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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 11-14-2012, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by novafreek6872 View Post
BIG box came from Summit today!! Two new dura blocks (11", 4"), rolls of 180 and 320 sticky back paper , scuff pads red and grey, green 3m tape, a Gal. 1:1 epoxy primer and catalyst and a Gal. High Solids clear/activator/reducer, quart of lightweight filler. Still need the base coat which will probably be Chroma Base. Other than some 500 paper and maybe some more paper for colorsanding...I should have everything covered material wise.

Your making me jealous with your big box from Summit! I'll be painting my '68 Galaxie this spring and I've already started the tear down and prep. Can't wait to place my order.

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 11-14-2012, 09:50 PM
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Its amazing how you can order a big heavy box of hazardous chemicals and they only charge $12 shipping, and it gets here in 2 days!!

68 Galaxie huh, thats a Biggun :-) Is it the fastback model? I always liked the fastback torinos of that era...very cool
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2012, 07:26 AM
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Your showing me up man...I havent even put my tune up parts in yet.
but today I'll start cutting and buffing the big Duramax truck in the shop then I'll have a free bay again...I got the black base and SPI clear and epoxy and bondo just need a little time.
What kind of shape are those sweeps in ?I'll have to replace mine on both cars...any idea where you'll be getting the Iroc decals and other parts ? Finding the bumper covers is going to be quite a bit harder than I thought.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2012, 11:25 AM
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Your showing me up man...I havent even put my tune up parts in yet.
but today I'll start cutting and buffing the big Duramax truck in the shop then I'll have a free bay again...I got the black base and SPI clear and epoxy and bondo just need a little time.
What kind of shape are those sweeps in ?I'll have to replace mine on both cars...any idea where you'll be getting the Iroc decals and other parts ? Finding the bumper covers is going to be quite a bit harder than I thought.

Hi dead, good to hear from you on this again. My sweeps are toast, but I read that new ones are avail for about $25 each. I'm pretty sure someone had the IROC decals and the black and silver stripes in a package deal for $120. Ebay has some cheap IROC decals, but I don't think they have the correct look.

I'm glad my covers are in good shape!!

LOVE my new durablocks... gonna make sanding this thing a breeze when I get the epoxy on. I did notice my 11" block has a very slight curve... is this going to be an issue? I have a joiner for woodworking and was contemplating running the block thru a couple time to get it perfectly flat. Bad idea?

The two blocks I got are the top two in the pic.

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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2012, 11:31 AM
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Actually just looked on ebay and there may be some more options on the decals... that look right and are alot cheaper. I even considered painting on the black and silver stripes when I'm in basecoat and clearing over them...
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2012, 12:04 PM
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Yes Andy the curve could be an issue...if you can run the block through without damaging it, that may be a good idea.
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Old 11-15-2012, 05:07 PM
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Yes Andy the curve could be an issue...if you can run the block through without damaging it, that may be a good idea.
Im thinking what I might need to do is put it between two flat boards and put a heavy weight on top. The joiner will tear up the smooth rubber. Or maybe clamp it in my large vise between two boards for a few days even better.

Got the driver side of the car 95% ready for epoxy primer tonight, pass side needs work on quarter and fender, all top surfaces still need stripping.

This is funny, tonight I noticed the tires on the back say WIDETRACK something on them...must be fate
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2012, 05:15 PM
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I don't know what your joiner looks like or how it works but if it's going to rip up the surface....not a good idea. I made my blocks from billet aluminum and milled them flat and smooth, then used my Hutchin's handles on them...you could drive over the things and wouldn't hurt them.

The tops are easier, not as many little nooks and crannies to get into, it should go quicker now.

