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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-17-2006, 10:08 AM
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My garage is the envy of most of my friends. It was built over size when the house was built, 25' wide by 32' long, which is one of the reasons we purchased the home many years ago. The one thing that has always really bugged me was the fact that the garage was not finished inside, walls/ceilings, and the fact that the garage was hot in the summer and cold in the winter. Also there was a total lack of ventilation in the garage.

We are in the process of remodeling the house so I had the finishing of the garage added into the project. Before the new roof was put on we added turbine fans (air driven) to the roof over the garage. There was a window in the back end of the garage overlooking the back yard, this window was removed and an insulated roll-up door installed. The garage is being rewired to provide ample power for my shop tools plus we are adding heat to the area, we are also insulatiing the walls/ceiling and covering everything with 5/8" gyp board for fire proofing and sound deadening.

The down side of the whole project was that I had to empty out the garage, a forty year collection of car parts had to be removed and stored. The good part was that I found things I did not know I had plus to I discarded four dumpsters of just plane junk....

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2006, 02:02 AM
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HEY!!! THAT WASN'T JUNK!!! I NEEDED THAT!!!
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2006, 07:02 AM
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Now you live by the beach and its to hot? LOL I sealed around my garage door and ran a window ac unit out the side 3500btu. You could put in a duct off the ac and insulate and a little dry wall and your done. Lot of good storage up there. could do a vault ceiling to.


Craig
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Old 08-22-2006, 03:41 PM
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Like WmSteed, I put a wind driven turbine fan on mine this summer. Doesn't take too much of a hole in the roof, although mine was easier with asphalt shingles instead of concrete. I saw on my folks' concrete tile roof though it wasn't rocket science to cut around the vents through the roof, looked like they cut straight across above it and then the flashing over tiles below?

Here's the CFM ratings it says on the box it came in -
5 mph wind = 350 CFM
11 mph = 750 CFM
15 mph = 975 CFM

Don't know how accurate that is. And of course no wind, just what hot air rises through the hole! Spins with very little wind though, seems to help, although I need to get my soffit vents in. Incoming air comes through a window now. Good luck!
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Old 08-22-2006, 06:52 PM
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BeeTX, What part of Montana are you in? I have a daughter in Denton, ninety miles east of Great Falls. The 39 Plym I have on my avatar came from Montana, found it sitting in a field in 1996....
Wm.
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Old 08-22-2006, 08:09 PM
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Wm - I like to remain a little anonymous on location, but glad to hear there's some Big Sky connections out there! -BeeTX
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Old 09-05-2006, 02:26 PM
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venting paint or gas fumes

Just a word of caution, If you have fumes that might ingnite you might consider a completely sealed barn fan.
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Old 09-05-2006, 08:12 PM
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After about a month of 100+ in my garage I finally did something about it. The garage here has an upstairs that neither the former or current owner have bothered to finish out so it's about 20 ft celiing so a window unit just won't cut it. My brother in law made me a deal on one of those swamp coolers from Mobile Master cool (< $500) and even in the Alabama humidity it provides some reasonable measure of cooling. At 96 degrees in the garage it's blowing about 78 degree air and you can roll it around to where you're working.
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Old 09-08-2006, 04:08 PM
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My garage was on the verge of collapsing when I bought the place, open up to the roof, no truss bracing, just 2X6's for the roof framing, and two 2X4's that had pulled off the top plate on one side that were supposed to hold the walls together. Roof sagged 4" and walls bowed out 6" in the middle over 50 years... So I built real trusses with 2X6's for attic floor for heavy duty storage, insulated the ceiling and walls (free 6" thick insulation), free plywood on the walls of the garage, old 70's paneling demo'd from house used on ceiling, free 92% 40,000 BTU furnace mounted in attic horizontally, free horizontal a-coil and 1-1/2 ton condensor for central air if I ever need to install it... Free leftover scrap sections of flexible ductwork, free plenum, etc... (I do HVAC for a living, always saving stuff from jobs - two replacement windows and a commercial grade steel 36" door as well, and 8 floursecent light fixtures, to finish off the garage... only had to buy electric panel and some wire, switches, receptacles)

I have no attic ventilation now, but plan to do something in the future in the way of a blow through fan with louvered gable vents, and if I use a furnace blower motor squirrel cage fan, I plan to make it so that I can hook ducts up to the sides of it and have them attached to louvers that go through the ceiling to switch to garage exhaust.

