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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2011, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevy302builder18
well i played with the calculator some, and i got these results. Bore- 4.125 stroke- 3.75 and added up all the numbers 0.041 gasket thickness, and 4.2 bore gasket -11 cc domes summit offers for $350 hypereutectic, the smallest ones i could find, those with a 64 cc chamber are 10.25 .1 or even possible 11.45.1. I did follow the suggested. I did find -15 cc dish would work fine at a 9.47.1
I'm not sure who (or if) makes a 15cc reverse dome dished 400 SBC piston. KB makes a couple sized at 18cc and 21cc, IIRC.

Have you run a search here and elsewhere for "400 sbc builds"?

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2011, 11:25 AM
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o well 18ccs? I could do compression check on those i didnt see that
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2011, 11:28 AM
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yea i seen abiga**bowties thread horsepower geusses that was very helpful also. Seen the valve lash one that recently been up there to recently have been learning some new stuff, thank you cobalt!
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2011, 03:37 AM
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if i post a picture of the rods in this engine, could you tell me if there reusable? Thats the only reason i asked about the 5.7 rods, bc the guy that gave me the engine said the thing was knocking, and it burnt up the two connecting rods, idk what this means but he said not to trust em. The only thing i could possibly do about the rods is grab some used, and use em again lol or settle for the 5.7 after market ones. Which i am debating. There discolored in a way, but could i reuse them? Id like to save money and just replace the crank, and the bearings, oil pump, ect. Ill tear it apart tomorrow to show pics please let me know what you think! Ill also cc these pistons, idk maybe i could reuse those too.
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2011, 03:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevy302builder18
if i post a picture of the rods in this engine, could you tell me if there reusable? Thats the only reason i asked about the 5.7 rods, bc the guy that gave me the engine said the thing was knocking, and it burnt up the two connecting rods, idk what this means but he said not to trust em. The only thing i could possibly do about the rods is grab some used, and use em again lol or settle for the 5.7 after market ones. Which i am debating. There discolored in a way, but could i reuse them? Id like to save money and just replace the crank, and the bearings, oil pump, ect. Ill tear it apart tomorrow to show pics please let me know what you think! Ill also cc these pistons, idk maybe i could reuse those too.
My opinion is that if a rod has discolored (blued) due to heat on the big end after having spun a bearing, I toss them out w/o a second thought.

Even if you had 6 or 7 decent rods, they need ARP rod bolts installed and then they need resizing- this is if they pass magnetic particle inspection for cracks. Then the replacements will need to be matched up w/the rest of the rods in order for the reciprocating assembly to be balanced.

A better idea IMO is to get a decent aftermarket set of weight matched 5.7" I-beam rods that are already sized correctly and have good hardware installed.

To know if you can reuse those dished pistons, you have to measure them and compare their size to the bore to see if the clearance will allow them to fit w/o excessive clearance. If not, you need different pistons and the block bored to match them. How much of a ridge is at the top of the block? If it's excessive, it has to be removed before removing the pistons or the pistons can be ruined by taking them out.

Before you disassemble the engine, mark the rods for what position they are in the engine, as well as the rod caps so they go back on the same rod in the correct position. If the center three main caps aren't marked, mark them, too. ALL the caps have to go back where they came from. If the mains spun a bearing, the block needs to be checked and probably at least have the mains honed.

