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  #181 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2013, 08:08 AM
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well i didnt bother covering the car i did for one day but the water just condesated on the roof so i took it off , cars barley has any surface rust on it after 4 days of rain, gota love living on the edge of the desert.


anyways car goes for primer in 3 days so i just wanna be clear and make sure i do final prep the right way

#1 drive car to friends
#2 hit car with 80 grit pad on da
#3 wash with w&q remover
#4 mask everything off
#5 use tack rag
#6 prime

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  #182 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2013, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Project89 View Post
well i didnt bother covering the car i did for one day but the water just condesated on the roof so i took it off , cars barley has any surface rust on it after 4 days of rain, gota love living on the edge of the desert.


anyways car goes for primer in 3 days so i just wanna be clear and make sure i do final prep the right way

#1 drive car to friends
#2 hit car with 80 grit pad on da
#3 wash with w&q remover
#4 mask everything off
#5 use tack rag
#6 prime
It would really be good to clean it with W&G remover before you DA it and again after.

If you are going to drive it to your friend's you could get road film on it and you don't want to grind that into the metal with the 80 grit.

John
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  #183 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2013, 08:33 AM
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Also, with it raining for a few days...I'd be concerned about moisture getting into the body work areas that aren't coated with a primer...filler is a sponge if not top coated with an Epoxy or at least a 2K primer...sorry but those are one of the draw backs of doing this type of work outside and having your car exposed to the elements.

Ray
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  #184 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2013, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Also, with it raining for a few days...I'd be concerned about moisture getting into the body work areas that aren't coated with a primer...filler is a sponge if not top coated with an Epoxy or at least a 2K primer...sorry but those are one of the draw backs of doing this type of work outside and having your car exposed to the elements.

Ray
theres not much body filler on the car should i go ahead and sand it all off and reapply on friday night ?
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  #185 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2013, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Project89 View Post
theres not much body filler on the car should i go ahead and sand it all off and reapply on friday night ?
Here are a few additional tips (just my 2 cents...):

I don't think you need to remove the filler... just wash the car and be sure to let it dry thoroughly.

For #3 wax and grease remover, be sure to apply with apply with a paper towel, and then dry-off with a separate one. I usually let this dry for 15-20 minutes, and then follow-up with aerosol glass cleaner to get the surface pristine.

For #5, use a tack cloth in combination with an air gun - and also do this between coats.

Good luck...
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  #186 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2013, 01:55 PM
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X2 on what "RalphL" said....and make sure that the areas with filler are dry...like you mentioned you live near a dessert...that should help, I'm always concerned when filler that doesn't have a coat of primer overtop of it gets wet.

Ray
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  #187 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2013, 09:46 PM
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I like for the wax and grease remover to be the very last thing I do (short of tack rag) before I spray, so cleaning would come after masking. Reason being, when masking I'm almost certain to touch the car. If my jeans touch it, finger touches it, basically almost anything touches it I consider it contaminated and needs to be cleaned. And you probably will lean on the car and be touching it with your hands while masking.
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  #188 (permalink)  
Old 07-18-2013, 05:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Project89 View Post
well i didnt bother covering the car i did for one day but the water just condesated on the roof so i took it off , cars barley has any surface rust on it after 4 days of rain, gota love living on the edge of the desert.


anyways car goes for primer in 3 days so i just wanna be clear and make sure i do final prep the right way

#1 drive car to friends
#2 hit car with 80 grit pad on da
#3 wash with w&q remover
#4 mask everything off
#5 use tack rag
#6 prime
After masking use the W&G remover one more time then tack & prime
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  #189 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2013, 12:29 AM
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thanks guys the car is ready to go and ill be taking it over tommorow morning .in the morning we will touch up any areas that need to be sanded a lil better and finish preping the car, then once the temps drop later at night we will prime it.

i did give up on making the hood nice and straight , as it was twisted from being proped open with a prop rod and had waves all on the surface of it. i still preped it for primer just so i didnt have a nasty looking hood on the car for now.

im going to replace it with a cowl hood either 4 or 6 inch once i figure out which hood i need to clear the 427 sbc with twin turbos that will be going in the car next spring

im curious though have any of u guys every used hoods form this company
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/am...82-4/overview/

i knwo the harwoods are horible and need alot of body work to make look good so im looking at other options, my only requirement is must be a bolt on hood, im done with dealing with pin on hoods

id also think ill prefer the steel over the fiberglass since it should need less ody work to get nice and stright
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  #190 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2013, 07:07 AM
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Just be aware that spraying at night is usually avoided because there are more bugs out and you can bet if they see fresh wet primer they are headed straight for it! If you're spraying in a booth it's probably not a big deal.
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  #191 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2013, 09:54 PM
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once again i want to say thank you to all that have given me advice and told me when i was screwing up and how to fix it

primer dried about 3 hours before i drove the car back home and im in love witht he flat black finish

just got the car home
andim so friggen happy with the way the car came out , still need to block sand n etc , but with the car looks in just primer , im thinking about blocking the car 2 more coats of primer and then a matte clear to finish it off instead of the pure black spi base mixed with blue pearl , and high gloss clear







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  #192 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2013, 10:11 PM
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  #193 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2013, 09:19 AM
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It always looks great when it's one, even, uniform color and SPI Epoxy does look pretty awesome all by itself...but, block sand it, apply more Epoxy where needed (or all over if you chose too) block it nice and straight....and then think about that incredible color...it will be killer.

Good job my friend...the car does in fact look great.

Ray
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  #194 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2013, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
It always looks great when it's one, even, uniform color and SPI Epoxy does look pretty awesome all by itself...but, block sand it, apply more Epoxy where needed (or all over if you chose too) block it nice and straight....and then think about that incredible color...it will be killer.

Good job my friend...the car does in fact look great.

Ray
unfortunatly i had to cheap out on the epoxy, i just dumped a boat load of moeny into opening my computer repair store. The epoxy is summit brand, the guy who helped me primed has used it and said it was pretty decent stuff, and some guys on my local forums have used it and said the same thing. so i got it

i really like the flat/matte black , when my new steel hood comes in were going to play around witht he hood on the car , as i have some ideas

#1 some gloss black stripes
or
#2 get some blue flake or the blue pearl and mix it with some gloss clear and do stripes with that, then mask those off and use a matte clear over the rest of the car

depending on how any of the above turn out

either way the car will be blocked and 2 more coats of expoxy applied , and may even still do the spi pure black base with blue pearl and universal clear

if we do stick with the original plan i wont cheap out on the paint and clear , cheaping out on the epoxy was to insure i had enough money to buy the good base/clear
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  #195 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2013, 12:41 PM
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Actually, a good friend of mine on this site that helped with the painting of his car used Summit Epoxy on his IROC...he said it sanded quite well.

If I can give some advice here, the black Epoxy primers aren't a real deep black...they would be more of a dark, dark gray. If it's a money issue, save your cash up and get some base coat. I'm sure that the car looks great now but, it wouldn't compare to that real color you would get with what we discussed earlier in this thread.

I've never been a fan of adding flake or pearl to catalyzed clear....it's almost impossible to repair if God forbid you ever need too. If I can give you any advice here at all, stick with the original plan and if you do have your heart set on stripes....how about I walk you through steps on ghost stripes...if your interested.

I don't think you necessarily went cheap on the Summit Epoxy...I've heard respectable things about it and I'm sure you'll be fine.

Happy to help with whatever you decide.

Ray
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