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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2011, 02:07 PM
chevy302builder18's Avatar
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when i do it, ima replace the rods. I can reuse the pistons, press fit rod pins, umm i could do a cheap rebuild kit on it, comes with pistons and rings, and buy a set of new 5.700 inch rods of corse they do need replaced bc they were roasted darker colored... But that brings the compression ratio to 10 to 1, only qeustion i have for that is will i still be able to run pump gas on that? And there will be souped up vortecs on it, please let me know what you think.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2011, 04:07 PM
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found a cam that better suits my needs, but its 700 + $ and its a roller retro fit cam and lifter set. Comp cams CCA-SK12-408-8. Roller hydraulic tappet. Gonna look alot harder for cheaper one. Im replacing the whole bottom end also, crank, rods, and bearings. The cam in it has been chewed up and flat lined. Gonna do thougrough clean up, should i do new cam bearings?
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2011, 04:32 PM
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No offense, you really should go back and re-read post 11.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2011, 05:01 PM
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welcome to my thread, which is completely and utterly useless at the moment, not trying to be rude but i know my way around a SBC. Im not messing around, i do know my stuff just wanna know what kinda power specs for a dyno on these combos, i am asking politely for dyno specs on a 400 using these combos listed. If you can tell me that im happy, wont post a thread here again on SBC. Im tired of gettin the run around here. Ive looked up specs on dynoed 400s and they were in the upper rpm power band but not one has useable street rpm power band. Let me know please!!
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2011, 06:00 PM
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What run around are you getting? You've changed directions in this thread numerous times. I'll tell you what nobody else wants to tell you. You are ill-informed and un-educated in the ways of small block chevys. Why the hell did you go buy a junk 400 if you didn't have a plan and know how much power you can build? Go to Google, punch in 400 Chevy recipes and freaking read and teach yourself. And please, save your crying about how put out you are that nobody will reply. Seen it time and time from you internet wannabe's that don't get the answer you like and then tell us all how you won't bother us again. Come correct, drop the 'tude, ask some meaningful questions and you might get some help. If you can't do that, don't let the door hit you on the way out.
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Old 05-24-2011, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevy302builder18
found a cam that better suits my needs, but its 700 + $ and its a roller retro fit cam and lifter set. Comp cams CCA-SK12-408-8. Roller hydraulic tappet. Gonna look alot harder for cheaper one. Im replacing the whole bottom end also, crank, rods, and bearings. The cam in it has been chewed up and flat lined. Gonna do thougrough clean up, should i do new cam bearings?
Check out Howards cams for a cheaper retro cam.

If the crank in this engine will clean up at anything reasonable, reuse it w/a set of 5.7" forged I-beam rods from Scat. The money you save will go towards a good set of D-cup pistons, heads, cam kit, etc. that you will also need.

There are cheap basic rebuild kits around like from National and Competition Products, better than buying the gaskets and oil pump, etc. separately in many cases- even if they include some parts you don't need (resell or trade fodder).

Cam bearings will be removed most times prior to cleaning the block so all the annular grooves behind the cam bearings will be thoroughly cleaned. Take all the oil galley and freeze plugs out before you take the block in for cleaning- everything you can do-do, otherwise you'll be paying shop rate (~$75/hr.) for them to do your beech work.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2011, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cool rockin daddy
What run around are you getting? You've changed directions in this thread numerous times. I'll tell you what nobody else wants to tell you. You are ill-informed and un-educated in the ways of small block chevys. Why the hell did you go buy a junk 400 if you didn't have a plan and know how much power you can build? Go to Google, punch in 400 Chevy recipes and freaking read and teach yourself. And please, save your crying about how put out you are that nobody will reply. Seen it time and time from you internet wannabe's that don't get the answer you like and then tell us all how you won't bother us again. Come correct, drop the 'tude, ask some meaningful questions and you might get some help. If you can't do that, don't let the door hit you on the way out.
well that was a great answer thank you haha for reposting please dont bother, i havent had a tude with anyone just asking for some specs, jeesh guy, and no im notta wanna be, i have fantisized and thought about hotrodding chevys years or so since i was 15, so 'please' dont say that, i have no intention on getting ugly with you. Ok? Cant handle answering a good question than tell me please what would you recomend cheap good heads for this engine?
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2011, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
Check out Howards cams for a cheaper retro cam.

If the crank in this engine will clean up at anything reasonable, reuse it w/a set of 5.7" forged I-beam rods from Scat. The money you save will go towards a good set of D-cup pistons, heads, cam kit, etc. that you will also need.

There are cheap basic rebuild kits around like from National and Competition Products, better than buying the gaskets and oil pump, etc. separately in many cases- even if they include some parts you don't need (resell or trade fodder).