All that said, my garage stays as cool as can be in the summer, with no A/C yet even! The Dehumidifier running prduced some heat, and it was warm in there sometimes, but I keep a dehumidifier in there all summer to keep the moisture down, and that makes it feel much cooler at least. The insulation makes a HUGE difference if you close off the ceiling of yours.

When I remodeled our bathroom, I demo'd the old plaster ceiling, and there is blown in insulation in the attic. I got up there beforehand and moved out all the insulation to the rest of the attic so I culd knock out the ceiling without losing the insulation. I never went back up and put it back after drywalling, and the bathroom seriously was a good 10-15 degrees hotter than the rest of the upstairs every warm day we had. Insulation goes a LONG way. I also used some 1-1/2" foil backed ductwrap blanket insulation in my steel overhead door panels. The furnace would run once an hour when set on 60 degrees in 35 degree outdoor weather. The 90% high efficiency furnaces are set up for sealed combustion, suck combustion air from outside, exhaust flue gasses outside. No worries of fume explosions that way. The motor is just a standard blower motor though, not a TEFC (explosion proof) motor. A giant flame is much more of a combustion source than a spark from a motor however...
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Old 10-05-2006, 11:18 AM
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You can do as many of my friends and I have done across the country. We actually make/build from floor to ceiling, return vents for circulating the trapped air in the rafters. It is a cost saving effort to bring in fresh air and turn over the heated air from your upper levels. A simple whisper fan can be plumed into the ventilation down draft plenum's. All you need is a low intake vent with filter on the side of your garage. And then you can place a couple outlet vents on the upper sides of the wall. Most easiest location is the sofet under your eaves. You can cut round holes into every-other socket between your rafters on the upper section of your wall mounts. Then you add some screen to the holes fro keeping the birds out, and if your eaves are already boxed in and I did see you have siding, so your eaves are already boxed. And they should already have air vents perforated into them.

So this is an easy fix. Drill the holes in the wall going out under your eaves 2.5".
Screen these holes over, and then you have the air vents already cut.
Next. all you need to do is make some plenum's, run them up between a couple rafters, make a great big vent like funnel/stove exhaust vent styles plenum.
Attach the fan drawn down drafts to this exhaust vent intake setup.
And there you have it. Your under-cover air draft system. Not only will this remove the hot air, but will also help circulate fresh air into your shop.
Good luck, and it will be about $500 for all the materials from your local "Home Depot" AC department. I know you can get the exhaust plenum's already built, this is your most expensive article for the job. Place it in the upper most center of your garage and run the down drafts from there. And all you need is probably one section between your eaves to vent out of. Wire in a whisper fan and away you go. But don't forget to add a fresh air intake at the foot of your garage wall, this is a must for the system to work properly. Every garage should have a fresh air return system, simply to remove the toxic fumes from all our workings and going ons in our garages. Why do you think you get headaches every once and a while when out in the garage, fumes and vapors.
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Old 11-01-2006, 10:47 AM
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Underground venting

I read an idea from some other guys on another board about burying pipes underground about 6 feet where temp averages around 50 degrees year around.

I don't know anyone that don't have some sort of cleaning chemicals, paint, etc. or do some other actions that create toxic fumes such as welding, soldering, etc.

For those of us that live in cold country, leaving the garage doors open while you work on these things just is not an option!

A fan bringing in 50 degree fresh air year around sounds like a good idea to me! I'll be looking into this when I can.

...of course you still have to allow for exhaust.

Steve
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2006, 10:02 AM
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I worked on a film in the mid 70's where a guy built his house and ran a 10" pipe 8 ft underground for about 75 feet under his yard and then up above ground. He had a fan hooked up to it and in the winter he sucked the cool air from outside which was warmed by the ground and used it to heat his house. In the spring and summer he sucked the air past the by the now very frozen ground and used it to cool his place. He did have a furnace as well. It gets to be 40 below here in the winter and as hot as 105 in the summer.
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