[31ROC]

Changing the stock oil pan to chrome( yea, I know get ready for leaks right?)...anyway, after some reading here, looks like the best route is a 1 piece oil pan gasket (Fel-pro Blue)? and some gasket sealer on front and rear of gasket? Sealer on pan? Sealer on block? on both? What type of sealer?
Other suggestions?

(late 70's Chevy 350 motor, 2-piece rear main seal)
Thanks!

[killeratrod]

first lightly scuff the lip of the pan, then RTV blue go "around" the bolt holes & lip, Then place your gasket on, Then repeat. Use a little small bead. Tighten bolts side to side & front to back.

[31ROC]

Originally Posted by killeratrod

first lightly scuff the lip of the pan, then RTV blue go "around" the bolt holes & lip, Then place your gasket on, Then repeat. Use a little small bead. Tighten bolts side to side & front to back.

When you say "RTV Blue", is that the brand? Or Permatex Blue?
Also, are we talking cork or rubber gasket?
Thanks!

[lmsport]

Sand the chrome off the gasket surface.
Use the Fel Pro one piece gasket, either the blue performance part of the standard black one. The blue one comes with bolts. I use no sealer on them anywhere, EXCEPT, in the 4 corners where the gasket transitions to the cover and the rear main cap. I use the Permatex grey RTV for everything.

[cdminter59]

Take some sandpaper to the chrome oil pan where the gasket fits. Use some 3M Super Yellow Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive on the oil pan and align 1 pc gasket with bolts & nuts in pan until adhesive dries. Apply Permatex Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker 82180 at the 4 corners of the crankshaft and block. Install the pan and do not over torque the bolts.

[ap72]

Some of these ideas are REALLY overkill, but if you are bored and have the time, I guess you can do that. I just use a thin layer of oil resistant black RTV on each side of the gasket, and tighten the pan in a criss cross pattern in 2 steps, first to get contact with light pressure, then a second time to snug them all up.

It's really that simple.

[31ROC]

I have decided to tig weld the pan to the block, and do a leak test!
OK....just kiddin, all great ideas folks, and I appreciate them!
Thanks again.

[killeratrod]

hey if you could tig weld that thin steel pan to the cast block , You would be the best welder in the world. HAHA!! On the real note this is not a hard job. Just do not know what amount of clearance you have to remove the pan. May have to remove the motor mount bolts and jack up the motor .

[31ROC]

Originally Posted by killeratrod

hey if you could tig weld that thin steel pan to the cast block , You would be the best welder in the world. HAHA!! On the real note this is not a hard job. Just do not know what amount of clearance you have to remove the pan. May have to remove the motor mount bolts and jack up the motor .

Nothing in the way to remove pan....all clear under there....

[NEW INTERIORS]

I can say this much... If you don't ruff up the lip with some sand paper,,, You can use all the Permatex you want,, IT WILL LEAK...

[RLDSL]

Skip the permatex, go ahead and scuff the pan mating surface and get some Hylomar racing formula and hit the gasket both sides liberally with that stuff and you will have ZERO leaks .wear nitrile gloves, you dont want to have to get that stuff off your hands Get a few tubes and be prepared to have wallet shock, but there's nothing better ( thats the same stuff that is the factory sealant on rolls royce jet aircraft engines :-) even if you get a gap from an irregularity in the pan it will hold.it wont pull away once it's in place like everything else.

[ap72]

I don't know what pans you guys are using on what engines but I have never had a leak with plain oil resistant RTV smeared on each side of the gasket.

I've never scuffed the pan, I just make sure the block and pan are clean. And DON'T crank the hell out of the bolts. just get them snug.

I really don't understand how you guys are having trouble with something that I really give little attention to and have never had a problem on any engine I've done, 4, 6, 8, single cylinder, cast or stamped pans, etc. never a problem with just a clean surface and oil resistant RTV.

To be honest I've even done a few with no gasket and JUST rtv and had no problems, but I would recommend using a gasket if you have one, especially on a sbc where there's a considerable gap on the front and rear.

[NEW INTERIORS]

Originally Posted by ap72

I don't know what pans you guys are using on what engines but I have never had a leak with plain oil resistant RTV smeared on each side of the gasket.

I've never scuffed the pan, I just make sure the block and pan are clean. And DON'T crank the hell out of the bolts. just get them snug.

I really don't understand how you guys are having trouble with something that I really give little attention to and have never had a problem on any engine I've done, 4, 6, 8, single cylinder, cast or stamped pans, etc. never a problem with just a clean surface and oil resistant RTV.

To be honest I've even done a few with no gasket and JUST rtv and had no problems, but I would recommend using a gasket if you have one, especially on a sbc where there's a considerable gap on the front and rear.

Any Chrome pan,, You may have got lucky... But I have fixed many CHROME pans that leak because the lip won't seal,,, You keep on doing it the way you do it.. If that's what's working for YOU... Passing this on to someone will save someone the pain from a leak later.. What does it hurt to do something right the first time..

It's like painting over your clear coat without sanding it first...

[snakebit68]

I agree you really should scuff the lip of the pan or you're headed for leakage. I usually use a wire wheel on a drill to scuff the chrome off or a 3M disc pad. If you do that the blue one piece gasket will work as it should. Great gasket and I use it on my 800 HP stroker engine without any leakage.