Cam bearings will be removed most times prior to cleaning the block so all the annular grooves behind the cam bearings will be thoroughly cleaned. Take all the oil galley and freeze plugs out before you take the block in for cleaning- everything you can do-do, otherwise you'll be paying shop rate (~$75/hr.) for them to do your beech work.
thank you cobalt, that would be a good way to do it. I heard the comp ratio was good with these rods, and this stroke combo.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2011, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cool rockin daddy
What run around are you getting? You've changed directions in this thread numerous times. I'll tell you what nobody else wants to tell you. You are ill-informed and un-educated in the ways of small block chevys. Why the hell did you go buy a junk 400 if you didn't have a plan and know how much power you can build? Go to Google, punch in 400 Chevy recipes and freaking read and teach yourself. And please, save your crying about how put out you are that nobody will reply. Seen it time and time from you internet wannabe's that don't get the answer you like and then tell us all how you won't bother us again. Come correct, drop the 'tude, ask some meaningful questions and you might get some help. If you can't do that, don't let the door hit you on the way out.
look dude whats your problem this kid didnt ask u for help and then you wanna say this about him hes young and is trying to learn on the ways of the small block chevy not only that i thought we were all hear to help eachother out in our forums not dis eachother i know this kid he lives in the town as me and he is a good kid but as far as you sounds like you had an off day
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2011, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevy302builder18
I heard the comp ratio was good with these rods, and this stroke combo.
OK. I've played along as best as I could, but at this juncture, I will have to side w/those who've suggested you get a book or two on the SBC. I'd recommend "how to rebuild your SMALL-BLOCK CHEVY" by David Vizzard. It ain't perfect by any means, but it will get you started in the right direction. Hopefully someone will chime in w/a better publication for the basic theory behind the internal combustion engine.

The reason for this is anyone w/a basic understanding of an IC engine would not make the statement quoted above. The CR (very simply stated) is the cylinder's largest volume over its smallest volume. Changing the rod length w/a corresponding change in the piston compression height will not change the CR.

No hard feelings.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2011, 09:17 PM
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well i geuss i do, either that or ive been given faulty advice, ive LOOKED at the motorcraft car magazine article online and read in that magazine about there budget build 400, stating "the CR was really poor, 8 to 1, and a 5.7 inch rod would have compensated for lossed CR." ive been told a bunch of things, idk anymore, i think its more of an opinion deal here, who has the more pull with someone and there build.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2011, 09:28 PM
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ive been looking real hard, and yea id like to build a good engine. Dont get me wrong id love to build engines for a living. Cars even! Yes i can buy a book on sbc, like id ever use it cause im only gonna build this 400. thank you guys for posting. Ill look up this stuff on the internet
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2011, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevy302builder18
Ill look up this stuff on the internet
Nah, you'll just end up chasing your tail and getting more confused.

You're in the company of intelligent, educated adults here on this board, fellows who have been there, done that thousands of times between all of us active members.

If you want to learn, shut the hell up and listen. You can't teach us anything and we're all tired of hearing...."I'm gonna do this and I'm gonna do that". You're not gonna do anything except step on your dinkus if you keep running your mouth.

I, as well as others on this board can tune you up so that you can speak intelligently about motors/transmissions/differentials and all the other systems that go into making an automobile, but you have to work at it too. Get on the horn or order the book online that Cobalt was kind enough to suggest. Start reading. You will have questions. Come back on this thread and ask your questions. You will receive prompt, intelligent answers if you treat us like the knowledgable enthusiasts that we are.

The only reason I'm responding to this at all is that 1996thunderchicken vouched for you. Make him proud.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2011, 12:57 AM
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your right, im sorry for what i said. TO Everyone. I am not learning anything by asking random questions, just all you know alot about chevy performance and its like im a kid caught in a candy store haha. Im sorry, for any un intelligent stuff i have posted.. Im tearing it apart tomorrow and thouroughly looking at it. Then having an experienced friend look at it also.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2011, 01:51 PM
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"look dude whats your problem this kid didnt ask u for help and then you wanna say this about him hes young and is trying to learn on the ways of the small block chevy not only that i thought we were all hear to help eachother out in our forums not dis eachother i know this kid he lives in the town as me and he is a good kid but as far as you sounds like you had an off day"

Sorry, Thunder, but you're all wet. I don't give a damn if you know the kid or not. The subsequent posts by others vindicate my position. But that isn't important. The kid realized he was pinballing all over the place and realized he's gotta take things one thing at a time. That's the most important thing, he's gonna take the time and learn about his engine first hand, not by throwing a ton of questions on the wall and seeing what sticks. Perhaps you should look back and reflect on the type of day you had when you typed your post.
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