g.m. LT1 '90s engine.. not the 70's - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-31-2012, 01:22 PM
stich626's Avatar
gearheadslife
 

Last journal entry: The TwoTonShu #10
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 372
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
g.m. LT1 '90s engine.. not the 70's

question of the day.. can the intake( efi) be used on a gen 1 smallblock.. and if so what heads.. standard 87 up heads that have the new intake bolt angle.. or the truck vortec heads with the nailhead like intake bolts
looking at adding efi to a gen one small block..
thanks..

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-31-2012, 01:42 PM
RippinRon's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Thornbury, Ontario
Age: 33
Posts: 948
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Its completley unique to itself and the coolant ports are not the same. The LT1 and LT4 were reversed cooled.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-31-2012, 02:01 PM
stich626's Avatar
gearheadslife
 

Last journal entry: The TwoTonShu #10
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 372
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
back to finding a tpi then..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 01-31-2012, 02:07 PM
lt1silverhawk's Avatar
"But how do it know?"
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto... Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lakewood, CA
Posts: 2,287
Wiki Edits: 132

Thanks: 101
Thanked 24 Times in 17 Posts
Give this a look-see: "Swapping a LT1 intake into a 1st Gen Small Block Chevy".
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 01-31-2012, 02:14 PM
RippinRon's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Thornbury, Ontario
Age: 33
Posts: 948
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
That's not even worth the effort with all the other efi intakes available.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 01-31-2012, 02:19 PM
stich626's Avatar
gearheadslife
 

Last journal entry: The TwoTonShu #10
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 372
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RippinRon
That's not even worth the effort with all the other efi intakes available.
how so.. aftermarker intakes and rails, etc are not cheap..
tpi.. is 100.00
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 01-31-2012, 03:38 PM
RippinRon's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Thornbury, Ontario
Age: 33
Posts: 948
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
I guess if you have a bridgeport and can tig aluminum well, then by all means. You have to locate and drill for the distributor, weld up the coolant passages, buy a remote t-stat housing, change the bolt pattern etc. Buy a stealth ram or single plane plain efi intake.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 01-31-2012, 03:44 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Age: 28
Posts: 8,673
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 16
Thanked 280 Times in 261 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RippinRon
I guess if you have a bridgeport and can tig aluminum well, then by all means. You have to locate and drill for the distributor, weld up the coolant passages, buy a remote t-stat housing, change the bolt pattern etc. Buy a stealth ram or single plane plain efi intake.
You don't need to weld coolant passages, you don't HAVE to run a dizzy, if you're going efi its a good time to go DIS, and if you're crafty you can make a remote thermostat housing.

Its not as easy as just opening a catalog and a checkbook, but it is a lot cheaper. I Also like the look of them, especially without a distributor.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2012, 05:04 AM
Buick Hybrid Guy.
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Indiana
Age: 42
Posts: 255
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
With all the LS1 stuff being cheap now it's not worth doing anything with TPI or LT1 anymore.
I found a 2004 LS1 engine for 175.00 on Craigs list. Repaired the broken rod due to stuck open injector at start up and freshend up the heads/2valves
and I'm rolling.
The LS1 engine is superior in every way to anything small or big block GM has ever made.
Make the switch and don't look back.
~Scott
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2012, 05:37 AM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: update
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: over here
Posts: 216
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by UR50SLO
With all the LS1 stuff being cheap now it's not worth doing anything with TPI or LT1 anymore.
I found a 2004 LS1 engine for 175.00 on Craigs list. Repaired the broken rod due to stuck open injector at start up and freshend up the heads/2valves
and I'm rolling.
The LS1 engine is superior in every way to anything small or big block GM has ever made.
Make the switch and don't look back.
~Scott
Where are you at? In Utah, good luck finding any truck 5.3 version for under $800. The LQ4 is up to $1400, and a real LS1 can't be had under $2k.
Then you have the problem of the oil pan. Good luck finding a used Ls1 Z28 pan for under $200. Then there's the Z28 damper, the Z28 water pump, the car intake, the matching fuel rails, the matching injectors, it gets costly fast.

Lots of threads on thirdgen.org about fitting the LT1 intake to Vortec heads, but why? Build it right, you can get just as much peak HP, with more average HP, with long-runner TPI. How about a TPI 350 with Vortec heads and a 210/220-114 500/510 cam doing 416 HP @ 5000, 396 @ 5500, and 386 at 6000, with torque of 487 @ 4000, and 430 at 2500? Or how about a TPI 383 with Extrude-Honed ZZ4 heads and a 212/218-110 487/495 cam doing 458 HP and 534 ft-lbs, with 450 ft-lbs through 5200, and 400 ft-lbs through 6000?
Average HP always beats peak HP, and Lingenfelter got famous proving it. It's all about how much torque you have at the rpm after the 1-2 upshift. That is why correctly-modified long-runner TPI always beats that ultra-short-runner crap.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2012, 06:32 AM
stich626's Avatar
gearheadslife
 

