[usmc72]

Everyone has the right idea. In the past I have painted a few cars with this same problem. Sand down to the primer with 80 grit. Go back over the car with 180 grit. Be careful along the edges. Run water over the car in sections and look for any imperfections that may occur. Water will high light any imperfections or deep scratches that may show up after your base coat. Prime the car with three coats of a water base etching primer. This will take care of any spots you sanded thru to bare metal by accident. Add another coat on all the edges of every thing such as wheel wells, door jams. Think you know want I mean. By using a water base primer you will be covering the old paint and primer and should have no lift off off the old material. Water base is a God saver if you don't know what was sprayed before. Make sure you wipe down the areas you are going to primer with a good cleaner and rags. Your paint shop can recommend what to use. Once you have the primer down, you can start sanding with 320. Ask your paint shop for the product data sheets for the type of paint you are going to lay down, ei: Flssh times between coats, size of spray nozzle, ect... Each maufacturer has their requirements that need to be adhered to. Once you lay down the top coat follow the instructions for applying the clear coat. If you are spraying at home in the garage you should check with your city and find out what restrictions they may have so you don't have a nosy neighbor calling in on you. Most shops these days are going to a waterbase material due to environmental issues. It goes on thinner and will require additional coats. If you have NEVER sanded with a DA, I would recommend you block sand by hand after laying a guide coat down in getting the primer ready for your base coat. It will take a bit longer but you won't have waves were you sanding a little more than other areas. The guide coat will reveal any high or low spots you may want to take care of before the base coat. Sand in the directon of the panels. Mainly front to back, never cross hatch or sand the guide coat in anX pattern. Never sand using just your fingers either. Use a backing pad or a foam pad that will help apply even pressure. If you have any questions fell free to call me at 682-227-3095

[mr4speed]

I will add a little info here as well about the SPI epoxy. This is a real nice epoxy primer that is sandable, and is all I use now. I have just started using it as a finish blocking primer after the spray poly is done instead of the 2K urethane primers. The other thing I have noticed about it is this stuff goes a real long way . I use quite a bit of it and have not had any type of problems with it at all. Trust me you will love it. Have always used the high end PPG DPLF epoxys and wont use it any more.............................................. as a side note to USMC not real sure what you mean by never sand in an x pattern when blocking, that is the ONLY way you should be blocking in.

[69 widetrack]

Originally Posted by mr4speed

I will add a little info here as well about the SPI epoxy. This is a real nice epoxy primer that is sandable, and is all I use now. I have just started using it as a finish blocking primer after the spray poly is done instead of the 2K urethane primers. The other thing I have noticed about it is this stuff goes a real long way . I use quite a bit of it and have not had any type of problems with it at all. Trust me you will love it. Have always used the high end PPG DPLF epoxys and wont use it any more.............................................. as a side note to USMC not real sure what you mean by never sand in an x pattern when blocking, that is the ONLY way you should be blocking in.

Just read the last few posts...I agree with Mr.4speed...always sand in an X pattern, it's the proper way to level a high or low spot. Not only will you get rid of the spot, it will sand faster when you keep sanding against the grain. I usely sand in one direction for about 8 to 10 strokes and then reverse my pattern in an X pattern right across the entire panel to make sure the panel stays and or gets straight removing all highs and lows.

[mr4speed]

The other thing to remember is most panels have a slight bow to them and are not as flat as they may seem. So in order to keep your flat block against a bowed panel you must sand in an x pattern to maintain a flat blocking of the panel.

[69 widetrack]

If i can add this as well, when blocking, minimal pressure on the block...let the sand paper do the work...I always tell people that their block isn't an eraser, it's made to get the panel straight.

Ray

[novafreek6872]

Thanks guys... good info. Worked on it for 8 hours today... didnt get alot done but I did manage to get the nose section sanded down and ready for epoxy. I worked on a fender and a door too... I think now that I am just going to strip the top surfaces of the car to metal and sand the sides down to the factory primer with my orbital leaving a 220 scratch...then epoxy over everything... Car definitely has just the factory paint on it. Let me know if thats a dumb idea.

Car is in the garage now, safe and dry...

[69 widetrack]

Hi Andy on the bumpers I'd say OK, leave the factory primer on, but remove as much as possible. if your using 220, try even a 320 (I know it will take longer but it's worth it) that way you won't cut into the plastic and you can always block out the primer to get it straight. The rest of the car I would take down to bare metal and you can use a more aggressive media like 80 grit. In a case where the paint is peeling the integrity of the original primer is in question as well as the top coat (Material is 25 years old) I would without a doubt strip it all to bare metal.

