[69 widetrack]

Good call Andy, you won't regret it.

Ray

[novafreek6872]

Got started... found a mouse condo under the back bumper...

[deadbodyman]

I whole heartedly agree but now your talking a weeks or months insted of days and thousands insted of hundreds if the extra time and money is ok and your gonna keep it then by all means thats the way to go.by the way hows the door seals, t-top seals and dew strips? mine are in need of replacement with the exception of the T top seals ,they're in good shape...how about the hinge pins and bushings? with these heavy doors they have to be in good shape too.if your going all the way with it..Then theres the hood and deck struts they're a;ways bad and you dont want to be carring around a stick to hold them up ,it adds up quick ...so some things are more important than perfect long lasting paint job when your on a budget so figure out your budget first and make a battle plan a simple 500.00 job can turn into a big can of worms real quick. It all depends on what you plan to do with it...Go all the way if you can and your going to keep it or sell it for top dollar (its worth it) but if your just going to drive it a while and sell it thats a whole different ball game...
Hey get a load of this....I just bought another one,its black, I'll pick it up in the morning and post some pics ....1,500.00, its another TPI tire melter. turn the key and drive away.....

[novafreek6872]

10-4 Dead... hear ya on all points. I know things can add up quick, I'm going to keep a log of all my time and materials. Mainly just need to get another paint job under my belt and more experience. Im not going to get crazy with it, going to photo document everything and materials used just in case I do decide to sell later. You got me feeling bad now, I gave $2600 for this one, maybe I screwed up. But it is 100% stock, so I guess that helps the value some. Most of these cars are butchered up in one way or another.

[69 widetrack]

I do understand what your saying, resale RED and all but...

I still think that this is the way for him to go....Take pictures of the repaint to show it was done properly. Taking it down to bare metal is more work no doubt but, the end results are much better and like I mentioned, at least he knows and the perspective new owner knows what's underneath the new paint that he spent a fair amount of money on. It's time more than cost, the difference in cost is minimal considering the result difference...Plus factoring into the equation, all the experience he's going to get.

Even if he wants to sell it...In my opinion...it is the best and surest way to get the value of the car back when it's for sale.

Your right with respect to the hood struts and pins and bushings for the doors etc...and when doing a car for resale costs are very important and a budget should be put in place...I couldn't agree more in that regard.

Post picks of your Black Camaro, love to see them.

Ray

[novafreek6872]

That reminds me, car has all new hood and hatch struts!! Hinge pins seem OK, the whole car moves when I lift the doors and I dont feel the play in the hinges that I have felt on other cars. I need to spend a little more time investigating and making sure the bushings are good. T top doesnt leak at least with a low pressure spray. New seal around rear hatch. The PO, did do alot of work to the car, mainly tune up maintenance stuff... I have a long list of fixes he did. And hes a real mechanic, not a backyard one like me...so thats a GOOD THING

[deadbodyman]

Originally Posted by novafreek6872

10-4 Dead... hear ya on all points. I know things can add up quick, I'm going to keep a log of all my time and materials. Mainly just need to get another paint job under my belt and more experience. Im not going to get crazy with it, going to photo document everything and materials used just in case I do decide to sell later. You got me feeling bad now, I gave $2600 for this one, maybe I screwed up. But it is 100% stock, so I guess that helps the value some. Most of these cars are butchered up in one way or another.

