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Old 06-09-2013, 04:39 AM
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getting real paint on my camaro

ok so im preping to get my camaro painted here very soon
i have one of the summit single stage kits here for the paint ) black cherry pearl) , this is the kit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...p317/overview/

i have some body work to do on the car
#1 fix 2 drilled holes in the rear decklid

#2 fix crease in the passenger side door .......
normally i would replace the door but the doors/hinges on this car are perfect, no sag/no rattles and i can close the door with 2 fingers. very very rare on a 3rd generation camaro. due to this i dont want to replace the damaged door and have to deal with hinge pin kits and all that goes with it
the damage is not bad but will need some body filler to get stright again

#3 fix minor dent on driverside rear quarter panel, this will also need some bodyfiller to be made stright again

#4 fix a few minor dime to penny sized dents


my biggest thing is im unsure what primer to use on the car since it has plastic bumper covers

with the exception of the roof the rest of the car can be scuffed and painted , the roof however has to be taken down to bare metal

should i be using an epxoy primer on the whole car ,or epoxy on roof and bumper covers only, then a standard or etching primer on the rest of the car ?

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Old 06-09-2013, 08:36 AM
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epoxy is all you really need if you can find one that sands easily and its buildable ....
SS urathane is good for solid colors only for black cherry you should use a BC/CC
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Old 06-09-2013, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
epoxy is all you really need if you can find one that sands easily and its buildable ....
SS urathane is good for solid colors only for black cherry you should use a BC/CC
i was going to get a gallon of the summit racing epoxy primer so i wasnt mixing brands of primer and paint, is there a specific color i should go with ? they have it in grey, flat white and flat black

if thats the case im thinking i should go with one of the blue or silvers i was originally thinking about instead of the black cherry
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Old 06-09-2013, 04:17 PM
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I can appreciate you wanting to stay with all of the same product through out your paint job...however...as long as you are using a quality product, it doesn't matter if you use one brand of primer underneath another brand of base coat with yet another manufacturer's clear as a top coat. Mike (Deadbodyman) is right, an Epoxy primer with good building properties and sanding qualities is all you need. If you are looking at painting your car Black Cherry, use the darkest Epoxy primer you can find.

I would recommend SPI's Epoxy primer, good build, great rust protection and better than normal sanding properties. SPI also carries an excellent line of clears that will compete with anything on the market today. The prices on these products are right, shipping is free and your getting a very high quality refinish material, as good as anything PPG, Dupont or however puts out.

If your interested on painting your car Cherry Black on a budget, PM me and I'll give you an idea that will save you a substantial amount of cash.

Hope this Helps.

Ray
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Old 06-09-2013, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
I can appreciate you wanting to stay with all of the same product through out your paint job...however...as long as you are using a quality product, it doesn't matter if you use one brand of primer underneath another brand of base coat with yet another manufacturer's clear as a top coat. Mike (Deadbodyman) is right, an Epoxy primer with good building properties and sanding qualities is all you need. If you are looking at painting your car Black Cherry, use the darkest Epoxy primer you can find.

I would recommend SPI's Epoxy primer, good build, great rust protection and better than normal sanding properties. SPI also carries an excellent line of clears that will compete with anything on the market today. The prices on these products are right, shipping is free and your getting a very high quality refinish material, as good as anything PPG, Dupont or however puts out.

If your interested on painting your car Cherry Black on a budget, PM me and I'll give you an idea that will save you a substantial amount of cash.

Hope this Helps.

Ray
thats good to know i was worried about mixing since i have heard stories of bad thngs happeneing when mixing brands

i wanted to stick with a single stage cause this is going to be a weekend thing. i have a friend who is going to lay down the paint for me , but he moved to las vegas. he comes back here to visit his parents once every 2 weeks.

the plan was for me to do all the body work and when he comes back we would prime the car, then 2 weeks later when he came back again we would spray the paint

basically we have one day a weekend to do this, with a bc/cc dont the base and clear coat have to sprayed the same day within a certian time of each other?


we also dont have a booth to spray it in, and the one body shop in town wont rent out theres, what we planned on doing is building a frame out of some 1 inch pvc pipe that would could enclose with heavy plastic tarps and we would use some fans for ventilation.

this will be inside his workshop at the farm, the makeshift booth is really just to keep dust from ppl walking in and out of the shop from getting to the car, and to protect the rest of the shop from overspray


thanks for the help and insight guys , and ill deff send u a pm as black cherry is really my first choice in color
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Old 06-09-2013, 05:34 PM
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With a home made/make shift booth, all the more reason to use base/clear. If you get dirt in your clear on a BC/CC paint job, you can sand the area that has dirt or dust and polish the clear. If it's single stage with whatever metallic or pearl you have in your paint, you can't sand out the imperfection and polish, you will knock off the top of the metallic or pearl and it will be noticeable....in all probability...more noticeable than the dirt.

