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  #121 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2013, 06:09 PM
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I don't use mine much except for stripping...I have several and for a smooth sander at a good price, check out 3M's part number 20327...much like the Dynabraid but less cash...But, all in time.

Ray

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  #122 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2013, 01:06 PM
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after closer inspeaction of the front bumper cover there is only spider cracking on 2 parts of it , should i strip the entire thing or just were its cracking ?

also napa wa sno help they couldnt tell me if they had the bumper stripper so i found this on summitracing

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/smm-77713/overview/

i have to order some parts formt hem anyways is that a decent product
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  #123 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2013, 01:13 PM
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Sem is a good product, I wouldn't hesitate to use it. As far as the bumpers go, your call, I can't see it but I suppose I could ask a few questions that might help you decide.

You mentioned earlier that you had applied some Rustoleum paint on the car...where the bumpers painted with that as well?

How many paint jobs do the bumpers have on them?

If it cracked 2 months after you paint it...how pissed off would you be?

Ray
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  #124 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2013, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Sem is a good product, I wouldn't hesitate to use it. As far as the bumpers go, your call, I can't see it but I suppose I could ask a few questions that might help you decide.

You mentioned earlier that you had applied some Rustoleum paint on the car...where the bumpers painted with that as well?

How many paint jobs do the bumpers have on them?

If it cracked 2 months after you paint it...how pissed off would you be?

Ray
no rusto on the bumpers, just the hood was done.
it apears the paint ont he bumpercovers is original and in good shape other then the cracking

yeah id be prettyy pissed

im just nervous about stripping the covers and screwing something up
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  #125 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2013, 01:30 PM
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If your confident that it's original paint and it looks good...stripping the effected areas only will work.

Ray
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  #126 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2013, 06:26 PM
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Its been awhile since I did my bumpers but I believe thats what I used, I got at O'Rielys auto parts and at autozone here local. And as far as stripping the whole bumper thats a question only can figure out. Myself I stripped all mine because it had 3 layers of differant paint jobs on it. I just did small spots like 1-2 foot at a time so the stripper did not set to long in one area before I started to clean the stripper off. Hope this Helps.
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  #127 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2013, 09:48 PM
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thanks guys ill prolly strip the entire thing , im putting a hell of alot of work in this car to screw it up by not doing the entire thing

once the stripper starts to work what are u using to get the paint off razor blade /scrapper?
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  #128 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2013, 10:00 PM
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hell i went outside and snapped some pics somehow i missed the 2 screw holes and one slight tear in it




under the parking light u can see to screw holes and to the right of the light u can see a small tear , can these be repaired ?
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  #129 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2013, 04:20 AM
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I use a scrapper No razor blades on rubber bumpers...after you have as much paint off as possible, wash, dry, sand with 240 and epoxy primer.

The problems in your bumper can be repaired...There are many bumper repair kits out there...I've even used body panel adhesive....and for the small areas that you have, that might be the quickest fix.