Ray

[deadbodyman]

Originally Posted by novafreek6872

Dead. Whats the best way to strip the urethane?? bumpers and plastic bits?? I was thinking of buying a cheap sandblaster...bad idea?

Thats a hard call without seeing it up close .On most cars I wont even try to strp a plastic cover because a new one is only 1=200 bucks so it costs twice as much to strip then replace.Both of mine are in terrible shape the red one has a ton of cheap paint on them but are in good shape and the black ones are worse with tears so I'll be looking at replacing them unless they are to expensive...In that case I'll try the plactic stripper first but have little confidence in them ,I used them before and they didnt work well at all,if thats still the case I'll be sanding it off. Yours may be a lot easier being orig.and the stripper may work well so try that first and see..

[novafreek6872]

Ok, Im just going to sand the bumpers and scuff the ground effects because the paint on them is in great shape... I'll take the panels where the clear was compromised down to the metal.

[usmc72]

When I said do not block sand in an X pattern it was meant for the final sanding with the 600 to 800 grit paper. You should already have a good surface from sanding in an X pattern on the 80 or 180 grit paper during your prep stage before you switch to the higher grits. Sand with the direction of the car on your higher number grits. Always refer to the product data sheets for the final grit sanding. You can never go wrong if you follow their sheets

[novafreek6872]

Been workin' on the car... still a long way off from epoxy prime, but working a few hours each day... most of the dissassembly is done, just need to get the driver side GFX off... GM put some tough paint on this car, the areas where I am going to metal are taking a while w/ 40/80 on my DA. I snapped some pics... but nothing is done...Ive been skipping around a bit

IROC pictures by andyspaintshop - Photobucket

[69 widetrack]

Your getting there Andy, I saw that you took the door handle off on the passenger side, I couldn't make out if you took it of on the driver's side. Have you found anything in the way of previous repairs or anything? Looks good...won't be long now.

[novafreek6872]

Originally Posted by 69 widetrack

Your getting there Andy, I saw that you took the door handle off on the passenger side, I couldn't make out if you took it of on the driver's side. Have you found anything in the way of previous repairs or anything? Looks good...won't be long now.

Thanks Ray.

I have the pass side tore down pretty good... driver side needs handle, mirror, GFX taken off...Ive been skipping around a little to keep things interesting.

Only thing I have found repair wise seem to be the nose...it appears at least to me that the orig nose got crunched and they replaced it with a blue one...Im seeing layers of bright blue paint after sanding...they did a good job because theres no flaking and the fenders seem to have been unharmed.

I'm just taking my time...no need to rush anything... I do want to get it in epoxy quickly so I can get nova #2 back inside.

[69 widetrack]

It all looks good Andy, it's great to hear that you haven't found any major previous damage...that's going to save you time and money...Also glad to hear that your not rushing it and taking lots of pictures, going to help the resale if that's the route you go.

Bumpers are usually the first thing to get hit...that's why they call them bumpers I guess...all good though.

I know even when I do a customer's car and spend a lot of time on it, the hardest thing to do is give him the keys.

Ray

[novafreek6872]

Tonight I got the GFX off the driver side and the door handle and lock cylinder out, also mirror off. Got the window sweep off the driver door, which is a little tedious on these things, only b/c i needed a 7mm box end wrench and dont have one. I managed ok with a socket in a small vise grip...tight squeeze.

BIG box came from Summit today!! Two new dura blocks (11", 4"), rolls of 180 and 320 sticky back paper , scuff pads red and grey, green 3m tape, a Gal. 1:1 epoxy primer and catalyst and a Gal. High Solids clear/activator/reducer, quart of lightweight filler. Still need the base coat which will probably be Chroma Base. Other than some 500 paper and maybe some more paper for colorsanding...I should have everything covered material wise.

Couldnt resist doing some blocking with the 180 and my new blocks on a couple sections...WOW. Well worth it and I wished I had used the sticky stuff on my Nova! MUCH EASIER! I might add that the $17 a roll paper from Summit is GREAT! Made in germany stamped on the back of it too.

Also did some more paint stripping with 80 on my DA in "GRINDER MODE" and then while my comp was pumping up I would hit the same area with 80 on my dewalt orbital sander, worked good because I was always busy...not waiting, and gave my comp a break. I have a 60 gallon 220v plus a 20 gal. auxilary tank btw.

Won't be long now till I'm spraying Epoxy on this thing...hoping for a few warm days coming soon.

Drove the Nova to work today...