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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-2013, 01:22 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogg View Post
I didnt realize that the marine folks used GEN II engines, that would explain the intake then. That also explains a few other marine setups that I have seen as well.

On a 383 would you go Vortec Bowtie smallport. Fastburn alum., or Vortec Bowtie largeport.
You say that the Fastburns would require porting to equal the largeport heads flow numbers. Is a 383 going to require such flow numbers. Making big torque and power numbers is one thing, but at what rpm will this be happening?
I might as well ask for roller cam recommendations as well. Input?

I have talked to guys who have installed FAstburn heads on 350's and used the Fastburn 383's 222/230 cam and found it to be a revvy cam lacking low rpm torque.
Another guy had a couple valve seats fall out of a set of Fastburn heads.

I recently read an article where they took an HT383, added a different roller cam and came up with 460hp, up from the 340hp rating. IIRC the cam was in the 230-240 range at 0.050".This was promising and has me wondering if I really even need to look at other heads???

peace
Hog
What RPM do you want your power peak at? What is your redline? Have you decided to run 383ci for sure?

That will determine optimal head size.

likely the large port heads are too big, but they will still work okay even if they are a little oversized. I wouldn't go that route myself but its not a bad option.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2013, 08:30 AM
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383-388 cubes, peak power 5500-6000, redline 6500 Intake can be changed in future.

Truck runs 4.10 gears with 27" tire, 2800converter(will be changed)

Supercharger no thanks, I dont want more things driven off the crank, way too many L31 have snapped the cranksnout off more my comfort.

PCM tuning isnt an issue.

peace
Hog
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2013, 08:49 AM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogg View Post
383-388 cubes, peak power 5500-6000, redline 6500 Intake can be changed in future.

Truck runs 4.10 gears with 27" tire, 2800converter(will be changed)

Supercharger no thanks, I dont want more things driven off the crank, way too many L31 have snapped the cranksnout off more my comfort.

PCM tuning isnt an issue.

peace
Hog
If you change your intake now you have a MUCH better head selection.

225cc ports are too large for that power peak, you need a 210cc or so port like the Fastburn heads, which are actually really good heads but they could use a little clean up, which will cost time or money or both.

The fastburns will easily get you around the 450-475hp mark (assuming you find a decent intake) at 6,000 rpm, but if you want to go over 500 you'll need to get them cleaned up.
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Old 03-18-2013, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
If you change your intake now you have a MUCH better head selection.

225cc ports are too large for that power peak, you need a 210cc or so port like the Fastburn heads, which are actually really good heads but they could use a little clean up, which will cost time or money or both.

The fastburns will easily get you around the 450-475hp mark (assuming you find a decent intake) at 6,000 rpm, but if you want to go over 500 you'll need to get them cleaned up.
What non-Vortec 8 bolt head would you suggest with matching PFI intake?

Hyd. roller cam suggestions? Any sense going with a solid roller cam in this setup? Is maintenace as bad as the solid flat tappet setups?

thanks

peace
Hog
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2013, 12:46 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Originally Posted by Hogg View Post
What non-Vortec 8 bolt head would you suggest with matching PFI intake?

Hyd. roller cam suggestions? Any sense going with a solid roller cam in this setup? Is maintenace as bad as the solid flat tappet setups?

thanks

peace
Hog
Depends on budget.

The cam wear depends on cam design, lifter choice, oil, and spring choice. A GOOD solid roller combo is NOT cheap. Using GM lifters with a hydraulic cam is a much cheaper option, will have little upkeep, and can produce good power- though solids will always be better. For your application I'd go hyd roller and save the money, but I'm kinda cheap.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2013, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
Depends on budget.

The cam wear depends on cam design, lifter choice, oil, and spring choice. A GOOD solid roller combo is NOT cheap. Using GM lifters with a hydraulic cam is a much cheaper option, will have little upkeep, and can produce good power- though solids will always be better. For your application I'd go hyd roller and save the money, but I'm kinda cheap.
Budget for heads. Lets say $2500 complete, obviously cheaper is better.

Sounds like hyd roller for this app. then.

thanks

peace
Hog
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2013, 03:22 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Here's a good set of heads for a 4" bore,
This is my 215cc offering
he also offers these heads,
Pro-Filer ECONO

which are better for a larger bore. Either head is 600+hp capable. For the intake, on a street runner I would run the 7137 Edelbrock intake.

The heads/intake combo would be about 2 grand but then you need injectors, throttle body, fuel rails, etc.

The power comparison compared to a marine intake with fastburn heads isn't even close, BUT you have to invest in a completely new intake manifold system, which isn't cheap.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2013, 08:03 AM
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Not sure if this has been mentioned but you can get a good scat 383 kit with rods pistons and crank for about 800 bucks. stuff it in a bored 350 block of any number four bolt prefered but not needed. I use a lot of 010 truck blocks as they are very likley to be four bolt mains.

The lt4 hot cam will limit the power you can make. You want to make more power the lt4 hotcam is one to skip its great for efi in more modern cars but if you can tune get something nasty.

External balance is workable and can be purchased as pre balanced kit with all the parts to make it work. including flexplate and harminic balancer.

THink simple and use a big *** cam it will run. a comp 294s will make close to 500 hp with good compressions and heads in a 383 build.
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
Not sure if this has been mentioned but you can get a good scat 383 kit with rods pistons and crank for about 800 bucks. stuff it in a bored 350 block of any number four bolt prefered but not needed. I use a lot of 010 truck blocks as they are very likley to be four bolt mains.

The lt4 hot cam will limit the power you can make. You want to make more power the lt4 hotcam is one to skip its great for efi in more modern cars but if you can tune get something nasty.

