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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2009, 12:37 PM
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Ok

Hey Man, OK, did not know if you mean't a wall outlet or what. I'm fairly sure you'll find it to be a 3 HP(~17A under load), but it could be a 2 HP(~12A). Remember these are true HP ratings, not the inflated ratings used by residential compressor manufacturers(what's called a 6 HP nowadays is really a 3 HP at best). Current readings give a more accurate estimate on HP. Give me a holler if I can help.olnolan

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Old 09-13-2009, 02:10 PM
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It's cool i really appreciate the help, thanks man. yeah i got the amp clamp and its right at 12.5 amps unloaded. I was hoping it would be more powerful to ensure i'd be able to use the DA and my spray guns. I have no info on the pump so who knows what that thing puts out. what is something like this worth?

Last edited by ws6 beat; 09-13-2009 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 09-13-2009, 09:23 PM
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Ok here is a video of it running with everything connected.





once it hit around 130 psi the pressure switch started to leak. we took it apart and the gasket at the bottom is worn and has a hole. does anyone know what type of filter it needs for the hole on the pump. i went to lowes today and they all had some sort of breather on it. I also drained the water and there was about 2 gallons of water in there. it was clear with no signs of rusting.
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Old 09-14-2009, 07:17 AM
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You can use any type of small automotive intake air filter for the pump. The pump is just like a car engine, it has intake and exhaust valves inside and you want to protect them and the piston/cylinder inside from dirt. Any small pleated paper filter can be fitted.
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Old 09-14-2009, 09:44 AM
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You are on the right track and that thing should work but one thing has been overlooked and that is the age/condition of the tank, the fact you drained 2 gallons of water out of it is a very bad sign. Short of having it pressure tested there is no practical way to determine the safety factor of the tank but for sure if that thing ruptures it is going to do some serious damage so be careful. I would suggest you at least limit the upper pressure to no more than 125 PSI which should be plenty, as old as the compressor is it undoubtedly has some wear so it probably would lose a lot of efficiency above that anyway. Also I would strongly suggest replacing that safety pop-off with one rated no higher than 140 PSI, you need to replace that old one regardless of what you decide for the peak pressure, and you can most likely save quite a bit of money on that pressure switch and the pop-off valve at www.surpluscenter.com but be sure and get one with an unloader switch.
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Old 09-14-2009, 09:52 AM
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Red is sooo very right, as most large industrial systems rarely go beyond 110psi. and most air tools are rated at about 90 psi. Running the compressor at higher rating is asking for trouble.
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Old 09-16-2009, 12:04 AM
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so i decided to get this pressure switch from grainger by my house.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3FWF4?Pid=search

It doesn't have the little copper fitting from the pump. I'm assuming it does it from the diaphragm (diaphragm actuated). I am not sure however. I also didnt get the unloader valve that goes with the switch, so have to go back tomorrow and get it.

Is it ok just to take out the 1/4" copper hose from pump to old switch and close the hole on the pump? the old switch had a little copper hose from the pump to the side of the switch. there it was connected to a device that pushed a lever inside the switch to turn off the compressor.
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Old 09-16-2009, 06:51 AM
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Unloader Valve

Hey Man, you're gonna need the unloader valve. The copper tubing to compressor head unloads the head pressure each time it stops to keep it from starting up under head load and overloading your motor. If you read my post again, I gave you the proper pressure switch part numbers already. The one you picked out will not work. olnolan
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Old 09-16-2009, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLNOLAN
Hey Man, you're gonna need the unloader valve. The copper tubing to compressor head unloads the head pressure each time it stops to keep it from starting up under head load and overloading your motor. If you read my post again, I gave you the proper pressure switch part numbers already. The one you picked out will not work. olnolan
Follow what he says, he's right. That unloader prevents wear and tear on the whole system. If it wasn't needed the mfg wouldn't put one on the compressor. Get the right switch!!!!!!
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Old 09-16-2009, 08:34 AM
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but that switch is rated for 10 amps. what is the 30 amp equivalent? will this one work?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3FWF5

Last edited by ws6 beat; 09-16-2009 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 09-16-2009, 08:42 AM
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You can't get away from not using a unloader. Without it there is extra strain on the compressor valves(not good), starting current will go through the roof. Compressors of this type are splash lube'd and starting under load is not good for the rod, main and wristpin bearings. Plus the extra strain on the drive belt.
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Old 09-16-2009, 08:45 AM
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the one i posted above says it has the 1/4 in unloader the description is just like the one onlan posted but higher amps.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2009, 08:58 AM
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Look For Hp Rating

Hey Friend, You have to look at HP rating on switches. The 2PXU3 is the same exact switch you currently have. The 3EYP6 is a less expensive replacement. The 3FWF5 will work, but it's more than you need(rated for 5HP). You can trust me on this, I've been in industrial equipment installation and maintenance for 35+ years, nationally certified industrial electrician. Your choice. This will be my last post on this matter.olnolan
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Old 09-16-2009, 09:40 AM
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Sounds Rude

Hey Friend, I re-read my last post and decided it sounded rude. Didn't mean for it to sound that way, but I spent quite a bit of time on this. I think the question in your mind is the 10 amp contact rating(hint-10 amps per contact x 2). Ya got a good deal for free. olnolan
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Old 09-16-2009, 01:25 PM
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I'm sorry for all the questions and for me sounding rude also. I am learning a lot through trial and error. I saw a 10 amp rating and thought it was too small because under load the compressor pulled a little over 16 amps and 12.5 no load. but i will take your advice and head back to grainger today. I'm gonna do the lower cost switch because i need to buy some 2k and universal clear to finish my trans am. thanks for all your help and time.
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