2600 isnt bad at all,look at it this way you'll send THAT on ANY run of the mill daily driver needing paint. BUTT what you have is (forget that its an Iroc) is a nice stock car with a great interior and LOW milage so ANY car with a great interior and low milage WITH a decent paint job is worth 3500 -4500 so you can saftly invest 900.00 in materials (labor is always free) and when it done you'll have made 1,000... BUT THIS is an Iroc so all done up like new it's worth at least 10,000 to the right buyer...I just saw an 89 all orig all factory with 48000 mi at a car lot for 10,000 it was garage kept and in beautiful shape. So really I dont think you can loose...if you go SPI all the way you can get all the top shelf materials well under 1,000.00 and that'll leave you with enough money left over for tape ,paper,sand paper and everything else.
PLEASE do yourself a big favor and dont skimp on the materials when your going all the way,I see this all the time ,guys strip to the metal and use cheap epoxy, cheap 2k build primer and cheap base and clear thinking thier ahead ,SPI is most defenately what you want all the way if you save a few bucks here and there its not worth it and you can spend twice as much on other top shelf products and get the same quality...I swear by SPI products and always go with them when I want the best..The two things that really stand out are the epoxy primers and the universal clear,the epoxy is simply the best hands down and the clear is every biy as good as glasurat at twice the cost it sprays the same and buffs the same looks like glass right out of the gun and buffs quick and EZ ...that alone is enough to make me a "Dead"icated customer but they have a hotline that can answear any question even a well seasond pro would ask. Every time I've called I've actually talked to the owner Barry and even after 35 yrs in the biz he makes me feel like a newb ,he's that damn smart but hes a regualar guy and NEVER makes you feel like a *******...He even called me one time when he was in my area to invite me to lunch...What a great guy....
JUST DONT PISSEM OFF ,like me, hes always packin...
....GO with SPI......

[novafreek6872]

I think he wants me to go with SPI...

I actually was planning to check into SPI availability in my area... was planning on using their clear

Ok, dead, ya talked me into it...Barry, stroke him a check... LOL

Andy

[WriterDennis]

I agree with Ray, going down to metal is the only real safe way to do it. Otherwise you really don't know what is there. If it is worth doing, it is worth doing right.

Dennis W. Parks
author of automotive how-to books

[novafreek6872]

Originally Posted by WriterDennis

I agree with Ray, going down to metal is the only real safe way to do it. Otherwise you really don't know what is there. If it is worth doing, it is worth doing right.

Dennis W. Parks
author of automotive how-to books

Yea, what the heck, its just a little car not a Greyhound bus after all. But I DO know what's there... a bunch of cracking, fading, failing paint... lol

Andy

[deadbodyman]

Yeah I kinda like the stuff a bit,but you gotta understand something....we've been gettin screwed royaly by the big boys for years, they raise the prices, it seems like every week. Barry keeps his prices as low as he possibly can and apoligizes once a year when he HAS to go up a few bucks.
Give him a call ....you'll see...I know I sound like I own stock in SPI and Ospho but I dont, I'm just a workin slob with a big mouth when it comes to my top choices......Plus I'm drinkin a few beers tonight.....
..................Mike ....

[deadbodyman]

Well ,I just picked up an 86 Iroc yesterday,the paint is in a lot worse shape so I'll be stripping it down also...This is some kind of dark metalic mabee blackmet,I'll be going straight black on this one,but firsy I gotta do a quick tune up on it...I'll be doing all the same work you are start to finish..Removing all thr rubber and plastic is the first step.

[novafreek6872]

Originally Posted by deadbodyman

Well ,I just picked up an 86 Iroc yesterday,the paint is in a lot worse shape so I'll be stripping it down also...This is some kind of dark metalic mabee blackmet,I'll be going straight black on this one,but firsy I gotta do a quick tune up on it...I'll be doing all the same work you are start to finish..Removing all thr rubber and plastic is the first step.

Dead. Whats the best way to strip the urethane?? bumpers and plastic bits?? I was thinking of buying a cheap sandblaster...bad idea?

[69 widetrack]

Hey Andy, I wouldn't buy a cheap sandblaster for cleaning rubber bumpers, although a sandblaster is never a bad idea for other parts. I've used plastic stripper, a product available from several manufacturers, I used Marhydes aerosol with good results. You could remove the paint with a DA and a light abrasive like a 280 or 320, but, be careful, plastic isn't that solid and making a mess is quite possible. Another way is brake fluid, brush it on, let it sit for a few hours, remove the paint and thoroughly wash, clean and dry your bumpers. Whenever stripping bumpers be careful, try a small unnoticeable area first, just to get the feel and effect, when comfortable move on to entire piece.

Hope this helps Andy

Ray

[69 widetrack]

Andy be careful id you try brake fluid, not all plastics react the same, try a small area on the edge first, I've used this method on hard plastics in the past with great results...caution in everything you do.