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gasser project

2K views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  raidmagic 
#1 ·
so ive got about $3000 to work with and i want to build a gasser im getting the car tomorrow the 3 grand is just for the chassis...and so i was looking and saw some people cut the frame weld tubing in and make brackets but can i just take a arms and all that junk out then just make brackets on old frame..platform 55 buick special coupe so you can see why im scared to cut the frame. im useing a 327 and a 4 speed. thanks...The young hotrodder
 
#4 ·
Here is a pic of the frame with dimensions. Since it's a full frame I don't see a problem with welding mounts to it and hanging leaf springs. The crossmember that holds the engine should really go, and Jeep V-8 style mounts used -- welded/bolted to frame and extending over to engine, nothing under engine. You might need a heavier front crossmember if you go that route.

You do know a gasser style car is terrible on the street, right? If you intend to drive it much I'd reconsider. Sure, it looks cool, but will handle like crap. Those were drag cars, never intended to run on the street.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for letting us know that! Makes a difference in the advice you will be getting. I'd just box the front rails and use Jeep style mounts, remove engine/suspension crossmember, and make a stiffer front crossmember. Might have to extend the front frame rails a bit.
 
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#11 ·
V8 S10s are a riot; several here have built them. Start a new thread about that and see what you get for inspiration and how it fits your budget.

FYI most of the 'gassers' you see today are cartoon versions of what guys in their 60s and 70s were building 'back in the day'. The magazines used to call these cartoons 'street freaks' and it was basically the 70s version of 26" rims and candy wrapper paintjob on a 84 Caprice.

A REAL gasser, built to work well; sits level with the road, not nose-high like a bi-plane. All these goofy, cartoony wanna-be gassers are (to me at least) a slap in the face to the guys like Ohio George, Big John, Stone Woods n Cook, and a lot of other unsung guys who were out there during the 'camshaft' wars.

If you want to build a gasser: build your truck first.

Its a much easier build, has the ability to be faster, safer and stop better. This will get your skills up to par, you can sell the truck and recover your money and then tackle a very cool 1965-era gasser, that looks righteous, and will swing a big bat when you want it to, but also stop safe, steer safe and be a fitting tribute to the guys who came before us, who we are sadly losing way too soon.
There are some guys here with seriously gnarly small trucks. If you start a new thread; look for posts by:
S10xGN, OldBogie and ProStreet Rob to name a few.
 
#12 ·
A REAL gasser, built to work well; sits level with the road, not nose-high like a bi-plane. All these goofy, cartoony wanna-be gassers are (to me at least) a slap in the face to the guys like Ohio George, Big John, Stone Woods n Cook, and a lot of other unsung guys who were out there during the 'camshaft' wars.
I will disagree with you on that statement. During the "gasser wars" in the 60's many gassers were built with a nose high attitude. Big John's Willys, SWC mid 60's Willys and Ohio George"s 33 Willys all had a slightly nose up attitude built that way in an effort to aid in weight transfer. At one time Ohio George built a concrete spare tire for the back of the 33 for weight transfer and how do I know this? It's because I flagged him at Dahio dragstrip, located just outside Dayton, Ohio in 1960. BTW, the 33 originally ran a Caddy engine. Not often did you see the extreme nose high attitude due to the fact that it made an often squirrelly car more difficult to handle.
 
#13 ·
I suppose I should amend my statement to "the rocker panel should basically sit level..."

it also depends on what year and who is doing tech; and also photographic evidence can play tricks due to body lines and whether or not the car was in the very earliest stages of its launch - But:

If you look at competitive gassers, the rocker panel is essentially parallel with the ground.
Some rulebooks stated the car must have a level or slight downward rake (which some of the big players did not seem to adhere to as strictly as others. Im late for an appointment, but heres a small discussion I found quickly, with pics:
Gassers and Altereds Comparison - Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials - Model Cars Magazine Forum

Lastly, a lot of people call full bodied altereds "gassers" and they aren't. The infamous High and Mighty is usually seen lettered "/ALT"
 
#14 ·
I'd build a V-8 S-10 also. I guess the Special has the X frame and not the ladder type frame in the other 55 big Buicks. Now here is an idea -- use the S-10 frame under the Buick body. You might have to alter the wheelbase of the S-10, but I think it's about the right width. That's not a cake walk, but not terribly difficult. The X frame would need some straight sections welded in on the sides. That's not that hard to do either, but you need to make sure it passes tech for racing at the track you're going to be running at. You might want to go to the track a few times and talk to the guys with older model cars and see what they are running.

My brother ran an early Ford Ranger with a 348 (302 stroker) and nitrous. It was pretty quick, and needed wheelie bars. Small trucks are the cheap way to go, and a good starter drag vehicle. With a limited budget that's where I'd head, or get some other cheap dime-a-dozen rear drive vehicle -- Fox Mustang or any of the Fox body derivatives (80-86 LTD, 78-83 Fairmont/Zephyr, 80-82 T-bird) . The others aren't pretty, but are pretty cheap and set up just like a Mustang -- most suspension parts interchange. So you can be a bit "different" from the Mustangs and still find all the parts you need easily, and the cars are reasonably cheap.
 
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