Hey Mike, as often as we agree, this may be one time that we have a bit of a difference of opinion. I feel that BC/CC is easier to paint, solid color or metallic and or pearl. The reason being that if you have a dirt/dust problem in Base Coat, simply allow the Base Coat to flash, remove the imperfection by wet sanding with 600 grit wet and apply more Base Coat over the troubled area. When the car is covered with an even coat of Base with all the imperfections removed and recoated...apply the clear coat. Any problems in the clear coat can generally be cut and polished out. If you have a dirt problem in a solid color Single Stage, you need to allow the Single Stage to cure, cut the imperfection out and polish. Then if the dirt in the Single Stage is of a darker nature (especially in White) it is permanently in the finish unless it is recoated with more Single Stage to cover the imperfection.
I do agree that White on these cars with a darker accent color is a good look. I also agree that GM did have an adhesion problem with White in the mid 80's...as well as Blacks, Reds, Blues, Greens, Yellows, Metallic Colors, Pearl Colors...GM, along with Ford and Chrysler had major adhesion problems in this era, regardless of color. Often the substrate from the factory was also suspect and your advice to check the adhesion with a razor blade to see if the original paint can easily be removed is very sound. If this was my vehicle, the car would be stripped...for my own piece of mind.
Mike, you also addressed another issue that should be a concern to the OP and that is color change. To achieve a true color change from White to Black Cherry requires twice the work of simply painting a car. To do it properly the Hood, Doors and Deck Lid should be removed, the underneath (Hood and Deck Lid), inside panels (Doors) and the jambs, Fender lips and Trunk lips should be pre-painted with the color of the exterior of the car. This still leaves the engine compartment and firewall the original color from the factory...White...and will be extremely noticeable when the hood is opened. All these things should be considered when attempting a color change.
Used doors are plentiful and can be purchased at a reasonable price from most any wrecking yard. Before attempting any repairs, this is an option that should be looked into. Sometimes replacing a part is more economical than trying to repair the part. This would make even more sense if a complete color change (painting the inside and underneath of all panels) was part of the plan.
On another personal note...I hate painting White. White paint will hide a multitude of sins with respect to the straightness of the body work but I go what I call "Snow Blind". I have a problem seeing where I'm going or seeing where I've been. Sometimes when I've painted a large area White, I've needed to "Trust The Force" and rely on experience more than real time visual to get even flow.
I hope this post hasn't created confusion in the OP's mind but these are all things that need to be taken into consideration when painting a vehicle. I feel it's also better to explain as many pitfalls and potential dilemmas prior to purchasing a boat load of materials and then wishing someone had told him of all the situations that might arise.
I'm sure that there will be more questions, please feel free to ask.