External balance is workable and can be purchased as pre balanced kit with all the parts to make it work. including flexplate and harminic balancer.

THink simple and use a big *** cam it will run. a comp 294s will make close to 500 hp with good compressions and heads in a 383 build.
I dont think anyone mentioned the LT4 hotcam, but I agree I wouldnt use it.

Here is the 294S cam you reccomended
Operating Range: 2500-6500 RPM
Duration Advertised: 294 Intake / 294 Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 248 Intake / 248 Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .525'' Intake / .525'' Exhaust
Valve Setting: .022'' Intake / .022'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 110


Looks like it would work well, but I will be staying away from flat tappet cams.
Anything similar in hyd. roller?

There are some 880 blocks floating around with 4 bolt mains on the 3 center mains.

thanks for the Scat kit info, I like the sounds of getting a kit that has been balanced with the damper and flexplate as a whole.

peace
Hog
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2013, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
Here's a good set of heads for a 4" bore,
This is my 215cc offering
he also offers these heads,
Pro-Filer ECONO

which are better for a larger bore. Either head is 600+hp capable. For the intake, on a street runner I would run the 7137 Edelbrock intake.

The heads/intake combo would be about 2 grand but then you need injectors, throttle body, fuel rails, etc.

The power comparison compared to a marine intake with fastburn heads isn't even close, BUT you have to invest in a completely new intake manifold system, which isn't cheap.
I do like that 7137 intake, I was looking at its Vortec brother in the past, for use with the Largeport Bowtie Vortecs.

Those heads look like they are serious parts. Do you have personal experience with that company? HAve you used these parts?

This is starting to look like a higher rpm setup now.

Any opinions on converting a 2 bolt block to splayed mains, or would stock 4 bolt mains suffice? Would you take 2 bolt mains to 7000rpm?

Thanks again.

peace
Hog
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2013, 01:02 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogg View Post
I do like that 7137 intake, I was looking at its Vortec brother in the past, for use with the Largeport Bowtie Vortecs.

Those heads look like they are serious parts. Do you have personal experience with that company? HAve you used these parts?

This is starting to look like a higher rpm setup now.

Any opinions on converting a 2 bolt block to splayed mains, or would stock 4 bolt mains suffice? Would you take 2 bolt mains to 7000rpm?

Thanks again.

peace
Hog
Personally I won't spend that much money on a sbc platform when the gen 3/4 stuff is so much better but there are MANY people who have nothing but good things to say about speir and his products. you can find him on speedtalk.com. If you're looking at 7,000 rpm then the heads I linked too will be too small, they're more suited to a hot street 383 than a more race style set up.

On the blocks, rpm, and rotating assembly- it depends a lot on weight and balance.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2013, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogg View Post
I do like that 7137 intake, I was looking at its Vortec brother in the past, for use with the Largeport Bowtie Vortecs.

Those heads look like they are serious parts. Do you have personal experience with that company? HAve you used these parts?

This is starting to look like a higher rpm setup now.

Any opinions on converting a 2 bolt block to splayed mains, or would stock 4 bolt mains suffice? Would you take 2 bolt mains to 7000rpm?

Thanks again.

peace
Hog
A stroker crank and 2-bolt caps @ 7000 rpm is an open invitation to cap walk.

To run the rpm a cam in the 250 degree @ 0.050" lift range is going to use, you are going to want all the stiffness you can get. Splayed caps would be a given for me. You might get away w/factory 4-bolt cap arrangement w/good caps and aftermarket fasteners, but the wider register that the splayed caps can give is a real plus IMO.

2-BOLT OEM BLOCK


4-BOLT OEM BLOCK


4-BOLT SPLAYED CAP OEM BLOCK Using Milodon Caps


4-BOLT SPLAYED CAP FULL WIDTH REGISTER BOW TIE BLOCK
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2013, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
Personally I won't spend that much money on a sbc platform when the gen 3/4 stuff is so much better but there are MANY people who have nothing but good things to say about speir and his products. you can find him on speedtalk.com. If you're looking at 7,000 rpm then the heads I linked too will be too small, they're more suited to a hot street 383 than a more race style set up.

On the blocks, rpm, and rotating assembly- it depends a lot on weight and balance.
The heads you suggested were making peak power at 7,000 rpm, the other was making 588@6500rpm which would make for a 7000rpm or so shift point.

I originally stated a 6500 rpm redline.

OK thanks for your input, looks like this guy makes some good stuff.

Everytime I get looking into combinations, it always looks like it is less expensive, and less involved going up to the GEN 3/4 platform.

peace
Hog
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2013, 02:34 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Everytime I get looking into combinations, it always looks like it is less expensive, and less involved going up to the GEN 3/4 platform.

peace
Hog
It usually is.

You can pick up a running 5.3L for less than $500. throw on a cheap turbo with some injectors and tuning and you're at 600+hp.

Or go NA with a cam and headers and you're at 425+hp.

Not to mention the much improved durability, mpg's, and engine controls.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2013, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
A stroker crank and 2-bolt caps @ 7000 rpm is an open invitation to cap walk.

To run the rpm a cam in the 250 degree @ 0.050" lift range is going to use, you are going to want all the stiffness you can get. Splayed caps would be a given for me. You might get away w/factory 4-bolt cap arrangement w/good caps and aftermarket fasteners, but the wider register that the splayed caps can give is a real plus IMO.

2-BOLT OEM BLOCK


4-BOLT OEM BLOCK


4-BOLT SPLAYED CAP OEM BLOCK Using Milodon Caps


4-BOLT SPLAYED CAP FULL WIDTH REGISTER BOW TIE BLOCK
Those Milodon caps look beefy. I looked them up and they are $230 and come with bolts.

Thanks for your suggestions.

peace
Hog
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