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Old 10-28-2010, 10:20 PM
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Garage door advise

I am building a 24X38 garage with a 3/12 roof pitch, 8 ft walls, on a concrete slab. I will be needing some garage doors soon. Wanted the 9 foot wide size.

Can anyone give me some advise on what the best door to use would be or one to stay away from?
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Old 10-28-2010, 10:30 PM
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It really does not matter much about the material of construction. If you are worried about someone breaking in they will get in no matter what. For ease of maintenance aluminum is hard to beat and they will not wear you or your garage door opener out. Get a decent security system if your worried about thievery. I went with Smith-Thompson, $16.95 a month and they haven't raised their rates in five years.

Vince
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Old 10-29-2010, 02:26 AM
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Personally I would go with 10 ft wide doors and at least 8 ft. tall, makes it a lot easier to drive through. You can see doors at Lowes, Home Depot and even Costco. If you can swing it get the insulated doors, they are much quieter and obviously don't transfer the hot sun into your garage. If you're going to get elec. door openers look at Liftmaster, they make a unit that sits on the wall and connects to the jackshaft. Its about the size of a loaf of bread and is VERY quiet.
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Old 10-29-2010, 07:43 AM
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If you put your doors on a side wall, take advantage of the ceiling slope and run your overhead tracking parallel to the roof line. Does not sound like much, but the extra clearance you get with the doors open will mean a lot when you have 8 ft walls. If you are placing your doors on the end wall(s), consider a 10X10 door in the middle.

Trees
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Old 10-29-2010, 08:04 AM
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Get the widest door, stick with a single door opening. Originally I was going to do the two door thing and it was suggested that a single door would make life much easier. An added beny one auto door opener and go with the screw drive.

I listened, thought about it and totally agree, getting rid of dead space in the center of the opening is the way to go.

The math; 24 wide you want 9 ft doors .. 18 - 24 = 6 ft of unusable access.
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Old 10-29-2010, 12:34 PM
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I would not do 8' doors, I have 2 8' doors and it is a real pain to get my 93" snowmobile trailer in the garage.
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Old 10-29-2010, 01:16 PM
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garage doors

Quote:
Originally Posted by HotRodMan
I am building a 24X38 garage with a 3/12 roof pitch, 8 ft walls, on a concrete slab. I will be needing some garage doors soon. Wanted the 9 foot wide size.

Can anyone give me some advise on what the best door to use would be or one to stay away from?
You must be planning on putting them on the end, with only 8' walls. I have a 30'X60' stick built garage and the doors are on the side, but I have 16' walls, as I couldn't come in from the end. I would put in no less than a 10'X10', and put it as far to one side as I could. But think about what you might want to put in there before you do anything. One of my Doors is 14'X15' that one is where I have my cars, and lift. On the other side it is 9'X10' because I have a upper floor in half of my shop. When my wife decided we needed a pontoon boat, after I sold my Ranger boat, I have to take the top off to get it in the shop. So you have to think about what you might want to bring in there not what you have now. Or what your wife might want. No matter how big you build them there not big enough, I have a 34'X36' on the house.

35terraplane
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Old 10-29-2010, 02:58 PM
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if your on a buget find out what your local home depot stocks.
anything else will be over priced.

the best will be insulated, also easy to add to the above mentioned hd door

if your a hotrodder (duh, your on this forum) think seriously of 9 or 10 ft walls.
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Old 10-29-2010, 04:32 PM
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Don't know if you have RAYNOR doors, but they are good quality.also at least 10' wide ! makes life alot easier .

dave
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Old 10-29-2010, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HotRodMan
I am building a 24X38 garage with a 3/12 roof pitch, 8 ft walls, on a concrete slab. I will be needing some garage doors soon. Wanted the 9 foot wide size.

Can anyone give me some advise on what the best door to use would be or one to stay away from?
The best advice I can give is to think about the size vehicles you'll be
driving in the garage, how often they'll be moved out, whether one will
need to be moved to get the other out, and so forth.....

Also think about the spacing needed to open car doors and the access
around the vehicles for maintanence. Again, this is to not have to move
the other vehicle.

If the doors are being placed on the 24' end, (non-loadbearing wall) then
the best solution would be to install two 9' wide doors. Definitely get the
insulated type. If you're in a rural area, you may need to add 1x2 strips
upright along the doors to keep small critters out. They'll be looking for
a home.....
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Old 10-29-2010, 11:08 PM
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I just replaced the garage doors on my house and garage. I did some research and talked to some people, so here's some things that I learned.

I got estimates from Costco, Home Depot and Lowes. All of them were higher priced than the garage door company I went with. In fact, Lowes garage door, uninstalled, cost more than what I paid for someone else to install it. I was shocked.

Standard sizes are a lot cheaper than special order sizes, so keep that in mind. My 10'x7' door was $150 cheaper than my 10'x7'6".

Windows at the top of the door are nice for some ambient lighting and don't pose any increased security threats.

I went with an insulated door with metal on the inside. There was about $100 difference between the non-insulated door and the top of the line insulated door. The single ply door will show up any dent you make from the inside and that alone was enough reason to get an insulated door since I have kids. There are typically three grades of door; non-insulated, insulated, and insulated with metal on the inside also. The insulated without metal will look like crap if anything bumps against it and you will have some orange insulation sticking out.

Insulated doors are quiet and if you get the nylon ball-bearing rollers, it's even more quiet.

I don't know how often you use your doors, but my detached garage hardly ever gets opened much because I don't drive my hot rod much. At the end of the bar that locks the garage door is a hole, so I just put a padlock through it to keep it from being opened. They could drive the truck through it I guess, but other than that they would need bolt cutters to get it out.

I also bought some security stickers (ADT) from Ebay for the door as a theft deterent to people that don't know that you also need a permit sticker.
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Old 10-30-2010, 12:52 PM
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Garage/Shop doors n' stuff

Depending on where in Alabama you live, Katrina may dictate what type of door(s) you get. I live in MS on the Gulf coast and the new building codes post Katrina are in effect. The new doors are stronger and will take more "stuff". Unless you plan on running into your doors, metal doors are fine and you can install weather stripping around the perimeter outside to seal them. Also an extra, buy fibergalss side doors. All steel core doors rust in a few years. I am a contract painter for 21 years with my own business. Also there is an insecticide attitive FOR paint you can use which will keep all your walls clear of insects forever! I use it and recommend it all the time. Sherwin Williams carries it: Bug Juice, is what it is called. It works. My metal double door works just fine in my shop. I used 6" wall studs and then insulated it good. It will stay cool or warm when I want it too. I have a window ac unit so I don't sweat when I work in the summer. Good luck.
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Old 11-02-2010, 08:26 PM
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if you can, get insulated doors!
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Old 11-27-2010, 02:39 AM
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buy the cheap doors and save your money. You'll need it in five years to replace the roof because the shingles didn't last. Not enough roof pitch.
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