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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2013, 05:03 PM
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Thank You...for understanding...Now I'll be able to sleep tonight.

It looks as though you did a real good job on getting your filler straight, the edges seem to be feathered nicely so Kudos there.

I'm sure when you do it next time it won't take you nearly as long and hey, look at the practice you got, the way it looked even with the filler over the paint, I'm sure it's going to be straight and worthy or a black (and whatever color of pearl) paint job.

Thanks Again

Ray
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Thank You...for understanding...Now I'll be able to sleep tonight.

It looks as though you did a real good job on getting your filler straight, the edges seem to be feathered nicely so Kudos there.

I'm sure when you do it next time it won't take you nearly as long and hey, look at the practice you got, the way it looked even with the filler over the paint, I'm sure it's going to be straight and worthy or a black (and whatever color of pearl) paint job.

Thanks Again

Ray

yeah it was my fault for not reading properly the first time, i was under the impression that if using epoxy primer thati could put the filler over the paint

glad i asked if i was doing anything wrong
once i relized i had to do it over again first thing i though was well i got in some good practice

i did have my gf come outside as she had not seen what i did and had her close her eyes and run her hand over the door and she couldnt feel a thing , she said she just felt it being flat
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:16 PM
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That's exactly what you want...not feeling a thing when checking body work. I'm glad you have a great attitude, I know some people that may get a little P.O.ed over something like this but, you did get some valuable experience.

A good thing to remember, again, when you use your block for sanding, apply no pressure on the block, use guide coat, lots of patience and after all that...there's nothing nicer than a Black car that is as straight as an arrow. People will comment on the paint job, but if you do the prep right, they'll really be commenting on how straight the car is.

Any questions at all, keep asking.

Ray
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
That's exactly what you want...not feeling a thing when checking body work. I'm glad you have a great attitude, I know some people that may get a little P.O.ed over something like this but, you did get some valuable experience.

A good thing to remember, again, when you use your block for sanding, apply no pressure on the block, use guide coat, lots of patience and after all that...there's nothing nicer than a Black car that is as straight as an arrow. People will comment on the paint job, but if you do the prep right, they'll really be commenting on how straight the car is.

Any questions at all, keep asking.

Ray
with the guide coat can i use regular rattle can primer if its on very thin?
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:31 PM
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Yes you can, seeing that your getting a Black Epoxy, try and get a couple or 3 rattle cans of white or Buff (yellow) Lacquer Primer...if you can get Lacquer primer, if not any light colored aerosol primer is fine. Spray on just enough so that when you block sand the Camaro, your be able to see the primer disappear as you wet sand. When you get to that stage, let me know and I'll give you pointers that will ensure that your car will be straight and what to look for.

Ray
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:43 PM
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thanks i was looking at the evercoat stuff
Man, I gotta say, look at the Marson Platinum. It's a fraction of the cost and works just as well. The Rage Gold is just so overpriced. Platinum is also real creamy, sands well.
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Old 06-13-2013, 05:06 AM
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ok ill be getting out of work in 2 hours , need to stop at the store and pick up some more supplies

should i gab one of those red or green paint removal wheels u stick in a drill ? or am i better off just sanding the paint off by hand
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:56 AM
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What you use to take the paint off with isn't as important as taking the paint off. If you wish to purchase a wheel that takes paint off, that's fine, just remember to rough up the bare metal with a coarse grit of paper before applying filler...also for the amount of paint it seems that you will be needing to take off, try sand paper...it may take a little longer but at least you know that the metal will be roughed up.

Ray
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:42 AM
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with a sunburnt as i got yesterday ( moving decorative stone for my bosses father all morning then working on the car for the rest of the day) im just going to grab that paint stripper wheel to minimize my time in the sun today.got burnt bad enough that i started peeling few hours after i came inside yesterday
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:56 AM
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Totally understand, make sure you clean the stripper off with lots of water and or even Wax and grease remover, dry it off completely before applying filler...good luck my friend.

Ray
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Old 06-13-2013, 05:11 PM
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i didnt get a chemical stripper , i bought one of those 3m wheels u stick in a drill sort of looks liek a cross between a scotch bright pad and a wire wheel

got calle din to my other job but heading home soon , when i get home ill work on it , ill do the same thing as last time except this time remove all the original paint/primer and rescuff with an 80 grit paper then reapply body filler.

i can also take my time a bit more now as we arent going to prime the car till the 2nd weekend in july

speaking of wich once i use the body filler on bare metal since its going to be sitting like that for a few eeks do i need to get any kind of sealer or anything on it ?
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Old 06-13-2013, 05:22 PM
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as a DIY guy myself, I found a wire wheel on an angle grinder worked best for stripping my Mustang. I have a disc stripper too like yours for the drill, but it was just too slow going, and the drill doesn't spin with nearly the rpms that an angle grinder did. I picked up a $30 Black and Decker from Wal*Mart and went to town. Boy does that give you hand fatigue though with the constant vibration. It also tends to burnish the metal (smooths it), but this was an easy fix by going over it with a DA with 80 grit to just put tooth in the metal.

You could put that filler over epoxy is you can. And I've literally had filler exposed for over a year on some parts of my car. It was in a shop the entire time, but there is no need to get sealer over it immediately. In fact it's probably better to let it wait if it means it will let it cure and shrink faster. If your car is sitting outside I would get several coats of epoxy over the filler.
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Old 06-13-2013, 05:26 PM
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The idea of putting Epoxy primer on it is what would seal it. If your going to wait a while before applying your Epoxy, keep it dry, and scuff the bare metal and filler areas ( even a red scotch brite) before you apply the epoxy, scuffing the area will remove any surface oxidization from the metal...in an Ideal world, it would be Epoxy primer, filler, epoxy primer. As I mentioned, keep it dry, scuff it and prime it.

Ray
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
The idea of putting Epoxy primer on it is what would seal it. If your going to wait a while before applying your Epoxy, keep it dry, and scuff the bare metal and filler areas ( even a red scotch brite) before you apply the epoxy, scuffing the area will remove any surface oxidization from the metal...in an Ideal world, it would be Epoxy primer, filler, epoxy primer. As I mentioned, keep it dry, scuff it and prime it.

Ray
thanks will do, i have it pretty easy here as humidity prolly never goes over 8-10% so as long as it dont rain u could actually stick a piece of bare steel outside and it takes forever to start to rust


just waiting for it to cool off a lil more before i go fix what i did yesterday , my skin was fireengine red by the time i finished the other day, probably one of the worst sunburns ive ever goten
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:42 PM
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Without a doubt the sunburn does suck...the low humidity however is a bonus. I remember painting out West where it's really dry, especially in Winter...that combination with my hands contently being in contact with thinner, my hands would be so dry that when I triggered the gun my right hand would start bleeding. That sucked.

Make it straight my friend.

Ray
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