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Old 11-15-2002, 04:56 AM
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Post Getting at interior rust

How do you get at the rust between panels of your interior? I mean there is next to no clerance to even think about getting a wire wheel or similar tool. Even steel wool won't fit between some of the interior metal panels. And removing them is not quite an option.

My best ideas are maybe some tooth brush sized wire brushes or maybe some steel wool on some sort of stick. I really don't see an easy way to get at it. And then once I g=remove as much as possible I could use some spray on rust convertor, but I am not a huge beliver in the rattle can spray ons I have used in the past.

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Old 11-15-2002, 06:24 AM
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I have worked with the same problem. I took my pressure washer and put on the pencile tip and sprayed it in the hard to get to places and knocked everything loose out. Then I used Zero Rust's Prep step in the area then Zero Rust Paint. I thined the paint down little more so it will get into the tight areas. I primed the entire cab to my truck with it. Its been sitting out side pretty much uncovered since about May. Havent had any rust come back. Here is their web site.
<a href="http://www.zerorust.com" target="_blank">www.zerorust.com</a>


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Old 11-16-2002, 02:40 PM
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One thing to remember is the factory did not seal between panels when the car was built. At least on the older cars they didn't, so don't let it be one of your biggest fears. If you can get inside of the rockers,down along the sides in the trunk area, and the bottom of the front fenders, then you should be in pretty good shape. Maintaining the areas so they stay dry is the biggest concern.

Kevin
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Old 11-17-2002, 02:24 AM
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Most of my interior problem is the roof and sail panels. Not bad, just surface rust, but I don't want it to go any further.

I am going to have to patch the passenger floor(I am going with a new front floor section and some patching in the back), driver's floor near the pedals, both rear quarters below the body line, the driver's side fender(a little hole, but still needs to be patched), the rear glass area, and the trunk floor(but I already have plans on how to fix that up).

It sounds like a lot, but really only the passenger front section and the trunk floor need much replaced. Alot of the rear quarters is more to prevent it from spreading as it has not rusted through much. Most of the problem is on the drivers side of the trunk where the rear glass filler panel rusted out. I am looking at maybe 200-300 dollars in sheet metal from year one. So it could be alot worse.

[ November 17, 2002: Message edited by: Wmarden ]</p>
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