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-   -   Garage paint job (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/garage-paint-job-32808.html)

deuce_454 01-25-2004 05:48 AM

First paint job......... HELP
 
I know some of this info is in the Knowledge base, but i really would like some help from you guys on this issue. I have checked around most of the paint shops around here (in Denmark) and a complete once over repaint costs about 12000 danish kroners (about 2000 US $) and a little more if you want a colour change and metallic paint.

there is no way i am paying that for a paintjob, unless its absolutely the only way! I would like to paint my 32 ford hot rod my self (metallic green with pear-essence and clear) but i am not a very accomplished painter :drunk: (ive never paintet anything larger than an engine) I have plenty of room in my shop, even to make a makeshift paintbooth. there is drain in the floor so i can wet the floor down to avoid dust, and my compressor is 4Hp and has a 50 gallon tank (i bought it used) and is oil free

now i have done some bodywork on my daily driver (a diesel 2wd toyota PU, (wow!!)) and i figured i could practice painting that before i f#cked up my hot rod... The local paint suppleir can set me up with PU based paint, low bake hardner and low temp thinner. and s component base, and silicone remover.

i just have no idea how to do it....

do i sand the entire car first (and if so wont it show through the paint??) do i paint wet in wet, or wait for it to dry. and how long between coats?? what paints are easiest to work with? what air pressure do i use. is a 60$ paint gun good enough?? how do i prevent solvent pop?

The pickup is white and has blue interior, what colour is best to apply for learning purposes (it will be the only practice ill get before doint the hot rod)

please, any help will be much appreshiated

joe k 01-25-2004 08:03 AM

Try posting your question on "autobodystore.com" They have a great bulletin board,and had all the answers for me when I painted the first time.Your paint store should be able to answer most questions on the product you select and make sure they give you a data sheet from the paint manufacturer,it will tell you how to mix,number of coats and drying time. Good luck!

shavedaccord 01-25-2004 02:26 PM

hey deuce, email me at montecar32@hotmail.com, ill give yo some advice trial and error, and tell you what u need to do.

TurboS10 01-25-2004 05:34 PM

Deuce,

I would suggest you start off with a good book on painting. I got started that way. There is alot of info in the knowledge base as well on different phases.

Put short, you can and should practice on something first. As long as the paint on the truck is original, you should be able to recoat it. I would suggest using a sealer after you finish with the body work. The sealer will isolate the old paint and body work from the new paint. It will give you a good foundation to lay down the top coat on.

I would suggest using Base Coat/Clear Coat. It is much easier and much more forgiving. The dry times and coat recommendations are on the product data sheets.

Just post on here with all your questions as you work through it and I am sure you will be lead down the straight and narrow.

I have a pic in my album of the make shift booth I used for painting the S-10. It worked very well and cost less than $100usd for the attic fan, plastic, clamps and filter material.

Later,

Chris

deuce_454 01-26-2004 02:46 AM

thanks for the replys, ill try and paint some of the left over bodypanels from my mustang, (paddock sent me two left rear quarterpanels, so i have one left to play with) but since my pickup will rust again if i dont paint the primered areas ill have to take the plunge and paint it.

thanx turboS10 ill copy your paintbooth, btw, if the fan sucks air out of the "booth" wont the plastic eventually stick to the freshly painted truck??

TurboS10 01-26-2004 04:54 AM

I anchored the plastic to the floor with some scrap steel I had laying around. The fan pulls air in the filter at the top front and out the bottom of the big door. It does pull the walls of the plastic in just a little, but worked very well. I had no trash to speak of in the paint, and the booth would clear completely of spray in under a minute.

Chris

deuce_454 01-26-2004 05:28 AM

i have an oil furnace that blows hot air through 6 inch ducts(approx 100 deg F) for heating the shop. would blowing through a filter into the booth and having "pressure" blow fumes out the other end be better?? I ask because the blower is there and i do not have an attic fan..

BTW, i love the paint on your S10. how many cars have you painted before tackling your trucks awesome paint job?

TurboS10 01-26-2004 01:48 PM

Well, you are going to make my head grow with those compliments. Actually, I had done one complete job which was a HUGE mess when my wife traded it off. She let me practice on an old car she had when we got married and it taught me the Acrylic Enamel SUCKS. It was an embarrassment to say the least. After that, I did three partial recoates for family and friend with BC/CC and fell in love. It was so easy. I can not tell you how much easier it is. I also did alot of reading after my first failed attempt to figure out what went wrong. That is why I suggested you do a complete recoat before tackling your pride and joy so you understand the pit falls. Untill you have done it, you dont understand how easy it is to screw up.

I had never done any graphics at all before so it was a shot in the dark. I did practice on an old panel and asked alot of questions on here. I will also add I have a little bit of artistic ability which makes laying out the flames a little easier. I also used a digital picture of the truck and a drawing program on the 'puter to figure out what design I liked. I printed it out and did a mirror for the other side. Then just looked at the picture and layed the flames out free hand. Not hard, but time consuming.

