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Old 09-27-2006, 11:05 AM
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Gauges....

Hey all,

I was in the middle of rewiring my car, and the only things that I really have left to wire is the interior wiring, and the trunk area. My parents moved and notified me on short notice that have to get my car running so that I can drive it up onto the moving semi.

The only circuits I needed to start my car and for it to run was the coil power, and the gauge power. The car started, ran fine.

My gauges on the other hand did nothing. I pulled all of the fuses from the fusebox and left only the coil and gauge fuses in, that way i would not have a dead short from the the other wires in the interior and trunk area that were not terminated yet.

I let the engine run, and both the oil pressure gauge and temp gauge did not read anything. I pulled the gauges and checked them by grounding the sending wire and the checked out.

I checked both the oil sending wire and the temp sending wire and both had continuity from the engine bay to the interior.

I checked for power at the gauge power wire and there was **--->.12v.<----**

My question is this. Do I have to have certain fuses plugged in in order for my gauge cluster to get power?

The rewire kit i used was an ez wire kit, the gauges are original to the car ('76 trans am). Thanks for the replies

Ben

P.S. What should the voltage be with key on at the "gauge power" wire?

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Last edited by docvette; 09-27-2006 at 04:43 PM. Reason: For Ease of Read..
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Old 09-27-2006, 05:06 PM
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Doc here,

BEN,

I edited your post to ease the read a bit..(lot of info.. )Hope that's OK..

Now back to your problem.

First it all depends on WHAT Car this is, AND WHAT gauges you have installed..

MOPAR's For instance ,Run on 6 volt regulated For stock Gauges..and Have a 6 Volt regulator chip (or dropping resistor) to supply instrument power .. Direct 12 volts will put them in outer space..So if it's Mopar, you need to check..

Most of the rest of the world operate from a simple "S", "G" and "I" set of terminals at the rear of the gauge..
  • The "S" Being for 12 volts Fused, Switched,
  • The "G" Being HARD, Well Bonded Ground,
  • And the "S" Being Sender ..(A Quasi Ground..through the resistance of the sender..)
If this is what you have..Then I note in your Question the part about .12.Volts..Is this a typo? cuz 0.12. Volts ain't getting it..It must be a full 12 volts..

Assuming it IS a Typo..Many things will cause the problem you describe..IF you have 12 volts solid to the Gauge with the key ON..Than power is not your problem (Unless MOPAR) IF not , put the fuses BACK in one by one, while monitoring your DVOM, until the meter reflects 12 volts..leave that fuse in place..On some GM's the INSTR fuse can be just that..INSTR, Or can be part of the RDO (radio) Fuse..

If the power IS good.

Then, Go to the grounds for your instruments and instrument cluster bucket..BE sure you have a PROPER bonded ground FOR each, burnish paint and use STAR washers..

Since you indicate , the use of a sender check..(wire off , wire grounded) Seems to operate properly, This would be indicative of a BAD engine ground or poor bonding at the senders..(too much Teflon tape or a very well insulating sealer, ) remove the sender, clean the threads, put a LITTLE anti~Seize in it and reinstall, test electrically, and look for leaks mechanically..Senders have a Tapered (slightly) Thread, like a pipe and usually WON'T leak unless a lot of heat and pressure are applied..Check and repair as needed.

That should fix the problem.

Doc
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Old 09-28-2006, 05:53 AM
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Thanks doc,

no that .12 volts (point one two) is not a typo. I did not try putting in the different fuses, and then checking the voltage. I did teflon tape the sending unit. I will try taking the tape off and then reinstalling the sender also. I hooked up a temporary ground to my dash. The gauges are the original for my car ('76 trans am). It has the printed circuit board connector on the back. I will try plugging the radio fuse back in and see if that solves my problem. Thanks for the help doc!

Ben
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Old 09-28-2006, 06:23 PM
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Doc here,

Well, that .1 volt at the gauge cluster tells the story..

You need to find and fix the power to the gauges before they will operate..

Doc
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Old 09-28-2006, 09:14 PM
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Don't the gages have their own fuse???
I think my 79 chev pu has a 5amp
and the aftermarket wiring in my 59 has a 7.5 amp
Just for the gages

Bryan
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Old 09-29-2006, 05:30 AM
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yes, the gauges have their own fuse, I thought i had put that in the first post, maybe it was a little unclear. So I currently have the "coil" fuse plugged in, and the "gauge" fuse plugged in.

When I check the power at the wire labeled "Gauge Power" I get .12 v.
I am confused because I thought if I had the "gauge" fuse plugged in, that would allow power to flow through the "Gauge Power" wire.

The wiring kit I am using is an EZ wire system.

Thanks for the replies
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Old 09-29-2006, 06:10 AM
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Doc here,



Place your meter across the battery..see if it does not read 0.12 also..

if so, you have a wrong scale OR the meter is defective..

OR your input protection device (fuse by the battery on the meter) is blown..

Let me know what you find..

Doc
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Old 10-02-2006, 10:53 AM
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dont laugh too hard....

I swore when this problem first came about, i had checked the "gauge" fuse, and it was still in good condition. I figured I would check that again before anything else, and turns out the fuse was bad. It must have been on its way out or something. Thanks for the help all

Ben
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Old 10-02-2006, 05:05 PM
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Doc here,

KEWL...I assume all works fine now?..

Doc
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Old 10-03-2006, 10:34 AM
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yeah, everything is in working order now. Thanks for the help
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