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Old 06-24-2004, 07:32 PM
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Gear Swap.

I am going ahead and changing gears in my Malibu myself.
I have partially dis-assembled the donor axle and before proceeding any further, would like to ask for advice if it is necessary.

I have NO need to dis-assemble the carrier as it will fit my axle, and has the gear set I need.

After locking the pinion flange (and gear) in place I have a measured ring gear travel of 0.0105 inch, which I measured 4 times at this same result.

While measuring the above, I also side stepped and measured the carrier side-to-side movement and each time came up with 0.0015 inch, same in all 4 measurements also.

I have an inch pounds torque wrench, and tried to measure the force necessary to turn the pinion, BUT I came up with a NON-measureable reading.

This axle was apparently apart in the past to change the gear lube and nothing else, the C-clips show minimal wear in the contact area, and the axle shafts show no scoring where the bearings OR the shaft seals ride.

Let me know if I am wrong here:
I am under the impression I should take a gear mesh wear pattern before dis-assembly.
I should only have to purchase at this time a set of axleshaft bearings and seals, a pinion seal, and a new pinion nut, at least one new crush sleeve, a new cover gasket, and 2 quarts of new gear lube.
[color=green]
The things listed above should be the ONLY cost involved in this gear swap.[/color]

If I missed out on something I should do before pulling the carrier and pinion gear, LET ME KNOW.

Setting it all up in the other axle housing, I should just look at matching the settings, and gear mesh pattern, to what I measured in the old housing?

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Old 06-24-2004, 09:25 PM
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You missed new Pinion bearings!. If you are going to do this, replace the pinion bearings!

You will need to press off the large pinion bearing and measure the thickness of the shim between it and the pinion gear. This is what determines the depth of the pinion (tooth pattern). Use the shim that came in your housing!(edit- meaning the housing you are going to use) It really isn't quite that simple but for what you are attempting to do, will probably work. If you take some White grease and run a pattern before you pull everything apart, it will give you a good idea of what you should end up with.

Now, after you get the pinion in the housing. Set your crush sleeve and get your inch lb. torque figure on the bearing tightness (resistance to turn).
Then set your ring gear/carrier assembly CAREFULLY into the housing. Use the same side shims that came in your housing to start.

Check your backlash figure after carefully tightening the side bolts. EVERY housing is different so if things look and feel like they are binding, use care. If the gear binds, remove the assy and measure the side shims. Use the thinner shim on the ring side to increase lash , or the thicker shim to reduce lash.

If you are extremely lucky you can get it close.

You may also be able to use the shims from the other housing, but you can't exceed the combined thickness of the two original shims by more than about .004" max. . If you do your bearing pre-load will not be correct.

If you can't get the correct lash on the ring and side spacing. Then you will have to get an adjustable side shim kit from a rear/trans shop. These are service parts and are adjustable for about any combo. Or find someone that has been doing this for many years and they will have a twenty five lb. box of side and depth shims. like mine. GOOD LUCK!!
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Old 06-25-2004, 07:33 PM
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I was originally thinking of trying to get away with this exchange as cheaply as I could, but now am considering the total cost involved in a complete kit being only $120, that is a seemingly more sesible way to go.

As far as others explaining the "buy a secong pinion bearing and ream the inner portion for slip fit to check the pinion depth", Why can't I simply use one of the existing bearings that most closely matches the measurement of the new one, or simply write down the difference and adjust from there.

I have the instruction sheet for a set of Motive brand gears, and they leave a few details to be desired as far as explanations are concerned.

Everything I find out as far as information gets printed out for reference material in the shop notebooks I keep here.

I do have a problem with the axle I found for the gear set donor, and the picture will explain it's 1000 words worth quite well.
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Old 06-26-2004, 05:53 AM
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Last wiki edit: Transmission identification
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Ratech Inc. www.ratechmfg.com has an ad in Car Craft this month that includes
wording of "Solid Pinion Bearing Spacers" that eliminate the stock crush sleeve,
for Chrysler, Ford, & GM housings.
Their solid bearing spacer:



And in the same issue in the Tech Tips section #1 tip is for Reider Racing's GM "set-up"
bearings that are a slip fit for setting pinion depth properly but
without the hassle of
pressing the new bearing on-and-off several times (if it takes that, you have more chance
of damaging the bearings), and are included in their "master set-up kit".
I'm thinking this
and the solid spacer might be the way to go.

Also, the "adjustable differential shim" kit from Reider looks to be a beneficial expense
if needed.Full info HERE.

It looks like I'm just going to pull the carrier and store it until the funding says to purchase
this stuff, and make my axle like new again all in one shot.

Last edited by M&M CUSTOM; 06-26-2004 at 06:08 AM.
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