The forced air should work fine, but make sure to filter it. I should have made it clearer on the attic fan. I went and got a $40 2500 cfm fan and mounted it in a piece of ply wood that I set under the large door. The plywood sealed everything off nicely and the fan pulled fumes to the floor and out similiar to a downdraft the nice shops use.

McDeuce 01-28-2004 09:56 PM

Lots of good info! Thanks Turbo.

I'm going to be painting my '32 roadster this summer and plan to make a paint booth much like the one in your gallery. However, I live in a neighborhood, and am concerned about blowing my leftover paint onto my neighbor's cars.

What about waiting a minute or two to let the wet stuff settle before turning on the fan?

Or, should I just offer to cover their cars with plastic temporarily?

Or, is it not a problem at all?

Dubz 01-28-2004 11:15 PM

I'm also looking to paint my car in my garage and this info is great stuff.

I also did the custom cowl like you did s10, yours looks quite a peice better than mine at the moment though... :)

what was difficult about the Enamel?? as i was looking to do a single stage

what kind of fresh air system did you use for your lungs?

if you have an extraction fan you can always run some 12" or larger ducting type stuff to run the extracted air out of your neighbours way.

Also what did you use for a filter?

TurboS10 01-29-2004 05:32 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by McDeuce
Lots of good info! Thanks Turbo.

I'm going to be painting my '32 roadster this summer and plan to make a paint booth much like the one in your gallery. However, I live in a neighborhood, and am concerned about blowing my leftover paint onto my neighbor's cars.

What about waiting a minute or two to let the wet stuff settle before turning on the fan?

Or, should I just offer to cover their cars with plastic temporarily?

Or, is it not a problem at all?

I would suggest building a box around you exhaust fan enclosed by air conditioner filters. This will pull all the solids out that are of any size. It can definately be a problem depending on how close they are. You will have to run the fan all the time, or you will not be able to see anything and the booth will fill with overspray. You want a large fan to keep this from happening. If it is too small, you will still have problems.

Quote:

Originally posted by Dubz
I'm also looking to paint my car in my garage and this info is great stuff.

I also did the custom cowl like you did s10, yours looks quite a peice better than mine at the moment though... :)

what was difficult about the Enamel?? as i was looking to do a single stage

what kind of fresh air system did you use for your lungs?

if you have an extraction fan you can always run some 12" or larger ducting type stuff to run the extracted air out of your neighbours way.

Also what did you use for a filter?


That damned hood is still not that great. I wish I had spent the money. Even though I braced it well to keep it from pulling in at the back, it still did about 1/4 inch which makes for an ugly gap. It will be replaced one day.

Enamel is not forgiving at all. If it is too dry it looks like crap, and too wet you will run it all over the place. It is also not possible to sand with good results using metallics. With BC/CC the base goes on dry like primer so you dont have to worry about runs. The clear goes on similiar to the enamel, but if you run it you can just sand it out and buff to a shine. For part time garage painters this is very important. If you dont do it every day, you dont have the "touch".

I used a charcoal activated filter mask which is supposed to be good for Urethanes. It is very important to replace the filters on the correct schedule. Isocynates in urethane can kill you. If you have access to fresh air hood, use it.

Chris

kenseth17 01-29-2004 07:03 PM

I remember the first thing I painted when I was just a teenager s10 before going to techschool. It was my grandpa's fishing boat and he picked up the most neon green there was, I used Centari and had runs all over the place, and with the bright green you could swear you could see them from a mile away. Then I painted my Cutlass when deltron base/clear first was coming out. It looked pretty good, but I choose a spot panel clear and didn't realize that was what it was for so it had a hard time getting around the car. It looked decent after buffing though. After painting enough everything becomes a lot easier and you know how to deal with any little problems you run into.

McDeuce 01-31-2004 11:52 AM

Speaking of respirators, I started a thread asking about using a SCUBA respirator for painting. Any input would be appreciated.

http://www.hotrodders.com/t33243.html

Dubz 01-31-2004 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by TurboS10
Enamel is not forgiving at all. If it is too dry it looks like crap, and too wet you will run it all over the place. It is also not possible to sand with good results using metallics. With BC/CC the base goes on dry like primer so you dont have to worry about runs. The clear goes on similiar to the enamel, but if you run it you can just sand it out and buff to a shine. For part time garage painters this is very important. If you dont do it every day, you dont have the "touch".
Chris

If you weren't doing a metallic, and were using a flat or semigloss paint (such as the blitz black) do you think they would be still difficult?

deuce_454 01-31-2004 04:14 PM

I live in europe... and Spies and Hecker sales guy (i can get a discount through a friend of mine) and apparantly both the primer/sand and the base coat is waterbased, and only the clear is solvent based (any special considderations) they all use accelerators and are 2 component but water based?????????????


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