2011, 05:56 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 1,747
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 64 Times in 62 Posts
Just go to any auto parts store and look through the Help! or Dorman products they carry. You need a GM fusible link, and they should carry one in the store.

This should be the right fusible link for the 10 gauge main power wire.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/mobile/p-29087-85620.aspx

Bruce
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2011, 06:20 AM
Bryan59EC's Avatar
Car? Truck? Who Cares
 

Last journal entry: First week of December
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Age: 54
Posts: 2,329
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 14 Times in 12 Posts
Check carefully for any "HOT" wires going to the rear of the truck for trailer
or camper power.

I once bought a 78 K-10 for only $500 because a trailer wire shorted to the frame and blew that link----no outside visible evidence of a blown link.

The previous owner had spent a year, new alt, Battery, starter to no avail, and left the truck under a tree.

After I paid for it----found the issue----started it up and drove it onto the trailer.

Drove that truck 5 more years until my ex-girlfriend's daughter threw a rod
on the freeway.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2011, 06:56 AM
sqzbox's Avatar
My pipes are my music
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: indiana
Age: 64
Posts: 2,938
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 75gmck25
Just go to any auto parts store and look through the Help! or Dorman products they carry. You need a GM fusible link, and they should carry one in the store.

This should be the right fusible link for the 10 gauge main power wire.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/mobile/p-29087-85620.aspx

Bruce
Might give this a try. I got the last fuse link at Napa off the electrical turnstile
but it looked smaller than the stock one even though it was the highest rated. Can't remember the rating. All this happened after removing the pass. side valve cover to check head code. I didn't short anything but I did stress the wire loom a little that goes through the heat shield tube passed the headers which also houses the main power wire to the firewall from the starter and alt. When I found the problem and bypassed the link, I found the wire inside the insulation just before the fuse (aprox. 1 ") was in bad shape probably 1 or 2 strands left. I could have just finished it off before it broke on it's own by pulling on the wires a little. It seems that the wire gauge really wasn't heavy enough on the new link but that's all I had to work with at the time a little over a year ago. Thanx for all the help guys!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2011, 09:19 AM
richard stewart 3rd's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: 351W rebuild
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: tremont, pa.
Age: 69
Posts: 2,217
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 15 Times in 14 Posts
sqzbox
The mid range circuit breaker would replace the fusible link that you have now. (it's like going from screw in fuses to breakers in your home) If you use the manual one, & if it blows for some reason you just reset it instead of trying to replace a fusible link
while your out some evening w/wife or GF. Fusible links are horrible, but there cheep, that's why the factory uses them not because there good. I know guys that have all circuit breakers in their rides, tractor trailers have been using them for a long time also.
Rich
fusible links are color coded for there rated load. I don't know the color code, but the counter man/woman should
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2011, 12:34 PM
sqzbox's Avatar
My pipes are my music
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: indiana
Age: 64
Posts: 2,938
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by richard stewart 3rd
sqzbox
The mid range circuit breaker would replace the fusible link that you have now. (it's like going from screw in fuses to breakers in your home) If you use the manual one, & if it blows for some reason you just reset it instead of trying to replace a fusible link
while your out some evening w/wife or GF. Fusible links are horrible, but there cheep, that's why the factory uses them not because there good. I know guys that have all circuit breakers in their rides, tractor trailers have been using them for a long time also.
Rich
fusible links are color coded for there rated load. I don't know the color code, but the counter man/woman should
OK that answers that. Sounds like a good idea. I'm familiar with the manual breakers on semi's but after driving 29 yrs some info escapes me when I haven't had to use or reset them. I forgot.

No GF either, just same ol' wife going on 31 yrs. Think I'll keep her as she still has plenty of good miles left on her.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2011, 12:56 PM
richard stewart 3rd's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: 351W rebuild
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: tremont, pa.
Age: 69
Posts: 2,217
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 15 Times in 14 Posts
Congratulations on the longevity, she must be a wonderful woman to put up with the likes of a trucker/hot rodder.
Best of all to you both
Rich
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2011, 04:00 PM
EOD Guy's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 1,996
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 119 Times in 110 Posts
The auto circuit breakers are great no resetting!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Electrical posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Junction Block Connector for3300 Electrical 4 03-16-2010 10:11 PM
fuseable links on 68 cougar? cougar68302 Electrical 4 09-19-2005 09:02 PM
Big Block Power rehjr0219 Engine 4 01-30-2004 07:01 PM
4 link vs. triangulated 4 link. rear suspension bentwings Suspension - Brakes - Steering 4 11-23-2002 12:44 PM
Parallel 4 link or Triangulated 4 link rear ? RonWood Suspension - Brakes - Steering 1 11-13-2002 07:25 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:41 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.