This discussion has been added to the Garage - Tools Discussions category of the Hotrodders Knowledge Base.

Also added the article about building a temporary sandblasting booth to the Garage - Tools Articles category of the Hotrodders Knowledge Base. Thanks for posting the link wp442 .


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Look at a web site for a supply co. The company is call TEK supply. They have all kinds of things but for this topic look at the synthetic wall coverings they have for the walls of dairy milk parlors. It's some type of synthetic that comes in different sizes and thicknesses. It is almost like dealing with a teflon surface. I've not found anything that won't wash off. I walled my booth with it and used it to reroof my motorhome. I think it comes in thicknesses from an 1/8th inch and thicker and I think up to 10 foot lengths and over 4 feet wide. The stuff is called PolyMax it comes in white. That makes it easier to light the booth. They also handle the vent fans. the web site is www.teksupply.com.

hey do you have to have vent fans in the paint boot??? cause i have a grage that i was going to paint my truck in but if i have to have all that idk it might be best having somebody paint my truck with the right paint room??? what should i do???

I painted my truck in the garage with no plastic. Of course the garage was scrubbed clean numerous times before painting. I used furnace filters in the windows. Then I had a plywood panel same height as a furbace blower. The blower was put under the door and the gap filled with the plywood panel. Next everything was sealed. IF YOU DO NOT DO THIS you will end up with dirt in the paint. The door at the sides, at the plywood panel, and particularly at the top of the garage door was sealed with 6" masking paper. If not the overspray will blow back in the top of the door as a dry powder. The only thing I had get into the paint was a very small moth or miller that wanted to try and do the backstroke. But that was taken care of and the paint turned out as good as any paintshop around here can do with a booth.

Kevin

Luckydevil
Check out my photo album for pics of my homemade booth made on a 10X20 frame. Roll plastic works OK for one vehicle but the overspray will flake off and become a major problem. I would make a wood frame and staple the plastic to the inside using duct tape for the seams and replace it after each paint job. Hang your light fixtures on hooks makes them easy to take down. Use daylight tubes , not the cool white tubes in the fixtures. You will need to clean the light fixtures periodically because the overspray is attracted to them for some reason. The plastic sold for masking by your body shop supplier is made for this purpose and the paint will stick just like it will on masking paper. Been there and done that, trying to go cheap.

FordSR, Your advice is good but he asked that question nearly 3 years ago! This is what happens when someone digs up these old threads (I know it was'nt you) and I had typed out a reply myself before I noticed the date

Pat63, you have a legit question there but you really should have started a new thread.

I heard of a guy that used the frame from his Easy-up awning for a paint booth frame work. Didn't have to build anything and just added the plastic wrap and threw the plastic away when done.

That's pretty much what I did here.



This one was a two bay wide booth with plastic top, sides and ends. even built a door in the back. Had three fans (with filters) blowing in and one (with a filter) blowing out so it was a positive pressure booth.

Here's the finished product.

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Paint booth smaint booth! I painted my Camaro in my driveway.... right where it is in the pics. If you pick the right day (a calm hot summer day) the results can be more that satisfactory. I dont recommend this for show cars, but for a daily driver... GO FOR IT!


Have a look..

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c...icture006-1.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c...icture007_3.jpg

It is important to remember that the first function of a spray booth is to remove the overspray to prevent the formation of a combustible or explosive environment. You should really be doing a minimum of two air exchanges per minute. Thus, if your booth is 9x20x8, or 1440 cubic feet, you need to move at least 2880 CFM. Box fans are often used in homemade booths but should be considered inadequate, as they are intended to operate in a 0 static pressure environment. Curved blade fans, or squirrel cages, offer the best alternative as they can be operated over a large range of speeds and static pressures.
The key to designing a good homemade booth is to determine the airflow you require, as described above, and then build the fan and filter system to produce that flow. Filters, even light ones, greatly increase static pressure, or restrict air flow. When static pressure rises, air volume decreases. As air volume (hence mass) decreases the load on the fan motor decreases. This effect will allow you, with the help of an ammeter, to roughly determine the amount of air your fan and filter system is moving. Broadly, in the range of static pressures typically found in homemade booths, 1 horsepower will move about 1800 CFM. If you need to move3600 CFM, then a two horsepower motor should suffice. Use your ammeter to check the actual amp draw of the motor, and compare that to the Full Load Amp rating of the motor (usually listed on the motor id tag as FLA) If the motor is drawing its full load amps, then it is producing full horsepower. If the amps are low, put a larger sheave (or pulley) on the motor. Be sure to test the motors only with all filters in place, and the booth running as though you were painting.
You will need two different filter areas for your booth. First is the intake filter area. These filters provide clean air inside the booth. If you are using furnace filters, you should have 1500 square inches of filter per 1000 CFM minimum. The second set of filters are the paint arrestors. Use fiberglass filters if at all possible, as they last longer are less likely to spontaneously ignite. Use 1000 square inches per 1000 CFM. You can never have too much filter area, by the way.
If possible, use a rigid sided booth, say drywall as opposed to plastic, unless you build a positive pressure booth. The plastic creates turbulence as it flaps and shakes with the air. For the highest quality paint job, you want to maintain laminar flow throughout the spray area.
One final thought. Positive pressure booths, which have an intake fan to force air in, and then an exhaust fan to pull a little less air out are the best booths. You must balance the fans to produce a positive pressure of no more than .3 in. w.c., but that is easily done with dampers, or with the size sheaves you put on the motors. Positive pressure lessens the need to get all psychotic about sealing your doors, as you can not suck trash in from your shop. (Your a G.I., think of NBC clean rooms, or clearing your gas mask)
Hope I helped. Feel free to ask for clarification

Thanks for the input. It cleared up quite a few issues.
I'm thinking of building a temporary/reusable positive pressure booth for my new ToyRoom.