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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2013, 10:23 PM
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well quess what i found when i got rid of the bondo and then paint



as i sanded it the first time i was thinking to myself man i dont rember putting body fille over this far
now i know why it was there.

i was able to acess the backside of most of it and got it hammered out the best i could

still more sanding on this to do, and need to add a tiny bit more filler, but ran out of light so i called it a night


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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2013, 10:33 PM
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Now I bet your happy you took it all the way down.

Ray
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2013, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Now I bet your happy you took it all the way down.

Ray
sure am wish i had a garage i could take the whole car down to metal to see what else is hiding.

i didnt catch it when i hammered out the lil bit the other day but sure enough stucc my hand way down into the quarter form the trunk and was able to reach the majority of it

that 3m wheel worked pretty good but ended up breaking out the sander with an 80grit disc took it down real fast , wa scarefull i didnt get the sheetmetal hot while i did it, prolly wouldnt take long to take the whole car down but i just dont have a place to keep the car protected from the weather
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:45 PM
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I'm glad you mentioned that you'd like to take it down to bare metal, that's exactly why cars are stripped, so that you know what your dealing with. I understand that you would need a place to keep the car inside to strip the car. So often people don't understand why stripping is recommended, what you have here is a minor reason, you saw one area that was suspect.

Ray
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
I'm glad you mentioned that you'd like to take it down to bare metal, that's exactly why cars are stripped, so that you know what your dealing with. I understand that you would need a place to keep the car inside to strip the car. So often people don't understand why stripping is recommended, what you have here is a minor reason, you saw one area that was suspect.

Ray

how do i deal with the edges were i removed the paint/primer? same way i feather out the body filler i assume
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Old 06-14-2013, 01:49 AM
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Not to butt in but yes i agree with widetrack bc/cc definately the way to go. You can also get tinted primer as per the color your using sealer like he said not necessary just more money as long is your primer is uniform meaning dont sand through to bondo and try to spray your color over it you'll end up with light and dark spots. to get a nice flate surface block sand and fill prime as many coats as it takes use a mist coat of black guide coat over your primer layers so when your blocking your primer the guide coat will show low spots. I could go on but i'd be here all night!
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:04 AM
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Thanks reevislong, it's always good to get confirmation. The only problem is that the primer he's using is going to be black (he's also painting he car a dark color) so I've recommended using an aerosol of white or buff lacquer primer as guide coat.

Yes, feather the edges of the paint and the body filler...try and get them as smooth as possible and the primer will help in taking care of the rest.

Ray
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:11 PM
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ok now this im going to need help with , im having some serious over heating issues in my fuel system , car runs fine and starts to lean out as the fuel lines and rail heat up, anothe rmember of tgo has this same issue with his turbo car.

my issue is a lil worse as if i shut the car off the the engine will not refire till the fuel rails and injectors lines etc temps come back down to around 110*f

with a short drive yesterday i measured the temps of these items after the car had been off for 20 mins and i couldnt get it to refire

injectors/fuel rial were 158* lines slightly cooler , car would not refire till around 110/115* and then ran without issues just a lil lean


my idea is trying out some naca ducts in the hood to direct air over the fuel rials/injectors hopefully theese will keep underhood temps in check

these are the ducts im talking about


im thinking about buying a steel or fiberglass flat rs style hood to put theese into sorta something like this


2 big ones infront so the incomming air hits the fuel rails and injectors directly , and then maybe 2 on the back of the hood near the windshield mounted the other way to let hot air out

what would be better to get a fiberglass hood or steel , most of these vents come in abs plastic or carbon fiber, maybe i can get some in steel im not sure , whats the best method of attaching them and molding them in so it looks like they belong there
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:38 PM
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Well as far as if this will solve your cooling problem, I don't know, but it should help. Steel or fiberglass, well more of a personal preference and I would check fit issues of both before I made a purchase.

As far as how to attach the scoops, I would rough up the areas of both the scoop and the hood where they meet and apply some panel bond adhesive, I use 3M's 8116 body panel adhesive, apply a thin even coat of ahesive, clamp in place and allow the proper cure time. Then you can use either a short strand fiber glass filler followed by regular body filler, block sand, prime and paint. This product (along with Nortons product and a host of other manufacturer's) will do the job.

Hope this helps.

Ray
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Well as far as if this will solve your cooling problem, I don't know, but it should help. Steel or fiberglass, well more of a personal preference and I would check fit issues of both before I made a purchase.

As far as how to attach the scoops, I would rough up the areas of both the scoop and the hood where they meet and apply some panel bond adhesive, I use 3M's 8116 body panel adhesive, apply a thin even coat of ahesive, clamp in place and allow the proper cure time. Then you can use either a short strand fiber glass filler followed by regular body filler, block sand, prime and paint. This product (along with Nortons product and a host of other manufacturer's) will do the job.

Hope this helps.

Ray

thanks we use these on the dragster but they are rivited in place , not something i want to do with this car lol

the rivets we use on the race car arent pop rivits they are the ones u pop in place then hammer down

as far as if they work or not in therory it should work , i was told to try a cowl hood but from experiance with my turbo vs car with a 3 inch cowl hood i know they dont really lower underhood temps
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2013, 08:02 PM
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The vents would most definitely be a better choice for lowering under hood temperatures...You will be expert enough by the time you get all the work done on your car that getting these vents to look like they seamlessly belong won't be a problem...LOL

Ray
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2013, 08:52 PM
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haha i dont know about an expert but should have enough practice to make me decent at it
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2013, 09:00 PM
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You just wait until you get primer on that puppy...I'm going to get so anal with you to get the car straight that you will be showing other people how to do it...LOL I can tell by your attitude that good enough isn't going to fly, you want it done right...I like that.

Ray
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2013, 09:36 PM
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Is it me or did Jerry Sandusky just enter the room?
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2013, 06:05 AM
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LOL....After I posted, I was wondering who was going to have a comment like yours, trust me, Jerry didn't enter the room...but, I sure did think of editing...I hope you know what I meant...LOL...I'll choose my wording more carefully in the future Lizer.

Ray
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