Ray
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  #130 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2013, 06:27 AM
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The only time you want to use stripper on a cover is when there's a lot of paint.
If that is orig paint you should sand it off with 180 being careful not to sand the raw rubber to much.... after the paint is off you want to sand the rest of the primer and rubber with 320 ,this will smooth out any fuzziness in the rubber from sanding...Tape off those semi black head light buckets ,you wont be able to sand them proper with the cover on the car,OR do what I did and remove the cover...and the bottom spoiler,so you can get all the paint out of the cracks creaveses and seams so there wont be any peeling around the edges...
tears and cracks should be repaired from the backside using STAINLESS screen by melting it in good with a soldering iron this will reinforce it and keep it from cracking again...You can also glue the screen on but scuff and clean well so the glue sticks best.I use 2 part epoxy glue on my covers topped off with flexible bumper putty from evercoat or ez sand putty never bondo...after my cracks and tears are glued ,then I epoxy prime (SPI epoxyprimer) before doing ANY filler(or putty) work...The putty goes on top of the primer always..be sure to clean raw rubber with water born W&G remover especially the spider cracks use a stiff brush on them if you need too and use a blower to blow the excess out of the spider cracksand do it more than once at least twice to get all the wax out ....You can brush the epoxy onto the spider cracks and use a bondo squeegie to force it all the way in ,when that drys sand the spot and spray epoxy on the whole cover (two coats) ....then your ready to putty ....when all that is done two more coats of epoxy and its ready for paint prep....
Get a DA even an electric DA is better than a drill ...dont use a drill on that cover, not ever, you'll put dig marks all over it and you wont even know they're there untill its painted....
Did I miss anything?????
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  #131 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2013, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
The only time you want to use stripper on a cover is when there's a lot of paint.
If that is orig paint you should sand it off with 180 being careful not to sand the raw rubber to much.... after the paint is off you want to sand the rest of the primer and rubber with 320 ,this will smooth out any fuzziness in the rubber from sanding...Tape off those semi black head light buckets ,you wont be able to sand them proper with the cover on the car,OR do what I did and remove the cover...and the bottom spoiler,so you can get all the paint out of the cracks creaveses and seams so there wont be any peeling around the edges...
tears and cracks should be repaired from the backside using STAINLESS screen by melting it in good with a soldering iron this will reinforce it and keep it from cracking again...You can also glue the screen on but scuff and clean well so the glue sticks best.I use 2 part epoxy glue on my covers topped off with flexible bumper putty from evercoat or ez sand putty never bondo...after my cracks and tears are glued ,then I epoxy prime (SPI epoxyprimer) before doing ANY filler(or putty) work...The putty goes on top of the primer always..be sure to clean raw rubber with water born W&G remover especially the spider cracks use a stiff brush on them if you need too and use a blower to blow the excess out of the spider cracksand do it more than once at least twice to get all the wax out ....You can brush the epoxy onto the spider cracks and use a bondo squeegie to force it all the way in ,when that drys sand the spot and spray epoxy on the whole cover (two coats) ....then your ready to putty ....when all that is done two more coats of epoxy and its ready for paint prep....
Get a DA even an electric DA is better than a drill ...dont use a drill on that cover, not ever, you'll put dig marks all over it and you wont even know they're there untill its painted....
Did I miss anything?????
Thanks for chiming in Mike...I think it's safe to say that doing rubber bumpers is a PITA. I agree with much of what you posted, however, when it comes to spider cracking like the OP has on his bumpers, if they where mine they would be striped. You just never know how bad the cracking is and in my opinion, if there is cracking, there won't be any after it's striped.

I agree that sanding the paint is a viable option, if the right equipment was available...a drill with a sander attachment is not the right equipment. That's a major reason why I recommended the stripper.

If I can add to method of repairing the rubber cover with respect to tares. The tares should be V'ed on both sides before applying any repair material, just like Ving heavier metal before welding. I've had great success using body panel adhesive on small holes in covers...by roughing up the area around the hole with 180 grit, you can fill the hole, let it cure, sand and apply primer. The problem here is the cost of the adhesive...depending on brand, it may run $25 and up for the 2 part kit.

As far as getting a DA...YES...If you have a drill with a sanding attachment, you have a drill.........with sandpaper where the drill bit should go.

Thanks Mike
Ray
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  #132 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2013, 03:48 PM
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Is it me or did Jerry Sandusky just enter the room?
Thanks for the laugh at Ray's expense, I'm glad to see he laughed along.
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  #133 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2013, 07:06 PM
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Progress on 442 conv

Have not been on in a while been busy working long hours. Posted some pics on the progress on this car, took the body off the chassis and started the bodywork and skim coating the pitted chassis mounted both the body and chassis on two rotissuries. Makes working on this much easier......
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  #134 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2013, 07:18 PM
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^ sorry to post on your thread was supposed to go under new thread. once again i am sorry
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  #135 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2013, 08:53 PM
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^ sorry to post on your thread was supposed to go under new thread. once again i am sorry
its ok stuff happens lol
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