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Old 02-24-2007, 09:23 PM
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Getting ready to paint my vette lot of questions

Ok First the car is a 1990 Corvette ZR1 I have no reason to believe it has ever been repainted so im working with the factory black paint, Over all the paint isnt to bad but on my mirrors and rear quarters over the last year the clear coat has failed it is not flaking off but more turning milky white and a few spots the black is dull like the clear is all the way gone maybe that flaked off and I didnt see it.

The paint on the rear quarter panels looks like it has thousands of scratches or cracks in it.

So Now that I have the car all torn down what should I start with for sanding?

I know I need to use a degreeser on the paint before I sand but what should I use as far as grit?

Do i use 220 over the entire car to include the SMC body panels and the metal mirror and gas tank lid, and the plastic bumpers?

Im more concerned with what to sand the bumpers with as they are made from unubtanium and I dont want to damage them.


But the paint is so bad on the quarters Im wondering if I should take it all the way down to the factory primer or the black coating the parts had after manufacturing, I just dont want to cause myself more work than needs be and I want to get it done as soon as I can (im tradding it for a 1969 corvette bigblock!)

Anyway Heres my other thing I am a US Marine stationed down in North carolina the good part is we have a auto body shop on base that we can use to paint our cars full on spray booth the whole bit the bad part is they only let us use Sherwin williams paint products, I have painted a few cars years ago and I have painted plenty of aircraft at work im sure of my ability to shoot the paint im not so sure about the S/W products I need some help here


Unfortuntaly it is Cold down here in the 30/40s right now so painting in the garage is out of the question even though I could do it I just think its way to cold in the garage and the paint wouldnt hold correctly I do have everthing to do the job just not sure about the outside weather and the garage is not heated.

someone tell me otherwise and ill go for it haha


Can anyone help me on what sealer primer base and clear coat I should use from sherwin williams? I trust they make a good paint since so much money is put into reasearch I was going to use HOK but base requires the S/W

HELP!

thanks

Ill post some pics of the paint damage tomorrow so you fellas can see it and know what im talking about


Johnny

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Old 02-25-2007, 12:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zr1salvage
I know I need to use a degreeser
Here's where the choice of what exactly you use to clean off wax and contaminates can come back around paint time and bite ya... Many times we have seen people make fiberglass that normally would paint up fine turn into a nightmare because of what they think is a good idea at the time,,,

If it were me I'd pass on the solvent/petroleum based cleaners..
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Old 02-25-2007, 07:19 AM
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Well this is just to clean and degrease the paint, Im not even to the SMC yet
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Old 02-25-2007, 08:15 AM
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What I would do is clean the existing paint really good 2-3 times with a good wax and grease remover be it waterborne or solvent before you start.

Then going on the assumption that your stripping or sanding the paint with a sanding device I would not clean the bare SMC with anything except a dry clean rag.

If you don't break through the paint then you can clean again before you application of paint or sealer.
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Old 02-25-2007, 07:04 PM
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AS for your sanding question. if the car is real straight then just sand with 400 just enough to knock any gloss off ,put a light coat of something to seal or hold done any feathered edges and slowly shoot some color then clear, couple weekends .. Pics will help , This could be a simple couple steps to a nice looking car or a disaster if you just start ripping...

Same color?
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Old 02-25-2007, 07:42 PM
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I havent started sanding yet so no worries there I want to have all my ducks in a row before I start.

Im keeping it the same color But I want this paint to last so I want to do it right the first time

Ill get pics up as soon as possible even thought I dont think they turned out that good even in the sunlight
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Old 02-25-2007, 07:55 PM
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If the clear is turning milky and breaking down you'll want to remove that layer, I'd sand it with 220 then shoot two coats of urethane surfacer, block it with 400, seal it with epoxy and apply the paint. Some pics would really help.

Make sure every square inch is sanded or scuffed before you shoot any primer.
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Old 02-25-2007, 09:09 PM
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Ok here are pics of the car














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Old 02-25-2007, 09:19 PM
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This is what it looked like in 2005 before the clear failed.

I did everything I could with this paint the clear just failed on me.





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Old 02-25-2007, 09:24 PM
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ZR1,
Any time I've had one of those type come in my shop, I usually strip them down to the black urethane coating that's put on the panel at the stamping process. I usually strip the clear with 80 grit, and then remove the base with 120 grit.

The reason for the failure is the clear was not thick enough and as such didn't have enough UV protection. This causes the base ( black in this instance) to oxidize which lets the clear coat delaminate. You can get buy with just removing the clear coat. I would use 120 grit for this, however I would put at least 2 coats of a good 2K urethane primer on it and block to make sure it was straight, especially since it's black. Finish this off with 400-500 wet and you'll be ready for base.

Hope this helps
Dan
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Old 02-25-2007, 10:08 PM
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Rule # 1 the car is not a table ,you can't set things like that can of oil on it..
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Old 02-26-2007, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milo
Rule # 1 the car is not a table ,you can't set things like that can of oil on it..

Yeah because its really going to hurt the paint right? thanks for the help ill be sure not to let it happen again

Last edited by zr1salvage; 02-26-2007 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 02-26-2007, 10:36 AM
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zr1,
wait till summer....

fiberglass does expand and contract depending on temp

blocking a "warm" body will make it look that much better when the new black paint is 150*+ on a summer afternoon
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Old 02-26-2007, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milo
Rule # 1 the car is not a table ,you can't set things like that can of oil on it..

Milo,
That was hilarious! I did not know you even had that in you.

Rough day and first time I laughed all day!
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Old 02-26-2007, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang
zr1,
wait till summer....

fiberglass does expand and contract depending on temp

blocking a "warm" body will make it look that much better when the new black paint is 150*+ on a summer afternoon


Cant wait it has to be now
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