[deadbodyman]

That sounds like an orbital air file which are the best kind if you ask me ....I do a lot of wood working and and you can use many auto body tools ...I used my 8" mud hog to when my planer was down to level a mohogany coffe table ,I couldnt believe how well and fast it leveled the top with 80 grit..then I sprayed it with automotive clear It looks fantastic....I even fooled around with tinting the clear with candies on curly maple...WOW that was cool lookin

[69 widetrack]

I know what you mean, I did my Maple kitchen table about 20 years ago with my DA and used over reduced base coat for stain, not that I didn't want to buy stain, just wanted to see if it worked and figured I'd be safe using base instead of stain not knowing how wood stain would react with clear, then cleared it with automotive clear, cut and polished it. Looks great even today.

[novafreek6872]

OK, while you guys are goofing off and painting kitchen tables, Ive been working on my car!!! LOL

I've cleaned the whole car, finished up scuffing a few areas, and am masking off the windows now.

Its nice and warm in the garage, all those light really help, and around mid 50's outside. The car has been inside since yesterday.

Have to run to HF in a few to get a new respirator and hopefully find a bigger cup for my gravity gun, they show one online. Also some tack rags...then I should be spraying epoxy around 3 or 4 pm.

Report back later

[novafreek6872]

47 hours in it so far. Epoxy primed 2 wet coats. I must be a really slow worker, because somebody said I could strip it in a day!! 24 hours just this weekend working on it. (LOTS of coffee) Can't wait to go to my real job tomorrow, so I can chill out!

[deadbodyman]

Jeezus,You stripped the whols car already??? AND epoxied it!!!! Holly sheet Batman..The son of a gun looks good too ...it dosent look like theres much bodywrk to do...So whats next? guide coat and block with 180 ????

[novafreek6872]

I actually only stripped the panels and parts of panels with the bad paint. Roughly 65 - 75% of the car. The other parts were sanded with 220. I need to touch up a little filler work and block everything out. Is 320 too fine if I am planning to put high build on next?

I also need to fix some spider cracks in the front bumper, thinking of skimming on some flexible filler. Sound OK?

I'm really slow, I've just been working on it alot.

[69 widetrack]

If your going from primer right to base, I'd use 320 and go over it with 400, the 400 is insurance because depending on product, not all 320 grits are the same. Some people may tell you to block it with 180 for ease of blocking and then hit it with 320 or 400. If that's what you do you're trying to eliminate 180 scratches with to fine a paper and the chance of the 180 scratch showing up in your base id very possible. I'm interested to see what other's say.

Ray

[novafreek6872]

Ray, I'm thinking guide coat and 320 block everything, do my touch ups and spot prime what I need to. Then I'll go over everything again with 400 and 600 on a soft block.

I definitely need more coats on the hood b/c I can see some places that arent built up enough. Its possible I can epoxy everything and not need the 2k at all. Car is awfully straight.

[69 widetrack]

Yes, I know I don't need to say this but I will anyway...just be sure you block it no matter how straight it looks, if you block with 320 then a quick guide coat in between the 400...and go over it again with a soft block with 600 you should be OK. The reason I say guide coat in between 320 and 400 is to get rid of the 320 scratches, you'll see what I mean when you do it.

Is this the epoxy you used on your Nova???and you mentioned it sands well?

Ray

[novafreek6872]

Yea, its the same stuff, just grey and not black. Believe me, I don't mind all the blocking, I actually kinda enjoy it... I guess I'm wierd like that. :-)

What about the fine cracks in the front urethane nose? Can I just skim it over with flexible filler or do I need to get more extreme with it? The chances of finding another nose in better shape are pretty slim

[malc]

HawksThirdGenParts.com have front covers used and new.

Here´s some rust issues I had.



I had replacement doors from GMSports shipped over by PowerrodsMike.

Here´s mine in the booth, looks professional but turned out to be the worst paint job........

[novafreek6872]

Ouch! Luckily my jambs are clean from rust. Really the only rust I have found has been the battery tray (Thats a given on a 25 yo car) and a very light amount on the inside bottom of the driver door.

[69 widetrack]

Originally Posted by novafreek6872

Yea, its the same stuff, just grey and not black. Believe me, I don't mind all the blocking, I actually kinda enjoy it... I guess I'm wierd like that. :-)

What about the fine cracks in the front urethane nose? Can I just skim it over with flexible filler or do I need to get more extreme with it? The chances of finding another nose in better shape are pretty slim

Depending on how fine the cracks are,and are they cracks in the existing paint or the bumper cover and what kind of flexible filler...What where you planning on using?

[novafreek6872]

Ray,

They are super fine cracks in the existing paint, like maybe the thickness of a sheet of paper or less. Maybe some 1k spot putty and then more epoxy? I tried to sand them out, but I didnt get down that deep. When I sprayed my epoxy on, I noticed immediately that it didnt want to fill them for some reason, like it drew away from them.

For that reason, I really only have like 1 coat of epoxy on the nose, I didnt want to keep piling it on and then have to sand it all back off, because I wasnt sure what the fix would be.

[novafreek6872]

Ray, I actually have some evercoat glazing putty... would that work?