[paperairplane]

So, my 326 is broken. Will start, sometimes. Will run, once started, for a while.

Things I know are good: rotor button, cap, plugs, wires, coil, battery, alternator and starter/solenoid, battery wires.

Symptoms: slow cranking, battery dies.

Known problem: wire from battery to starter joins with 2 other wires and goes into metal tube that protects said wires from manifold heat. When the metal tube touches manifold - BIG *** SPARKS.

So, basically one or both of my ignition wires is shorted / broken / split / arcing or something similiar. This has cooked 1 alternator already and is draining the battery down. With a meter I am getting a little over 12 volts at battery and coil. No gauge, only dummy light, which is glowing faintly on and off.

I guess I don't need a ton of info on this one, just figured misery loves company. My solution is to keep replacing and back tracking wires - I really don't want to put a harness in this car right now, but the 40 year old wires are having trouble keeping up.

[poncho62]

I would do some rewiring, before the thing burns to the ground. There is a lot of amperage going through that main starter wire.

[paperairplane]

I heard that Poncho.... I hate the electric side of things. Nothing worse than trying to find some short or broken wire or dead relay etc etc etc

[bullheimer]

sounds like you have a short inside the tube making it hot, so when it touches ground (block) it sparks. PULL ALL THE WIRES OUT NOW AND RUN NEW ONES!

[Silentlion_69]

I have to agree with bullheimer on that one, before it turns into someting worse, just my 2 cents

[tm454]

Put the car up on ramps. disconect the battery. go the starter and check the location and color of the wires as connected, write down said location and colors as seen. disconect the wires. the wires are probably grounded to the metal tubs so you may have to remove the metal tube also. Twist the wires loose form the metal tube and splice and repair the wires one at a time. Run the repaired wires back through the tube and connect the tube and the wires as you have writen them down. Making sure the metal tube is NOT touching the exhaust this time secure the metal tube to the block or what ever it was attached to and have fun driving your car!!!


Tazz


Rat Rods Rule!

[paperairplane]

Few down..... few to go.

I still need to run a new wire to the solenoid (easy), and I am going to use muffler/header tape on the metal tube to further insulate and make it less conductive. Just haven't had time to jack the car up lately.

If all goes well should be all set by this weekend.

On the plus side, I did have time to braze some little stuff together. I am progressing along the welding line... solder, braze, etc...