BTW- ALL this is covered in the Vizzard book.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2011, 04:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
BTW- ALL this is covered in the Vizzard book.
LOL i know ill have to grab that the day after tomorrow when i get payed! Sorry if im bothering yas. Thank you!
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2011, 04:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevy302builder18
LOL i know ill have to grab that the day after tomorrow when i get payed! Sorry if im bothering yas. Thank you!
Not so much a bother, but it was a reminder...
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2011, 10:10 AM
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Here's a simple combo that you can build. Call http://www.aeroheadracing.com/id7.html and get a set of Dart Iron Eagle S/S 72cc with 165 runners get them to install 2.02 and 1.60 valves. Buy some of these http://www.kb-silvolite.com/kb_car/p...hp?action=comp they will give you about 9.5 to one compression. Get a set of 5.7 rods to go with theses pistons. Buy you a Elberbrock RPM intakeand a 750cfm carb. And for a cam this is what i would pick. http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp-Cams/249/...oductId=746624. I Think you would have a nice 375 to 400 Hp motor with all the torque you could handle.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2011, 02:28 PM
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well i do have a 750 holley double feed vac secondary, wanting to change it to a double pump. The heads sound killer, what about the stahl? If i said i had a cam and lifter set already, CS XE274H-10 comp cams (used) but cobalts wiki article told me to use used ones for a door stop,18000 miles was recorded on this cam. i also have a brand new never used timing chain set. i got these with the engine. Those valve springs i took another look at the valves the tops are great, there duel springs
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2011, 02:46 PM
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so i was sittin with the engine in the trunk of my dads lincoln, im tearing apart at it, and the main bearings had a strip of metal hanging off. There aint none in the block but im gonna blow it out real good, Theres a bunch of metal shavings on the back of the block so im hoping a manual tore this up, clutch throwed it for a loop with no pilot bearing. And the rods arent blue, the lands for the bearings got some metal swapping, and the hard ware isnt bent, nor the rod. Its wasnt tore up that bad but caution will be taken in using these rods again. Alot says this motor was just hot rodded, bc i got the rings and pistons over the ridge of the cylinder no problem. Stretched timing chain
ill share some pics with yas please let me know what you think
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2011, 03:15 PM
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The carb you got is fine. i would not put a DP on it. vac is the best for the street it is more forgiving. The cam you have if it is new a never run it would be fine. But take the crank to be turned and if you buy new pistons please have the block bored, you are just wasting time and money if you don't. This type of cam does not need dual spring they would be to high of a seat pressure and would eat the cam up in no time. Also if you buy new pistons get the ones i siad or some like them that use 5.7 rods.
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Old 05-31-2011, 03:30 PM
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ok. lets say your on a buget. you have some 76cc stock heads and don't have the money to spend on new ones. I would find me some 350 rods and buy these pistons http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/400-C...-/380329146098

Then i would take my head to get 2.02 and 1.60 valves in them if they don't have them and get him to bowl blend the pockets and gasket match the intake runner to a felpor 1204 intake gasket.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2011, 03:47 PM
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well i got pictures, i would like to get new rods, but if i can reuse these. I even found origanal gm casting on these rods. Well i would like to bore it out and get new rods, but if i can try and save money. Im gonna have the money, but i would like to save. These are the back two rods
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2011, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevy302builder18
so i was sittin with the engine in the trunk of my dads lincoln, im tearing apart at it, and the main bearings had a strip of metal hanging off. There aint none in the block but im gonna blow it out real good, Theres a bunch of metal shavings on the back of the block so im hoping a manual tore this up, clutch throwed it for a loop with no pilot bearing. And the rods arent blue, the lands for the bearings got some metal swapping, and the hard ware isnt bent, nor the rod. Its wasnt tore up that bad but caution will be taken in using these rods again. Alot says this motor was just hot rodded, bc i got the rings and pistons over the ridge of the cylinder no problem. Stretched timing chain
ill share some pics with yas please let me know what you think
First, are the springs really dual springs, or (more likely) is the inner "spring" really a flat damper?

If that/those rod(s) isn't/aren't blue, just what color would you call them? Those photos are out of focus, BTW. So maybe I'm not seeing what I think I'm seeing. Any chance you could take some better photos? Tight, in focus shots are what's needed. You might have to manually focus the camera.

Show the bores, crank journals and the rods again. And show the "strip of metal hanging off"- sounds like what's left of a bearing insert.

If the metal shavings at the rear of the block are on the outside, it's prolly clutch material like you said. If it's inside the engine it might be the rear thrust bearing, or who knows.

Do you have any tools to measure the piston and/or bore with to tell if the pistons are oversize or not?
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2011, 06:38 PM
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i do not have anything to measure bore, but im sure a engine with this small of a ridge had been bored. But the pictures from left to right ill name off. Well that ones the rod, orange metal, with some black scars. Theres two of those pics, and the second one is a grey. Sorta damaged two of those, and the last one is my finger on the ridge, i can barely keep a finger nail on it.
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