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Glass cleaner after wax and grease remover?
Is it a good idea to use an aerosol glass cleaner after having used wax and grease remover on the surface?, I have read this in a book but I don't know if it really is a good idea or not, the book is kinda old so it makes me wonder.
It sure seems easier to spray some of this and just wipe it off the surface, instead of the way we're supposed to use wax and grease remover, one hand wet the other hand dry so to speak. Any input would be greatly apreciated. |
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A 50/50 mix of water and alcohol is what you want instead of "Windex".
It's not necessary really,As the G&R will do the job. I use it in a spray bottle to apply and wipe down with a clean rag. Main thing is to allow enough time for the G&R to evaporate before paint. Some take quite awhile to fully evaporate and can allow the residual to effect the paint. Depending on ambient temp. I will give it 30 min. to an hour before tacking,then paint. The 50/50 is for a wipe down between color sanding residue removal to see how your progressing. The alcohol will evaporate the water faster is it's main function. Yes, It will "cut" some grime but I would not rely on it specifically to do the job. |
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A good friend of mine has been using an aresol window cleaner as a prepaint cleaner for years- he swears by it. And I see no problems with his paint work so it must be OK. He did say stay away from any cleaners that contain ammonia though. Water and alcohol are the main ingredients like Mike suggested- and in a spray bottle they'd work the same I'm sure.
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Look at the Precleaning Video at this link:
http://www.paintucation.com/tiparchive.htm Kevin Tetz is an alright fella: http://www.paintucation.com/ http://www.leopardsystems.com/paintucationforum/ |
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I know , , I know ,, but I just won't budge on this.
In my opinion its a real good idea to use the glass cleaner after the "wax and grease remover' this way you'll pick up the problems that wax and grease removers can cause... Just think if there was no such product As "Wax and Grease Remover" Somehow ...some way... we would still paint with out it... The sometimes less you do to it the better it'll be.. Ajax with Water... rinse ...dry air ... light tack ..spray paint The enemy of good is better Check the related thread links at the bottom left
Last edited by milo; 07-29-2005 at 11:13 PM. |
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If we didn't have wax and grease remover we'd use good ol mineral sprits or enamel reducer.
Ajax? ***???? |
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Any of the above procedures and solvents will work and work good if done carefully. So chose your system and perfect it.
Also a comment was made about ammonia. There is no better cleaner for items such as silicone. However you never want to use on Plexiglas as the glass will start fogging down the road. |
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Most problems with wax and grease removers are a result of
wrong application. You have to wipe it off while it's still wet with a "clean" towel, not one that you have already used before. Sometimes you have to use several clean towels, Remember that you're picking up the contaminates with the towel and once it's "dirty" all you are doing is spreading the dirt all over the panel. the towel will look clean of course but it's contaminated. Wipe it a couple of times using a clean one each time. Also allow extra time for it to evaporate, more than just when it appears dry. |
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And,
Sometimes you don't want to get something that wet before painting. I have not used Ajax myself but use Bon-Ami, Guess it's about the same thing. It has no Phosphates or Chlorine and does a great job.It's just that sometimes, I don't want too or can't wash it down and a GOOD G&WR save's the day. I use G&WR for a final wipe down for a last chance swipe at finger prints,ect. before tac & paint. Also, can show some sand scratch's you missed. It's a must doing graphics to either remove a mistake or excessive overspray. Also, as a "finished" product effect on paint as it mimics clear coat fairly well. |
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just a question, why is it considered a no-no to use laquer thiner? comparing it to the others listed above, will it work?
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Thanks to all
Thanks a lot for all your valuable input guys, now I have a better understanding of what I need to do in order to have a surface as clean as possible before I even think about picking up the spray gun.
What's a G&WR by the way, I still have no clue what Bee4Me means by that, could anyone enlighten me about it =) ? |
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i always wipe down primered surfaces with W&G. airbrush work with mineral spirits. sanded clearcoat i wipe down with laquer thinner but it seems this really depends on the clearcoat you are using. barrys stuff i can blocksand down in 4 hours and wipe with laquer thinner and not worry about it tearing it up. other clearcoats might not be so resistant to the solvents and wrinkle especially if fresh. by the way, barry, i started doing this after the hand prints on that black vette. i recently got some of hok's post sanding cleaner. very interesting stuff. its waterbase and has almost a soapy effect on the surface. in the dozen or so times i have used it, i am really impressed. it removes dirt and marks that W&G wont. on an occasion if something is really stubborn i will still use laquer thinner but not too often now.
G&WR = grease and wax remover. i think bee switched it around to keep you on your toes. |
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