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Old 11-08-2006, 10:31 PM
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gimme some tips on 3m Trizac buffing system

Heres the deal. I've got a 67' camaro RS in my shop. I'm painting it Nassau Blue metallic using Nason BC/CC (497-00 clearcoat). I have a complete Trizac system (velcro DA pad, 1500 grit , 3000 grit, macine glaze, hand glaze every kind of buffing pad also a bottle of every 3M compound on the market) I need advice on the Trizac because I've never used it before. The customer wanted it scuffed and buffed and paid for materials up front. I bought Trizac because it was suppose to be the new fast way to sand and buff. Anyways, I've got any and all products at my disposal I just need some input on technique and application. So lay it on me I'm waiting.

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Old 11-09-2006, 08:07 AM
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1500 DRY with the interface pad to flatten the peel.
Wash or wipe down with the Microfiber rag. Wash is better IMO.Your call.
3000 Trizact pad DAMP on the interface pad. Use a squirt bottle with water and spritz a shot on the pad,a squirt or 2 on the area and start sanding.
You want enough water to make the pad "foam" but too much water and it just hydroplanes and won't cut.So light on the water.
3M recommends a cross sanding pattern. North-South,East-West.
The Trizact pad "should" do 1 vehicle.
The surface will look "slightly" polished after the 3000. Check for scratches with some waterbase wax & grease remover,HOK KC-20,SPI's,or a 50/50 mix of alcohol & water. Go back to the 1500 if you need to then the 3000 again.
Buffing is your call.
The idea with Trizact is to really smooth the clear and you don't need a strong compound to cut with.
Try some Perfect It III regular cut with a white waffle pad and SEE how it does. If it does not "cut" it,Go to a non twisted wool pad or go with the older Perfect It II compound.
Wash again.
Black waffle pad and the Swirl Remover.Just a small amount of this goes a long way so a couple of quarter size drops will do say,2'x2' area.
Hand Glaze. By hand of course.

Last edited by Bee4Me; 11-09-2006 at 08:12 AM.
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Old 11-09-2006, 10:05 PM
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A few questions

Thanks for info. I need afew questions answered

1. Do I or don"t I use the Perfect it III machine glaze with the 3000 pad or is it intended with a waffle pad and buffer?

2. Does "slightly polished" mean a hazy gloss that has to be buffed out to a perfect gloss or can be hand glazed from there?

3. Is a soft foam waffle pad suppose to be used as a finishing pad or is a smooth foam pad better?

4. I have every variety of 3M compounds in my shop Which one is best finishing compound? Finnese-it, Imperial microfinish. Perfect-it III macine glaze?

5. What R.P.M. is best for buffing at any stage so that I don't burn and haze my clear?

6. I've buffed some but just small spots where I fixed a run or trash, I've never done a entire vehicle. Past experiences I've had problems with haze. Any info to help me get that haze free glass look I need?
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Old 11-10-2006, 08:17 AM
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You do NOT use ANY compound with the Trizact 3000 pad!!!!!
It's like I said, a "little" water to lubricate the pad and your sanding like with any DA paper.

The clear will have a hazy,semi polished look after the Trizact. Your actually polishing more so than sanding. That IMO was 3M's answer to the crappy III compound and the newer waterbase/borne 3000 compound as the VOC police required less solvents in the compounds so IMO they just don't cut as well as the older II or the Imperial.

The white waffle pad should be marked as a "compounding" pad. There are different grades I believe but I don't have a part # for the one I use so use one for general compound work or the wool pad.

Use which ever compound works. Short answer but different jobs require different compounds which is why I have several too. The Imperial is a good compound but it's SO messy as it is more liquid than the others and slings EVERYWHERE no matter how slow you start buffing. You want a cutting compound not a glaze to start. So Finesse or the Imperial if thats all you have. The Perfect-It III extra cut would be "my" first choice after the Trizact pad and then the older II series if it won't cut it so to speak. The Imperial is just too messy and I won't use it anymore.

Speed should be between 1500-1800 to start and slower as you progress.

Haze is just not finishing the buffing out or the wrong compound and it's not cutting. Buffing is a time consuming job and it takes time to get it right. Working small areas like 2'x2' at a time does best. you need to get that shined up before moving on.

Do some searching here as there are a LOT of posts about buffing.
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Old 11-10-2006, 07:16 PM
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Im not a fan of using 1500 on a D/A when painting in a shop and not a booth.. IMO it is faster and looks better doing it wet by hand.. the 1500d/a doesnt like dust at all.. doesnt take it out easily and also pigtails alot..
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Old 11-10-2006, 07:56 PM
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I've discovered that with the d/a 1500 "pig-tailing" is caused by the sanded clear balling-up on the paper. A 3M rep. suggested I use a "white" scotch-brite to clean the d/a paper with regularly during the sanding process. This defiantly helps to stop those little deep curly-cue scratches.
I suggest when you are ready to buff, use a wool pad and Perfect it III to get out the remaining scratches at about 2500-2700 rpm. Once I'm certain Ive got all scratches out (check by cleaning with alcohol and water 50/50) then polish it with a soft pad and Finesse at 2500-2700 rpm. Then glaze over it with a dark foam waffle pad and dark foam polish at 2000-2500 rpm to remove the swirl-marks. It's no big deal you could just experiment with what you have until you get done.
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:51 PM
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