Last journal entry: The TwoTonShu #10
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 372
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by UR50SLO
With all the LS1 stuff being cheap now it's not worth doing anything with TPI or LT1 anymore.
I found a 2004 LS1 engine for 175.00 on Craigs list. Repaired the broken rod due to stuck open injector at start up and freshend up the heads/2valves
and I'm rolling.
The LS1 engine is superior in every way to anything small or big block GM has ever made.
Make the switch and don't look back.
~Scott
this, I'm sorry is just stupid.. maybe you just don't understand what I'm trying to do..
my 71 c-10 has a running but tired 350, that will get a g.m. 96-02 vortec crate.. that is still gen ! engine.. with vortec heads...
I plan on adding efi to that.. with a MSII controller..
the truck vortecs have central efi (tbi) that's no better than a q jet..
if I'm adding efi I want it to be mpi.. the tpi, adds torque, low and mid range.. great in a truck and street car.. the lt1 intake ups the rpm breathing.. while being cheap..
your idea of just go get an ls.. is a good one.. BUT,, also has issues..
they are not cheap.. junkyards with low mile engines, know what they have.. a 4.8 or 5.3 is 1000, with everything.. want the ecu add a few hundred..
and if I'm going ls.. it be the 6.2ltr.. good luck finding those under 2500.00 from a caddy... or more from a wrecked f body or vette..
yes you can get an lsIII 6.2 listed on c/l or e bay for 800 bucks.. but one problem..
I T S H O T !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
A junkyard you have a receipt.. the c/l ad. you have nothing.. any bill of sale will mean nothing as the cops, tow your whole rig away.. oh and they don't just pull the hot engine and hand you your vehicle back,, nope, kiss it bye bye..
now add the extra's the mounts/ brackets/ front dress, oil pan, headers,
the re-tune of the ecu.. to remove the vats system (anti theft) reset the speed sensor feeds to your tire size.. etc.. add 300-600.. the adapters to run the engine behind a non ls transmission..(add a few hundred here) new fuel system
it all adds up..
ya, Icould get a 5.3 with high miles that's as tired as my 350 cheap.. 600-700.. that needs a rebuild soon..
not worth it here.. when a 2000 crate engine will bolt in..
I have yet to see a LS install that listed every little cost it took to install it..
and legit part sources.. not I got it on c/l for 400.00 the ecu re-tuned by a buddy.. we just happened to have the front dress we needed over there and all the new connectors.. etc..

hardly a cheap swap

when and if I ever do an ls swap it be in a vehicle that it make sense to do so.. like my monte SS ..
my 71 c-10 a vortec headed 350 with tpi or the lt1 intake efi.. (both cheap) and a msII (250.00) will get me 350hp and low 20's mpg..
an ls install you're talking 4k when it's all said and done..
my tpi/lt1 efi can use the ford truck fuel pump that mounts to the frame rail.. something you can't do with the ls fuel pressure needs.. go price a efi fuel tank and pump..
and remember fab time cost money..

there is a reasoning to my thinking.. K.I.S.S.

Last edited by stich626; 02-01-2012 at 06:38 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2012, 06:55 AM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: update
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: over here
Posts: 216
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Now who's not being fair to the 5.3? Needing a rebuild soon? These dogs are good for at least 250,000 miles, some going well past 300,000, depending on how they're treated.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2012, 07:42 AM
stich626's Avatar
gearheadslife
 

Last journal entry: The TwoTonShu #10
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 372
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by whyholdback
Now who's not being fair to the 5.3? Needing a rebuild soon? These dogs are good for at least 250,000 miles, some going well past 300,000, depending on how they're treated.
um, buddy.. low miles junkyard engine is a 100k on these..
I've installed enough j/y ls engines .. the low miles ones are not cheap..

so I'll play.. I get a 120k-150k ls for the going rate(here within 300miles) of 1200.00 (Everything, harness and ecu)
that has parts that you'll be replacing soon.. water pump/alt/strter/camsensor/etc.. o2 sensors..
so I saved 200-300 buying a higher miles ls.. it'll bite me in the rear in parts that will fail and down time..

my post was fair and real world.. none of the items listed above are hard to replace.. but .it adds to the cost.. and have you priced a new truck alt..
I take these things into account..
they re great engines, that taken care of will go a long while.. but they still have parts that wear out.. and tho easy to replace are far from cheap..
I've done my homework on this.. and installed over 30 junkyard ls engines..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ford 70's 302 cam allclassicsbefore70 Engine 7 07-21-2011 06:59 PM
Help with CRS - Trying to Remember the '70's sparkydog General Rodding Tech 4 04-07-2010 08:02 PM
70's 454 or 80's 454???????? inquiring_mind2 Engine 2 11-26-2007 08:25 AM
Novice,..70's Engine turns over, won't start? dhomsey Electrical 15 08-04-2006 08:18 AM
Mid 70's 400 ci. Junk or not??? 70bird Engine 26 12-18-2005 10:37 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.