[ws6 beat]

My friend gave me a compressor. it was taking up space in his shop. the compressor has a ceccato 9357 pump and a general electric motor. I am not sure what the specs are for the pump or the motor. i opened up the side of it and found a wiring diagram that had np261800 and made in the usa. my friend said that it needs to be rewired and that both pump and motor are good. I'd appreciate any help getting this thing going as it'll save me a bunch of money in having to buy a new one.

[OLNOLAN]

Hey Friend, What do you need to know? olnolan

[ws6 beat]

I was looking for the some specs for the motor and pump. My friend said that this part needs to be replaced. where can i find a replacement part?

[jaguarxk120]

Chances are you can find that pressure switch with unloader valve at Grangers.
Do you have the cover for the switch? If so it will have the ratings printed on it.
Also please post a picture of the motor nameplate showing the rating on it. Gives us more to work with.
Many times oldred will kick in with his knowledge of these systems, a great help.

[ws6 beat]

I don't see much more info on the compressor most of the stickers it has are worthless. what cover are you talking about? on the pump on the top it has the numbers 42317 on it.

[jaguarxk120]

There should be a cover for the pressure switch. If not then when you buy a new switch try and get one that has ratings the same as the motor amp draw.

[ws6 beat]

tis one looks very similar but i think that that motor is more than 5 hp .

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2FH16

[C-10]

Motor appears to be capacitor start. Single phase 230v(low) or 460v(high) AC. Don't think it will run on 115v. Pressure switch looks a little tired. Consider updating that part. Take the belts off, wire the motor directly to a plug (through the capacitor box, or it will just set there and HUM) and see if she'll spin up. Change oil in compressor, spin it by hand with main pressure tube off to feel for a bad cylinder if any. Could service you for another 50 years, who knows...

[ws6 beat]

I will do it tomorrow. i spun it by hand and it did pump air from the inlet. any switch recommendations? I do have a 230V at home.

[C-10]

Originally Posted by ws6 beat

I will do it tomorrow. i spun it by hand and it did pump air from the inlet. any switch recommendations? I do have a 230V at home.

Your previous post #7 has a switch rated for 10A. Your motor may draw more than that continuously. That switch type (DPDT) is what you need. Better look up an 'amp clamp' for testing your motor. Maybe the motor has a plate affixed to it somewhere that states amp draw at a certain voltage.

[ws6 beat]

could i just add a dmm into the circuit and read the current? I have one available but would have to buy the amp clamp.

[Shelby1]

Originally Posted by ws6 beat

could i just add a dmm into the circuit and read the current? I have one available but would have to buy the amp clamp.

DO NOT Do This!!! by the looks of your motor it will pull more than 10 amps on start and every Dmm amp circuit draw is only rated for 10 amp, most likely it will blow the internal fuse and /or the meter itself. As posted before look for a motor rating ,should be a motor rating plate on the motor somewhere if there is not one buy/barrow/rent a amp clamp so you can test it as posted before.
And be careful!!!
Kenny
Lost your job yet?.....Keep buying foreign

[ws6 beat]

Ok will do. Thanks for all the help guys. Guess I'll be heading down to sears today for an amp clamp.

I connected it directly to wall and motor came right on. I added some oil to test the pump and it worked perfect. It's very quite compared to my ingersol rand 2hp. even my dad was like wow that thing is quite. the place where pressure switch goes was wide open and a ton of air blew out while running. I'm excited. I'll be able to use my devilbiss plus at home.

[OLNOLAN]

Hey Friend, I looked at the photos and did a little digging, here's what I think;
1) Motor is most likely 3HP, TEFC, single phase, 115/230 dual voltage(the TEFC enclosure, cooling fins and capacitor sized peckerhead will lead you to think it's bigger). Single phase motors above 3HP go to single voltage(230vac). I'm gonna GUESS that it's 3600RPM cause of the dual belt setup, if it was an 1800RPM it would probably only have a big single belt. Running current(amps) should be 16-17A which HAS to be measured with a clamp on ammeter(can't do it with VOM or DMM).
2) What you have there(pressure switch assembly) can probably be salvaged but you should have a cover on it.
3) Steps to repair;
a) Get an ez-out extractor to remove broken nipple from tank.
b) Get a new 1/4" nipple and some 1/4" copper tubing and a couple of 1/4" compression fittings.
c) Re-mount the pressure switch and re-tube the unloader line(switch to compressor head).
d) It will need a 230 vac, 30 amp circuit(#10) from your electrical panel to the compressor location. At the compressor location, you'll need a 30 amp service disconnect (2 pole,30A, 250v). This work should be done by a qualified electrician.
e) Check oil in compressor before testing. If after testing, the pressure switch is bad, you'll need a Grainger item#2PXT8(80-100 PSI preset) OR 2PXU3(100-125 PSI preset) $95.20 for either. Not sure if that old baby will pump 125 PSI. If $95.20 is to hard to swallow, you could substitute a 3EYN7 or 3EYP6(80-100/100-125 respectively) $25.20 for either but not quite the quality of the SQUARE D switches.

This should get you going.olnolan
EDIT- I guess I was a little too late. If you're plugging it in to a wall outlet, you're gonna smoke something. Motor leads configured for high voltage~17amps, configured for low voltage~34amps, configured for high voltage plug in to low voltage=smoke and vice versa.

[ws6 beat]

I connected it to the 230 volt out I have at home. I disconnected before the capacitors etc...