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Old 04-14-2006, 04:50 PM
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Gear Drive Pro's, Con's & Recomendations

HI,
I have a 1974 RS Camaro and would like to make it sound as bad as it runs and it looks. I am thinking of installing a gear drive. Anyone have any experience with these? How loud are the Pete Jackson quite vs. the loud? Can you really tell that there is a gear drive installed with a quite one? There are other brands available, should I think about one of them instead? Are they better or just cheap imitations? I have heard that gear drives do not last very long, Is that true? I know that in the past you had to do machining to make them fit, but I have also heard that the newer versions are simply a bolt on procedure. Any experienced rodders out there that can help?
Thanks, William

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Old 04-14-2006, 05:03 PM
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gear drives

This topic has been discussed numerous times. Do a search and you will get your answer.Personally I cant stand them. Even the quite ones.
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Old 04-14-2006, 05:28 PM
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If you get one, Id get a Pete Jackson. Good quality and you get what you pay for.
Ive heard em before and they have even been described as sounding like a blower, but I personally dont think they sound like a blower at all.
The noisey ones sound like somethings loose in the engine. But it all comes to a choice of what you like. Hg
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Old 04-14-2006, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HemmiGremmie
Ive heard em before and they have even been described as sounding like a blower, but I personally dont think they sound like a blower at all.
The noisey ones sound like somethings loose in the engine. But it all comes to a choice of what you like. Hg
I would have to agree with the not sounding like a blower.

They seem like they work well if thats your thing.

Steve
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Old 04-14-2006, 05:34 PM
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I wouldn't use 1. they cause excessive harmonics in the engine, where normally a chain or belt will just absorb the harmoniocs. some do require machining to fit.
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Old 04-14-2006, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
I wouldn't use 1. they cause excessive harmonics in the engine, where normally a chain or belt will just absorb the harmoniocs. some do require machining to fit.

amen amen amen
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Old 04-14-2006, 07:15 PM
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I had (have one for sale) in my SBC for about 2 weeks. Yanked it out and went back to the double roller. No regrets about removing it. Only that I am stuck with a $100.00 paper weight.
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Old 04-15-2006, 12:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOlowrider
I had (have one for sale) in my SBC for about 2 weeks. Yanked it out and went back to the double roller. No regrets about removing it. Only that I am stuck with a $100.00 paper weight.
What drive were you using?
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Old 04-15-2006, 12:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
I wouldn't use 1. they cause excessive harmonics in the engine, where normally a chain or belt will just absorb the harmoniocs. some do require machining to fit.
I am a believer that a gear drive is not good for valve train harmonics. Why? Dyno tested same engine with a double roller and a PJ gear drive back to back. 5 hp difference. I think that a lot of valve bounce harmonics are caused by gear drives, and that accounts for slight dips in the power curve that cannot be explained otherwise. Only double rollers for me.

Dislike the noise, too.
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Old 04-15-2006, 06:23 AM
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Blazin-ProForm noisey.
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Old 04-15-2006, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOlowrider
Blazin-ProForm noisey.
I was gonna make you an offer for it, but that's not what I am looking for.

My brother has the edelbrock gear drive in his 307 in a 70 Chevelle. I think it sounds good. I plan on going with either a cloyes/pete jackson quiet gear drive. My car is a mild 355 street car that doesn't go above 6000rpm much. I'm only going to add one for the sound, cause I like it. =) I did spend a good full day almost reading the posts on here first though.

Jason
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Old 04-15-2006, 10:17 AM
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Good points here about NOT running a dual idler gear gear drive, such as the Edelbrock, and especially the Pete Jacksons. These floating dual idler sets are problems from the very start. The "noisy" ones are built with the ldler gear distance "enhanced" looser, so they make more noise. Because of their very design, the issue with the dual idler is, the link plates are just too weak in the gear pin holes, and as the engine tries to grenade the gears outwards and away from each other, the pins themselves auger the holes in the link plates out, making the gears even looser. This ain't good.

If a gear drive must be used, go with the set plate mounted single idler setups like Summers Brothers and Milodon. These setups work with a plate firmly mounted to the block, or specialty aluminum timing cover, that hold the idler gear firmly in place, so it doesn't rock back and forth and auger out pin holes in weal link plates.

I completely agree with the harmonics issues mentioned above, and the floating dual idler sets just aggravate that stuff even more, especially as they loosen.

Only ways I do it now are either double row timing chain, or Jesel timing belt, with a cover for it I fabricate in my shop.

Best places for the Edelbrock, and especially any Pete Jackson floating dual idler gear drive is either back in the box, or back at the manufacturer, sitting on their shelf, not yours.
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Old 04-15-2006, 10:19 AM
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I think you will get tired of the sound after awhile. I did.
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Old 04-15-2006, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xntrik
I am a believer that a gear drive is not good for valve train harmonics. Why? Dyno tested same engine with a double roller and a PJ gear drive back to back. 5 hp difference. I think that a lot of valve bounce harmonics are caused by gear drives, and that accounts for slight dips in the power curve that cannot be explained otherwise. Only double rollers for me.

Dislike the noise, too.
Everybody I know that has run a gear drive dosn't anymore because of the noise.
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Old 04-15-2006, 11:45 PM
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this maybe a slight thread whore here(sorry) but what are you're opinions on belt drives?not huge gilmers,but ones like jesel and comp-cams?
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