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  #196 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2013, 01:03 PM
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i have a bunch of ideas floating around in my head right now , its so hard to choose , wish i could draw really well so i could draw them all out.

my friends did the roof and decklid then handed me the gun to start on the hood since he knew if i screwed up it wouldnt matter since i was junking that hood anyways.

i was nervous as hell the first few passes but when i was done he was like ur doing pretty damn good .
I ended up spraying about 1/2 of the car myself for the first coat,and a good part of the second and only messed up one lil piece on the passenger side right were the door meets the front fender ( got a run in it )

when it goes back in 2 weeks ill let him do the whole thing hopefully the new cowl hood will be here

the only thing we didnt get to primer was the mirrors and rear spoiler but hes going to get them done for me in his spare time this week

btw u werent kidding about the body filler soaking up the paint , did the first coat and looked back a few mins later and u could see the body filler spots really well, before the second coat we hit just the body filler , and then did the second coat and now u really cant see those spots anymore

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  #197 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2013, 01:21 PM
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Yes, I do a rendering (yes I draw) of every job I do (every custom...restorations they should know what it's supposed to look like). It gives the customer an idea of what the project is going to look like after it's done and also, with a couple of different sketches, lets him choose the design he likes. It's not only helpful to the customer, it's helpful to me as well, I get the idea in my head and have an end goal...also, the customer signs off on the sketch and if there are changes, it's easier to track and date the changes as they take place.

I'm glad to hear that you got behind the gun as well...and don't worry about a run...it's easier to work with a painter that gets runs than a painter that gets dry spray...and runs are a lot easier to fix (in most cases) than dry spray.

The fact the primer got sucked into the filler is also a good thing...don't be surprised if you need to do more filler work to get the car super straight, it happens to everybody.

Ray
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  #198 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2013, 08:45 PM
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the car does need a lil more filler , there was a few minor spots that would not show up when it was white and when i stripped it.


my friend fixed the run with a razor blade with masking tape on the sides of the blade , basically he left 1/4 inch of blade showing and ran it up the run in the paint and it took it off

its not that i dont want to spend more money it that i like the matte black look, it just makes the car look mean, if i decide to leave it like this i would get a flat black base

im curious what would blue pearl do inside a flat black base woudl it have the same effect of would it just give it a blue tint all over
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  #199 (permalink)  
Old 07-22-2013, 07:21 AM
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After the first couple of coats of primer vehicles generally need a bit more body work, especially if it's going black.

If you decide to leave it matte black, why not just get SPI's matte black single stage, I recently received a sample from Barry and it is an awesome matte black. There really isn't anything called a matte black base, just matte single stage and matte clear.

As far as adding pearl to a matte finish goes, well, you would be able to see the pearl in the paint when the paint was wet, but, when it dried to the matte finish the pearl effect would be gone because pearls work on light reflection and you with a matte finish, you just don't have that reflection.

Ray
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  #200 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2013, 05:46 PM
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heres a daytime picture and u can see why im throwing away the hood,which btw only has one coat of primer on it , we did that just so the car would be one color



car goes back for round 2 next weekend what grit should i use for black sanding ? 400?
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  #201 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2013, 08:12 PM
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400 grit would be minimum...I prefer 600 wet, but, 400 grit for most base coats will be good.

Ray
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  #202 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2013, 11:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
400 grit would be minimum...I prefer 600 wet, but, 400 grit for most base coats will be good.

Ray
not for the base im going to spray 2 more coats of epoxy after i block sand, once i spray those 2 then im going to block again and then spray the base
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  #203 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 08:10 AM
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Then you can use a coarser grit, like 240...the re-prime will very easily fill those scratches.

Ray
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  #204 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Then you can use a coarser grit, like 240...the re-prime will very easily fill those scratches.

Ray
thanks , i have a pack of 220 paper so ill use that for this block sand , hell the epoxy primer filled the 80 grit scratches nicely
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  #205 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 01:34 PM
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220 grit will work fine...just remember that 80 grit on metal leaves less of a scratch than 80 grit on primer...Epoxy will fill 80 on metal, 80 on primer or filler will not fill as easy as the scratch will be deeper on primer and filler...that's why I recommended 240...to be on the safe side...220 is Okay.

Ray
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  #206 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
220 grit will work fine...just remember that 80 grit on metal leaves less of a scratch than 80 grit on primer...Epoxy will fill 80 on metal, 80 on primer or filler will not fill as easy as the scratch will be deeper on primer and filler...that's why I recommended 240...to be on the safe side...220 is Okay.

Ray
ahh ok i didnt relize that
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  #207 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2013, 03:28 PM
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we almost ( my gf) wrecked the car yesterday was driving it down main street and somone pulled out right infront of us from a side street, she hit the brakes and the pedal went to the floor.

looks like one of the rubber lines burst or one of the steel lines blew out on the front brakes , ended up driving over a curb to avoid broadsiding the other car
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  #208 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2013, 04:03 PM
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Is everybody OK? Any body damage or suspension damage? Damn, that is scary stuff when brakes fail, if you've got a bad brake line it might be a good idea to check the whole system, if one has gone, often more are ready to follow.

Ray
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  #209 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2013, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Is everybody OK? Any body damage or suspension damage? Damn, that is scary stuff when brakes fail, if you've got a bad brake line it might be a good idea to check the whole system, if one has gone, often more are ready to follow.

Ray
yeah were ok, cars ok , she did a good job of keeping the car from hitting anything( she drove it up over the curb and off the other side onto the side street ) , i have minor front bumper/ground fx damage

waiting till next weekend to limp the car back to my friends workshop on the farm so i can put it on his lift and check all the lines , im almost 75% sure its the front rubber line , last time i looked the steel lines were all rust free as is the whole underside of the car

if it is the front rubber line im going to invest in those stainless braided rubber lines earls makes

only other thing i can thing it may have been is one of the front calipers blew out the piston seal , hard to tell with solid rims on the front of the car
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  #210 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2013, 04:45 PM
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These days brake hoses and even remanufactured calipers aren't a big dollar item any more...get to go down the road safe before you get it to go down the road fast.

Ray
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