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Old 12-14-2005, 03:52 PM
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Fabricating speed and control
 
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Gittin-R-Done

Wanted to throw some pics of my suspension project up here to get some feedback. Of course I'm not finished. I'm cutting the bushing ends off the upper control arms and replacing them with 3/4' heim joints. I think I need to move the shock mount on the lower control arm out to get more of an angle. My rack should be here tomorrow so I can get it mocked up. Please let me know if you guy's see anything that needs to be improved. Oh and had to throw the Smoothie up in the back ground.














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Old 12-14-2005, 04:36 PM
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There's no real reason to angle the shock, except that, where it is now prevents you from adequately bridging the upper arm. I'd move the upper shock mount towards the center of the car far enough to allow a tube to tie together the inner end of the upper arm. The same should be done to the lower arm, of course. I'd also add some support to that long spacer on the pivot shaft for the lower arm. You need some means for camber adjustment, which would justify at least 2 Heims. Don't really need 4. Doesn't look like you've designed in any anti-dive, but that's no biggie.
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Old 12-14-2005, 04:50 PM
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Fabricating speed and control
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyShope
There's no real reason to angle the shock, except that, where it is now prevents you from adequately bridging the upper arm. I'd move the upper shock mount towards the center of the car far enough to allow a tube to tie together the inner end of the upper arm. The same should be done to the lower arm, of course. I'd also add some support to that long spacer on the pivot shaft for the lower arm. You need some means for camber adjustment, which would justify at least 2 Heims. Don't really need 4. Doesn't look like you've designed in any anti-dive, but that's no biggie.
Thanks for your input Billy

The tubing that is used to mount the upper control arm is set at a 3 degree angle. What I've read that should work don't you think? I don't believe that I can move the upper shock mount in. It's so close to my frame rail at it is. I'll check it out when I get to the shop tomorrow.
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Old 12-15-2005, 05:14 AM
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The general geometry looks good. I'm just uncomfortable that there's nothing bridging the open ends of those "U's" that are the arms. And, that longs sleeve that is also unsupported makes me uneasy. It's just a few more ounces, but it makes a big difference in whether it would survive a heavy hit AND it could greatly extend the life of the bushings and/or Heims.

Perhaps the upper shock mount could be moved up sufficiently.
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Old 12-15-2005, 07:21 AM
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I have gussets cut for all the tubing sleaves. I also will skin the upper shock mount and upper control arm mount for added support. I left them open to be able to weld the inner part. When my rack arrives, I can get it mocked up. Then I should be able to do all the final welding.

You do have a good eye Billy. Thanks for your input.

Do you think that the shock angle will be fine?
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Old 12-16-2005, 03:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ocean_toad
I also will skin the upper shock mount and upper control arm mount for added support. I left them open to be able to weld the inner part.
I wasn't referring to these, but to the upper and lower control arms. Unless the upper and lower control arms are bridged at their open ends, cornering loads will tend to spread them, reducing the service life of the bushings and/or Heims. But, the upper shock mount is in the way.

The only reason shock angle has to be addressed is in the accommodation of the shock stroke length. (Consideration must also be given to shock effectiveness. Note later comment on wheel rate.) If the shock can be mounted vertical without running out of stroke, that's fine. If it's necessary to mount it at an angle, that's also fine. But, with a coilover, you also must consider the effect an angle has on the wheel rate. The spring rate doesn't change, of course, but the wheel rate can be affected as you angle the coilover.
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Old 12-16-2005, 05:49 AM
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Here is a link to some shock calculators that will help you out.
http://www.proshocks.com/calcs/index.htm
The angle and the distance to the ball joint will affect the end spring rate. The shorter the distance to the ball stud the less spring rate you need to hold the car up. It's just a matter of leverage. I try to keep the lower shock attachment as close to the LBJ as is practical to improve the leverage ratio.
Another point to check is the actual clearance from the coil spring on the shock to the frame. I see the notch in your crossmember but the framisn't represented so check that if you decide to move the upper mount inboard.
The suspension looks like a kit. Who's did you use?
Mark
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Old 12-16-2005, 07:52 AM
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I have to move the shock mount up 1" to get the full travel of the coilover. That's my fault for putting the horse before the carriage.

The crossmember I drew in AutoCad 2000. We have a CNC plasma that cut all the sections.

Great link for the shocks Mark thanks

I received the rack yesterday so I'll be able to get more complete this weekend. I will post some more good stuff Monday for sure.

Thanks guy's

-toad
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Old 12-16-2005, 08:12 AM
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Just to give a "for instance" on what Astroracer said:

If it were possible to mount a 100 #/inch spring directly over the tire, the wheel rate would also be 100 #/inch. If you move the spring to a spot halfway between the pivot and the tire, the wheel rate would be only 25 #/inch. In other words, the effective wheel rate changes by the square of the linkage ratio. The actual distance from the spring to the pivot is measured on a line perpendicular to the spring axis.
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