Shooting BC/CC does take a little longer than single stage, however, the difference in time should not be the motivating factor for choosing SS over BC/CC. Look at it this way, if you spray 3 coats of SS and it takes you 2 1/2 hours to paint your car...whereas BC/CC would be 3 coats of base...should take you, 2 to 2 1/2 hours, plus 2 coats of clear, lets say another 2 hours (That's being very liberal with the clear coat time, in actuality, laying down base is often faster than SS because BC flashes much faster than Single Stage). For 2 extra hours of painting time, the argument of SS over BC/CC because of time shouldn't be part of the decision making process.

Hope this helps your decision making process.

Ray
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Old 06-09-2013, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
With a home made/make shift booth, all the more reason to use base/clear. If you get dirt in your clear on a BC/CC paint job, you can sand the area that has dirt or dust and polish the clear. If it's single stage with whatever metallic or pearl you have in your paint, you can't sand out the imperfection and polish, you will knock off the top of the metallic or pearl and it will be noticeable....in all probability...more noticeable than the dirt.

Shooting BC/CC does take a little longer than single stage, however, the difference in time should not be the motivating factor for choosing SS over BC/CC. Look at it this way, if you spray 3 coats of SS and it takes you 2 1/2 hours to paint your car...whereas BC/CC would be 3 coats of base...should take you, 2 to 2 1/2 hours, plus 2 coats of clear, lets say another 2 hours (That's being very liberal with the clear coat time, in actuality, laying down base is often faster than SS because BC flashes much faster than Single Stage). For 2 extra hours of painting time, the argument of SS over BC/CC because of time shouldn't be part of the decision making process.

Hope this helps your decision making process.

Ray
ahhh ok i was preparing for alot more time for laying down the paint, if it will only take an extra 1-2 hours to do a bc/cc that is deffinatly doable
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Old 06-09-2013, 05:50 PM
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black cherry in bc/cc
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...0-12/overview/

what does black sealer required mean?
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Old 06-09-2013, 06:44 PM
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If they recommend a Black Sealer for Black Cherry paint, it usually means that their Black Cherry doesn't cover that well. I prefer not to use a sealer at all, if your prep work is done properly and your substrate is consistent and tight (Epoxy Primer is considered a good substrate)...there is NO need for a sealer.

"What Sealer Required" means is that they would like to sell you SEALER because they REQUIRE more money from you.

Ray
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Old 06-09-2013, 06:51 PM
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it means the sealer is black but if your using a black epoxy right from the start you wont need a sealer ,epoxy is the best sealer too I also prefer SPI epoxy primer from start to finish...I think its actually cheaper in the long run...around 100.00 a gallon ...
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Old 06-09-2013, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
If they recommend a Black Sealer for Black Cherry paint, it usually means that their Black Cherry doesn't cover that well. I prefer not to use a sealer at all, if your prep work is done properly and your substrate is consistent and tight (Epoxy Primer is considered a good substrate)...there is NO need for a sealer.

"What Sealer Required" means is that they would like to sell you SEALER because they REQUIRE more money from you.

Ray
ahh ok so that woiuld mean if i used a black epoxy primer that would be the sealer

i got ur pm and i think im going to go that route as its not much more then i had budgeted. right now i have 450 bucks to spend on the paint materials , excluding stuf fliek sand paper and stuff for prep and tape etc

in that pm u said spi has a clear that would save me 100$'s over what wa sin the pm , what would the difference be between the 2 besides price, does the more exspensive one make a noticable difference in the paint job

im also going to have to watch on which activator i get as temps are starting to routinly go over 90* here during the day and mid 60's - 70* at night
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Old 06-09-2013, 06:54 PM
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Where you been Ray?
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Old 06-09-2013, 07:28 PM
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All of the Clear products that I listed in the PM would perform equal to or better than a comparable product from a major manufacturer. In this case I can give you my personal preference...that is Universal Clear. I like the depth, and polishability. It lays down very nicely and is user friendly...now, that's not to say that the others aren't...this is my personal preference. if you need more info on clears, let me know and I'll try and answer any and or all questions.

Activator is very important...especially this time of year...always remember, you're better off to have a product that cures a little slower than one that cures to fast.

Ray
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Old 06-09-2013, 07:46 PM
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thanks again for all the help , i wasnt going to post up , i was just going to order that single stage stuff but im glad i decided to post and ask.

i do have one last question for now , i dont have a buffing machine, my plan was to take it over to the autobody shop in town and have them do it. is there a certian timeframe that this needs to be done in?


other then that this thread has been a great help, i have one more question on how to repair a dent on the passenger door but ill wait till i can take some pics tongiht so u guys can see exactly what im dealing with
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Old 06-09-2013, 08:11 PM
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Taking it to a body shop for polishing is fine...but...to color sand and buff an entire average car is between 40 and 60 hours ... X ... what ever the shop charges per hour...plus polishing materials etc. You could be looking at a $3,000.00 very quickly. Now, I understand that maybe you weren't looking at cutting and buffing an entire car. The $3,000.00 example will give you an idea of how fast the cost of this type of work adds up and the cost of a polisher in the scheme of things is not that much and will pay for itself on the first job.

Maybe wait another 2 or 4 weeks until the cash is saved for that polisher too.

Ray
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