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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 02:54 PM
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Sounds like you have a firm plan in your head...excellent...if this is what you want, go with it. If I can offer a bit of advice. If your going to remove an engine and install a 427 SBC, why not paint the engine compartment then. That way you won't need to worry about putting Base Coat over top of something that you have laying around...you'll be able to do a much better job as well when the engine bay doesn't have an engine in it.

Ray

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Project89 View Post
i almost forgot do u guys have a recomended brand of body filler ?
i plan on ordering up some supplies to get started tommorow when i get paid ,sanding stuff bodyfiller the epoxy primer etc
I like Rage Gold from Evercoat...I'm sure many other people will have preferences, and many fillers today work well, Rage Gold has served me well for years.

As I've suggested, SPI Black Epoxy Primer, excellent sanding qualities, good build, great corrosion protection. You can go from primer to block sanding to paint and if prepped properly, no sealer needed.

Ray
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Sounds like you have a firm plan in your head...excellent...if this is what you want, go with it. If I can offer a bit of advice. If your going to remove an engine and install a 427 SBC, why not paint the engine compartment then. That way you won't need to worry about putting Base Coat over top of something that you have laying around...you'll be able to do a much better job as well when the engine bay doesn't have an engine in it.

Ray
the 427 is about a year off basically i have a complete shortblock and no funds for the heads/intake/cam needed at this time, prolly should have bought that stuff before i bought the turbochargers lol
though i will admit the shortblock cost alot more then i had planned
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:58 PM
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I like Rage Gold from Evercoat...I'm sure many other people will have preferences, and many fillers today work well, Rage Gold has served me well for years.

Ray

thanks i was looking at the evercoat stuff
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:03 PM
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the 427 is about a year off basically i have a complete shortblock and no funds for the heads/intake/cam needed at this time, prolly should have bought that stuff before i bought the turbochargers lol
though i will admit the shortblock cost alot more then i had planned
Things always end up costing more than the plan...and one more thing...when you think your done...your not...LOL.

Ray
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:31 PM
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Things always end up costing more than the plan...and one more thing...when you think your done...your not...LOL.

Ray
haha aint that the truth

since black cherry is the red with the black what would call the black with the blue pearl?
i wanna look up some pics and see what it looks like, my gf thinks the blue would look better then the red lol
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 04:13 PM
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I've done both, no name that I know of for the blue pearl...or the red for that matter. Just remember, very important, when you mix the pearl into the black, check the stick in the sunlight, this is one case where what you see is what you get after it's sprayed and cleared. Very often less is more, you want it to be subtle and only effected by sunlight, the more pearl you put in the easier other non natural light will have an effect. If the correct amount is added in, only the tops of your body panel directly in contact will show the color of the pearl...it should look plugged in or people have told me that it looks electric.

Don't know if your going to find any pictures of this...it's just something I tried years ago and when I do one, even now I get lots of positive comments.

Another nice feature about doing it the way I outlined...it sprays like regular Black base Coat.

Ray
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Old 06-11-2013, 02:39 AM
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ok so i had a few sheets of paper laying around so for the hell of it i sanded some of the roof, it looks liek somone at some point rolled some latex house paint on the roof, it sands off pretty damn easily but i hit a spot on the roof that took it right down to primer.

i cant be sure if it was just whatever somone put on the car , or if there was original paint under it , so what do i do with it now? take the whole roof down to the original primer or down to metal ?
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:03 AM
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The spraying technique is different between single stage and BC/CC. Base is sprayed to cover with the minimum amount of build (thickness). Base dries quickly so by the time you get to the other end of the car the dryover spray is landing on the other panels (hood, roof, trunk). This dust will not adhere to the semi dry paint. This is the reason you MUST allow the coat to dry and go over it with a tac rag (lightly) with the tac rag fluffed, not like it comes out of the package. If you do not do this the dried over spray will keep the next coats from adhering to the last sprayed coat including the last few coats of clear creating
"THE PEELER"
If you are shooting metalic you must have the gun adjusted with a nice spray pattern so as to not create tiger stripes.

Good luck!
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2013, 07:22 AM
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ok so i had a few sheets of paper laying around so for the hell of it i sanded some of the roof, it looks liek somone at some point rolled some latex house paint on the roof, it sands off pretty damn easily but i hit a spot on the roof that took it right down to primer.

i cant be sure if it was just whatever somone put on the car , or if there was original paint under it , so what do i do with it now? take the whole roof down to the original primer or down to metal ?
A reliable rule of thumb when running into a problem such as this is...if you are unsure of your substrate, remove it...that holds true for not knowing what it is or not knowing how strong it is. Would you build a house on a piece of property not knowing if it's on a flood plane, where 15 feet below the surface is the remains of a garbage dump...(well lots of houses are being built on old garbage dumps but, they have been properly engineered)...you get my drift. Your finished product is only as strong as your foundation. I would take it down to bare metal.

Hope this helps.

