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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2010, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pepi
You are replacing a FI motor with a normally aspirated/ carburetor motor?
Well, yes and no...I have a bastard of a car actually, its a 65 pro street Mercury Comet, with an LT1 and 700R4 in it Im replacing it with a 355 Small block that makes about 425hp. then adding Professional Injection III fuel injection. for me its a no brainer, cause I have the motor, and it works great, made my 3200lb Camaro go 11.67. Plus it will give the car that more HOT ROD look instead of that retro basterdized look. Considering its a Ford with a Chevy motor, its basterdized enough already.

http://www.professional-products.com/EFI_3.php


Here is the car.







Quote:
Originally Posted by pepi
I guess if the alternator brackets are the same measurements looks like it is a no brainer...

How about the pulley alignment water pump and damper .. are they parallel or is the water pump out?
Well as far as the water pump and Alternator, im picking up a new water pump and alternator in about 20 minutes, just for the peace of mind that its all correct, before I tell this guy its his pulleys that are F'ed.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2011, 11:29 AM
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I think I got it all lined up. A little shimming and some shamming,and the belt now rides on the rear of the pulley and does not hang over the edge.

Does anyone know, if at operating RPMS do the belts tend to want to walk to the front of the pulley toward the front of the car? If so then Im good..
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2011, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat
Does anyone know, if at operating RPMS do the belts tend to want to walk to the front of the pulley toward the front of the car? If so then Im good..
Everyone i have seen will walk alittle . I thought that was why they made them with the plates on the front side of the alt pulley and the crank pulley to keep the belt from riding off. JMO


Cole
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2011, 12:35 PM
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Way to go, it does take some ............. adjustments sometimes, bolts right on is a bit of a myth. Then agin if it was to easy it might not be as much fun.. Thats going to be a nice set up.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2011, 10:56 PM
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What was the actual problem, what part was throwing everything off??
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2011, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ericnova72
What was the actual problem, what part was throwing eveything off??
I dont really know..
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2011, 11:02 PM
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Did you change waterpumps??
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2011, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ericnova72
Did you change waterpumps??
Actually no.I just put a spacer behind the Altenator pulley, and 2 washers behind the bracket.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2011, 06:41 PM
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Glad you got it and hope it stay's for you. Just keep a eye on it. JMO


Cole
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2011, 02:13 AM
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If you are running this timing belt without any flanges on the pulleys I think you are asking for tossed belts. This was done 50 years ago to save weight..we didn't have to run idler pulley and bracket however trying to get everything lined up exactly square and keeping it there can be a real problem. The fix ftom the Jurassic age was to machine a pair of guide rings and tack weld them to one of the larger pulleys. This will keep the belt tracking. Our idler pulleys have massive flanges for this purpose. They are not self aligning as the pullrys have no crown.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2011, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bentwings
If you are running this timing belt without any flanges on the pulleys I think you are asking for tossed belts. This was done 50 years ago to save weight..we didn't have to run idler pulley and bracket however trying to get everything lined up exactly square and keeping it there can be a real problem. The fix ftom the Jurassic age was to machine a pair of guide rings and tack weld them to one of the larger pulleys. This will keep the belt tracking. Our idler pulleys have massive flanges for this purpose. They are not self aligning as the pullrys have no crown.
There are flanges on the smaller Alternator pulley.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2011, 09:48 AM
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Ok I missed that in your pictures. 75% cure.

You will still need the alt to be very rigidly mounted and it must track dead true in the adjustment. The timing belt in automotive apps is normally run with a 1/4-3/8 loose play in the belt when hot. The block, heads and manifold expand and contract quite a bit with temp so you need to adjust the belt with a hot motor or it will be too tight. Alum heads move even more. Even so with a belt that long and only the small alt flanges it may jump off on a high speed blast if it is out of line or the bracket flexes.

I run a 3 in (metric equav.) 8 mm belt on my blown motor and it is scary loose when cold but it snugs up nicely at 190 deg. I think I adjusted it once in about 10k miles last year. If you look at the wear marks it tracks all over the pulleys even though it is nearly perfectly in align. I used these belts extensively in industry where they run 24/7 but they are run much tighter doing the job of accurately timing industrial processes.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2011, 04:13 PM
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If his pulley set-up is like mine it will have the flanges on the alternator pulley and the crank pulley, My water-pump pulley don't have the flange.
And by his pictures he has basically the same set-up i have flanges and all. JMO Your "CRANK PULLEY" does have the flange also don't it ? I can't tell by the pic.

Cole
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2011, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eloc431962
If his pulley set-up is like mine it will have the flanges on the alternator pulley and the crank pulley, My water-pump pulley don't have the flange.
And by his pictures he has basically the same set-up i have flanges and all. JMO Your "CRANK PULLEY" does have the flange also don't it ? I can't tell by the pic.

Cole
My crank pulley does NOT have the flanges.only the alternator.
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