WIDETRACK tires? who makes those?
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2012, 05:24 PM
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Not sure... all they say is WIDETRACK SR on them. I went ahead and clamped the block in my vise between two boards, I'll just leave it in the till Im ready to sand the epoxy.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2012, 05:35 PM
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Are the boards straight like pieces of 2X4's? That's why I made my own, had them for many many years and still hold their straight shape. I once had a 3M hard board that had a warp (3M Rep was going to toss it so I got it for free) in it and clamped a piece of steel on it and threw it in the oven for 45 minutes at 180 degrees...worked great...I don't know what yours are made of but it might be worth a try if what your doing now dosn't solve the problem.
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by novafreek6872 View Post
Im thinking what I might need to do is put it between two flat boards and put a heavy weight on top. The joiner will tear up the smooth rubber. Or maybe clamp it in my large vise between two boards for a few days even better.

Got the driver side of the car 95% ready for epoxy primer tonight, pass side needs work on quarter and fender, all top surfaces still need stripping.

This is funny, tonight I noticed the tires on the back say WIDETRACK something on them...must be fate
That block isnt much use for grtting stuf straight,save it for rounded stuff or get some contact cement and glue a 1/4" piece of oak to top of it to make it straight ,What you really need is a stiff ,long block it has an aluminum base and a wooden handle..I hardly ever use my long dura block.The one I cant live without is the long skinny one.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2012, 07:21 AM
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That block isnt much use for grtting stuf straight,save it for rounded stuff or get some contact cement and glue a 1/4" piece of oak to top of it to make it straight ,What you really need is a stiff ,long block it has an aluminum base and a wooden handle..I hardly ever use my long dura block.The one I cant live without is the long skinny one.
Dead is right...I use my 16 1/2 by 2 3/4 inch long board more than any other tool for getting a car straight...with the sheet roll system you can get any grit you want for body work or finish sanding in dry paper. I don't know about you dead but I haven't used my air board since I stopped working flat rate, even then I trusted my long hand board more, a lot lighter so less pressure on the panel and no noise to speak of.

Ray
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:35 AM
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That block isnt much use for grtting stuf straight,save it for rounded stuff or get some contact cement and glue a 1/4" piece of oak to top of it to make it straight ,What you really need is a stiff ,long block it has an aluminum base and a wooden handle..I hardly ever use my long dura block.The one I cant live without is the long skinny one.
Great tip.. I have some oak flooring that is flat... Will do
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:19 AM
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Dead is right...I use my 16 1/2 by 2 3/4 inch long board more than any other tool for getting a car straight...with the sheet roll system you can get any grit you want for body work or finish sanding in dry paper. I don't know about you dead but I haven't used my air board since I stopped working flat rate, even then I trusted my long hand board more, a lot lighter so less pressure on the panel and no noise to speak of.

Ray
I still have my air board but rarly use because I start sanding my bondo before it gets hard by hand but occationally, on a big panel I cant move fast enough and the filler gets hard so I have to break it out.pretty much ALL my filler sanding is done by hand too..
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:44 AM
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I still have my air board but rarly use because I start sanding my bondo before it gets hard by hand but occationally, on a big panel I cant move fast enough and the filler gets hard so I have to break it out.pretty much ALL my filler sanding is done by hand too..
Good post Dead, shape the filler first and use the long board to get it straight. It's funny you should bring that up this morning. Yesterday a customer of mine phoned me to tell me he bought a 1922 Ford Hack ( you know, all wood from the frame up) and in the pile of parts he found an air board still in the box and wanted to sell it to me. I turned him down because I already have one I don't use.

I explained to him why I didn't want the air board and he asked if he could use it on wood (some of the Oak pieces are 10 feet long). We stuck on a 180 grit strip and tried it...It was excellent for what he was doing, 2 inch thick Oak isn't going to buckle under pressure and being perfectly straight wasn't the order of the day in 1922. So there you go, an air board used for finish sanding on a 22 Ford. Who would have thunk it.

He's a mill rite from way back and really good with wood. I got the job of doing the drive train, frame, fenders hood, basically everything that needs to be painted black....not a whole pile of painting on this one. Believe it, this vehicle still has a lot of the original wood and it's in amazing condition, even the spokes on the wheels look mint, original seats with minimal wear and not a rip. This was a true estate sale barn find.

Just thought I'd share the air board story.

Ray
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