Ray
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2013, 04:09 PM
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well i got started hopefully im not screwing anything up
passenger side door
this is were somone took a grinder with a stone wheel and tried to grind down a few spots.

i expected the filler to only fill those grind spots but as u can see its also around it , its dead flat as far as i can tell , can even close my eyes run my hand over and cant tell theres filler there




still have to tackle the bottom of the door

passengerside rear quarter was a small ding


and driver side rear quarter that was pretty messed up , hammerd it out best i could , filler is on a lil thick , waiting for it to harden so i can go sand it




doing anything wrong ?
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Old 06-12-2013, 04:39 PM
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What kind of filler are you using????? Is it body filler that is designed to go on metal or is it glazing/putty filler. if it is a putty type of filler...it can be used over prepped paint...sparsely, not very thick, used as a product to repair minor imperfections. The type of filler that is designed to go on metal is not to be used over paint unless Epoxy primer is used as a substrate and should be used as a substrate over bare metal for this type of filler...and it looks like whatever filler your using is going over paint.

The problem is that all will be well when you prime it and it will look even better when you block it out. When you paint it, it will look great...until 3 to 6 months down the road. The outline of the filler will show up in the paint in the form of a ring. So, it's very important now to figure out what product your using so you can eliminate problems in the future.

It looks as though the car is quite straight if that's all the repair material it's going to take...let's just make sure your using the right material....also use guide coat, the car is white and white will lie to you about straightness.

On a positive note, the way you checked your repair for straightness is right on, I always look away when I fell my repairs...if I can't feel them, chances are primer will solve any leveling problems.

Sorry, but better now than later.

Ray

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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2013, 04:53 PM
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its goign over paint and bare metal , its bondo brand body filler , i was going to order the evercoat stuff but then relized i needed so lil for the car might as well just go get a small can from napa.

yes the entire car is getting primed with the black epoxy primer so looks like im good there , or do u mean that filler has to be used over the epoxy primer and not under it

theres a few spots i could prolly just use the glazing stuff/spot putty on as well , but what u see is about the majority of the repairs the car needs.


before i sand out the whole car to get ready for the primer i will use a guide coat to make sure its stright , for now im just trying to knock out those few spots , friday or saturday the rest of the car will be roughed up and sunday i think were going to shoot the epoxy primer if it gets here in time
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Old 06-12-2013, 05:36 PM
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Okay...I hate to be a wet blanket but, body filler should never go over top of paint or, as I described in my previous post, the paint could ring around the areas where the body filler and paint meet or a feathered. The metal should be roughed up with 80 grit bout 6 inches past the repair area, feather back this surrounding area with a minimum 180 or 220 grit (I feather back with 320 but that's just me). Apply 1 to 2 coats of epoxy primer (if your using SPI, if you apply 1 coat of primer wait 4 hours before you apply your filler, if you put on 2 coats wait 8 hours before applying filler)...apply your filler and block it out smooth...apply another 2 coats of Epoxy primer, allow to cure over night at about 70 degrees...longer is fine and even preferred...block with minimum 400 dry or 600 wet and paint.

Filler can be used over and under SPI Epoxy primer...filler should not be used over top of paint. Glazing putty can be used over top of paint...in minimal amounts. The reason is that glazing putty is a tighter product and not as subject to shrinking when primer or paint is applied over top...filler is a sponge and very porous.

Your painting your Camaro in a dark color, any ringing around the filler will show very quickly and be very noticeable. If I was teaching at a school now, I wouldn't allow you to continue. I'm sorry but to do it right the areas that need repair should be taken down to bare metal. You can go ahead and leave it as is but I have told you of the potential problems down the road and I have seen it happen over and over again.

I guess you have several options,

1) remove the filler and prep the surface for epoxy primer and refill the areas that need repair and prime the whole car...

2) remove the filler, prep the surface and apply filler to the bare metal and prime the whole car.

3) leave it as is and prime the whole car and take your chances.

If you choose #3 what you have going for you is that the filler does not look very deep and if you finish your filler real fine like with a 320 or 400 grit paper prime the areas, let the primer cure and then prime the entire car and block sand the car...you may sneak one past the teacher and get away with it. Again, this is not the recommended method and if you go this route be prepared for problems down the road.

Even cars that are done by the book have a problem with the paint sinking...for all kinds of different reasons...If there is enough clear on the vehicle and the sinking isn't to drastic, often the sinking can be color sanded and polished. I pride myself on not having a problem with body work sinking...one of the reasons is that I don't put filler over top of paint, another reason is I finish my filler in 320 grit so if there is any sinking it's minimal, not noticeable and when I color sand and polish...no sinking is visible.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but if I don't tell you now and something goes wrong down the road...I would feel responsible...I hope you understand.

Ray
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2013, 05:55 PM
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getting there but not quite yet , im going to knock it all off anyways after rereading ur post and redo it , it isnt thick at all in most spots maybe 1/16th but i am not going to chance it. it is such a small amount of stuff that it wont take long to redo and i want it done were i wont have problems down the road


thnx for the advice
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